Subframe removal tips

[lawlberg]

So - my subframe bolts (you know, those tricky torx ones) don't want to work with me and I'm worried I'll strip them out. (very shallow).

Two questions:
1 - any good tips on removing them (in rather cold weather) would be greatly appreciated


2 - Once I get them out, I'll probably swap them with bolts that have deeper heads, does anyone know the pitch/size/thread specs on them?


(oh, and PS. not taking them off because of a bent subframe, bike is fine, she's just getting a little intensive cleaning and custom paint on the subframe/shock)

 

[FinalImpact]

So - my subframe bolts (you know, those tricky torx ones) don't want to work with me and I'm worried I'll strip them out. (very shallow).

Two questions:
1 - any good tips on removing them (in rather cold weather) would be greatly appreciated


2 - Once I get them out, I'll probably swap them with bolts that have deeper heads, does anyone know the pitch/size/thread specs on them?


(oh, and PS. not taking them off because of a bent subframe, bike is fine, she's just getting a little intensive cleaning and custom paint on the subframe/shock)

^^ Good to know! (bold)

Start with a new tip or grind the one you have flat. Also, sometimes the shank gets wider as it gets away from the tip, so grinding it back can help in two ways. DO NOT HEAT THE TIP making it black/blue/red. Its heat treated and this will soften it. So if you heat it enough to burn your hand, that's too hot.

Don't they have nuts behind them you can just loosen? I guess I've never paid much attention.

This is case where I would NOT STRIKE the bolt to lossen it. Cast frame does not like this! So, proper tool with good fit, and apply torque.

 

[motojoe122]

PB Blaster.....best stuff ever made:thumbup:

 

[lawlberg]

^^ Good to know! (bold)

Start with a new tip or grind the one you have flat. Also, sometimes the shank gets wider as it gets away from the tip, so grinding it back can help in two ways. DO NOT HEAT THE TIP making it black/blue/red. Its heat treated and this will soften it. So if you heat it enough to burn your hand, that's too hot.

Don't they have nuts behind them you can just loosen? I guess I've never paid much attention.

This is case where I would NOT STRIKE the bolt to lossen it. Cast frame does not like this! So, proper tool with good fit, and apply torque.

I don't think there are nuts on the back. I'll grab some PB Blaster and a new set of torx sockets and have a go at it this weekend. Would heating it up (heat gun) help at all or would that do the opposite?

 

[FinalImpact]

I don't think there are nuts on the back. I'll grab some PB Blaster and a new set of torx sockets and have a go at it this weekend. Would heating it up (heat gun) help at all or would that do the opposite?

Heat always helps even if up to 3 - 400°F . Paint will suffer if you get much above 250F depending on what the source is (open flame etc). My concern here is this cast frame. Seeing them crack for *what ever* reason, I'd try to avoid a direct torch assault. If you really hate those fasteners that much, a good drill will lay them to rest but I can't image they are stuck in a manor that you need to resort to that.

I know this can break tips, but if say its in a 3/8" ratchet, a swift smack to the ratchet handle usually breaks things free. So its that or brute strength!

 

[lawlberg]

I think once I use better torx socket drives (had been trying a torx allen type wrench to no avail) I should be okay.

 

[turbid]

Lawlberg. there are nuts on the back, and they are not welded. so you have to get a long nose plier or a small grip vice and work in the tiny space to hold the nuts solid. then either have a friend to untighten the bolts or try to do it with the other hand... it s not an easy task. i had to tighten mine as it got loose somehow and it was not a fun job. get a good torx bit or you will not have much luck with other methods plus you risk doing more damage to the frame and tank.

 

[lawlberg]

Found the nuts - there's 4 bolts and 2 nuts (Nuts are on the top two mounting points on the longer bolts - which makes perfect sense).

Got them all out easily with a good set of half inch drive torx drivers. Subframe is almost all the way off - took the bottom shock bolt out and I'm working at threading the rest of the wiring harness back through (looks like I'll have to get a security torx bit for the underseat storage - pain in the bum.

 

[bigborer]

Has anyone put a S2 subframe on a S1 frame? Will I have any "surprises"?

I got the parts and I'll be doing the swap as the rear pegs sit lower on the S2 model.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Has anyone put a S2 subframe on a S1 frame? Will I have any "surprises"?

I got the parts and I'll be doing the swap as the rear pegs sit lower on the S2 model.

Shouldn't be an issue..