• Welcome to the Yamaha FZ6 Forums. Member registration disables ads and allows you to post and share. Register Here.

Takes a while to start.

slapiukas

New Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2024
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Lithuania
Visit site
Hello guys, 3 weeks ago,i passed a bike license, and got myself fz6 naked s1, bike runs fine, but i have issues starting it, things i have done to it:
Changed air filter (I put airbox back in place correctly, had same issue before replacement), oil and oil filter, spark plugs to ngk cr9ek.
Alright so going back to the problem, on cold start it starts pretty much immediately, so i let bike to warm up, shut it off, and try starting back again it starts with barely any starter movement, but if stays off for like 10-15mins, u need to crank the starter for like 2-4 seconds, my coworker has same exact bike, he doesnt have this issue, it cranks almost instantly every time.
My battery voltage is 12.7
idle speed set at 1300 rpms
What should i look at? Is there a chance that there's a leak somewhere in fuel system and fuel goes back to tank or something?
 
Mine started acting up not starting when warm when my fuel pump was going at about 20k miles on my 06.
What year and miles is yours at?
 
Based on my experience, you may want to start shopping. You may have time and someone else may have a better insight on this. Have a tow contact ready if you keep riding out in the meantime.
 
As Bryan mentioned, it could be the fuel pump or simply the fuel screen is clogged. A bike with 26k miles is due for a valve adjustment...and out of spec valves could very likely be the issue. As the engine warms up, the valve lash closes up.
 
I can't say. I had a shop do mine years ago because I didn't know what the issue was then and it was before I thought to seek out forums. The owner told me that many if not all aftermarket pumps still need to be installed into the housing. The housing includes the gauge system, regulator, and I forget what else. In fact, it's probably actually the regulator part of the assembly going from what I remember. OEM will come with the housing making for an easier swap.
If you were to find one Ebay, it may very well have the same issue due to age. I think age was more the problem than miles. My bike was about 14 years old then with about 20k miles. Now 4 years later I have a little over 50k miles on it and the pump is fine.
 
I can't say.
Bryan,

No need to guess or speculate - there are plenty of people that participate in the forum that have first hand knowledge (btw, the regulator can be found on the fuel rail).

slapiukas - if you search on this forum you will find both successful and less than successful applications of aftermarket fuel pumps. There is some risk with using an aftermarket pump as there can be variations of the same part number. Of course an OEM replacement will always work right out of the box - but at a cost.

Before you start throwing parts at the bike, I would check the valve lash. It has to be done anyway, and the problem you describe could be due to tight valves. Also, it wouldn't hurt to inspect the fuel pump screen for debris.
 
Bryan,

No need to guess or speculate - there are plenty of people that participate in the forum that have first hand knowledge (btw, the regulator can be found on the fuel rail).

slapiukas - if you search on this forum you will find both successful and less than successful applications of aftermarket fuel pumps. There is some risk with using an aftermarket pump as there can be variations of the same part number. Of course an OEM replacement will always work right out of the box - but at a cost.

Before you start throwing parts at the bike, I would check the valve lash. It has to be done anyway, and the problem you describe could be due to tight valves. Also, it wouldn't hurt to inspect the fuel pump screen for debris.
Yes, there are plenty of other's experiences. Good to point that out.
I was personally replying that I can't say because my experience on this was as I stated, and as you stated on the differences between various aftermarkets, even between themselves, and OEM. I just went with OEM.which cost $400 not including the labor because I didn't even do the swap myself then.
Knowing what I know now I could and may even try an aftermarket, but I would do better research on them than just Amazon.
 
Back
Top