Rear shock alternatives; How to install R1 Shock w/pic

FinalImpact

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This has been done before but most chop up the hugger and under seat storage area to fit this shock to the bike. I did not wish to chop on mine as I need the storage and the hugger keeps debris off the shocks stem so it will last longer and not tear up the seal from debris being thrown at it. Out of pocket expense was $260. Modifications to the FZ are NOT invasive and can be undone. Plastic is the only thing trimmed out of the way for adjusting the compression and rebound. The shock bolts on once the upper bushing is replaced and is about ½ the cost of an Ohlins or other after market replacements unless you find them used. The catch; "for best performance" you need someone to take the shock apart and valve it for your needs and install an after market preload adjuster. This is NOT Required but Highly recommended!!!
If you spin the shock around as I have done here, you retain all of the under-seat storage. The bike will look stock except the added nitrogen reservoir on the shock.

Me, I'm 205Lbs w/gear, ride aggressively in the corners and have R6 forks. Also I seldom ride 2 up or longer than 300 miles. I like my suspension FIRM but in contact with the road at all times. The Stock shock was on setting #5 and yielded 29mm of sag. So I kept my OEM spring and installed it on the R1 Shock. With the adjusting collar, the SAG was returned to 29mm which is good for me. You can not use the Yellow R1 spring its rates are to light. You can use your stock spring or you could use an after market spring. This is where a choice must be made as the installed SPRING HEIGHT for the R1 and the FZ6 is not the same. The "installed height" (space where the springs sits), must be returned to the same height the FZ shock body was at or your SAG will be altered.
Options: Modify the R1 pre-load adjuster, Replace pre-load adjuster, install a custom spring, or for some, use as is. i.e install FZ spring on R1 shock - FZ6 setting #7 is equivalent to R1 Setting #1!

I went with an after market adjuster and installed the FZ OEM spring. However, this requires the shock be taken apart. We can discuss other options if someone does not wish to take the shock apart. Results may vary.

PAID LABOR:
Suspension person to revalve shock, fresh oil, fresh notrogen charge, install preload adjuster, install FZ6 Spring. My cost was $170
Your Labor:
Remove old shock, install replacement shock. Also, R&R tank, hugger, seat, etc.

Parts:
R1 coil over shock w/vertical reservoir 2001-2004 top/FZ6 bottom
SSC_566WEB_zpsa36766d1.jpg

IMG_20130608_105036_zpsb806d07e.jpg


30mm M6 X 1 bolt X2
20mm M6 X 1 bolt X2
Blue Loctite for these bolts
20mm spacer X2
12mm spacer X2
Large Zip ties to hold wire loom

Shock bushing P/N 34L-22216-00-00 ((Need a press to install this))
Shock Preload Adjuster Collars R1, RaceTech SYPA S4001 <<MUST TAKE SHOCK APART TO INSTALL!!!!
racetech1web.jpg



Shock bearing P/N 93315-31758 NOT Required unless yours are bad!!
Shock bearing seals P/N 93109-17071 NOT Required unless you replace 93315-31758

Tools:
Sockets, extensions, box wrench, screw driver
Drill & bits, sharp knife for plastic trimming / side cutters
Press to install upper bushing // mandrels for shock body-bushing
File - large
**

To begin; remove the seat, rear pods, fuel tank and disconnect the battery. Remove Rear hugger. This is up to you, but the under seat tray can be left or you can remove it. It's much easier if out of the way, but I suspect the work can be done with it in place. Its your call. Remove the ECM and Regulator Rectifier mounting pan.


To spin the shock around and retain under seat storage, RAISE the ECM tray!
Here you can see the shock will not fit until the tray is raised. Once done, all is well.
_DSC5627WEB_zps4e232d30.jpg


The shocks compression adjuster will hit the Regulator Rectifier so it needs moved just a little. Shave off the tab on the mounting tray and drill some new holes moving it over and forward as far as possible.
_DSC5700WEB_zpsc60bd003.jpg


Also, bolt it on the proper direction, It be backwards in that shot!
_DSC5704web.jpg


Add a spacers to ECM tray:
Add 20mm spacers to the rear and 12mm spacer to the front of the pan. Install new longer bolts through pan and spacers with Loctite on the bolts. This will allow the shock reservoir to tuck nicely under the pan and still allow clearance of hoses and wires under the fuel tank. I unbolted the ECM, just to make it easier.
DSC_5705web.jpg

DSC_5711web.jpg


When the pan goes up, it hits the rear brake resivour. Unbolt it and bend the tab out slightly. Install resivour.
DSC_5707web.jpg


There is one tab for the ECM loom which needs bent. Bend tab so it does not contact shock or abraid wire loom.
DSC_5708web.jpg



Install and connect the ECM and RR. Work under the tank and seat is complete.
DSC_5710web.jpg


I have no pictures, but you need to press out the TOP BUSHING and replace it with PN: 34L-22216-00-00, as the R1 uses a smaller bolt.
Install RaceTech SYPA S4001 (must take shock APART) and FZ6 spring. NOTE: I paid someone to do this as I lack the proper tools. While the shock is apart; i'd suggest you have it revalved to center the rebound adjustment and tailor this shock to our bike. Remember the R1 uses linkage thus the metering to control motion has a different requirement.

Installed:
When fitting the shock, use the longer machined shaft from the FZ6 lower bearing. Grease it, inspect the bearings and install the shaft and bolt.
IMG_20130329_142736_789WEB_zps6752db4f.jpg

IMG_20130329_142723_583WEB_zps9d0df3f2.jpg



Before making this write up I did some PRELIMINARY TESTING:
Notice in this shot there is no adjustable preload collar on. This was the preliminary testing. Here I removed part of the adjusting collar, filed off the first ramp in an atempt to NOT disassemble the shock (PAY SOMEONE) and see if the R1 valving will meet my needs as is. The test was successful, but I ground off too much and the preload was lower than expected as the bike was now an inch lower! i.e SAG went way up!!!
From this test I found the R1 shock rebound was nearly maxed out to control the rebound. Fully seated is MAX rebound damping and I had it at 4 turns out before obtaining adequate control over rebound. My conclusion; for this to be successful, the shock needs revalved! However, others HAVE installed the shock as is and are happy. It does work as is valving wise but if you're heavier and ride agressiviely you may run out of adjustment. As far as fitting the spring, you can shave down the OEM part but you must be careful removing material or you'll end up with too little preload. BUT - you save about $200 bucks! Hint; I have R6 Forks so I'm trying to marry the couple for the long haul making them work together as a team!
_DSC5721web.jpg


Adjustments to the Plastic:
To get at the rebound adjuster you will need to drill/grind some plastic away like so. You have carry a screw driver to make adjustments which does fit under the seat. The bad news is the right side pod needs removed to make adjustments at the top for compression. OR, you could drill a hole in it. I don't want a
hole in mine. Also the under seat tray needs trimmed just a hair to access the compression adjuster. No pictures but you'll see..
IMG_20130329_142625_556WEB_zps0d7e3ba7.jpg

IMG_20130329_142606_644WEB_zps59946062.jpg



That's about it. As stated, I have R6 forks up front and with the R1 shock on the back I have tailored the ride to suit my needs which the bike does well. On long rides like 300 miles, its bit tiring (its pretty firm) but I don't do that often. It is great for squirting around corners the way its set now. This thing is rock steady in the corners and no longer sea saws back and forth. Turn in is great, I can launch hard and ride over about any terrain the world has to offer with damn good control. I'm very happy with how this came out. The bike is a pleasure to ride at any speed!

If someone wants more detail let me know. I can likely obtain the exact notes of what was done inside the shock to change the valving. Its pretty straight forward.
 
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FinalImpact

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Technical details: (place holder for now)

To tailor the shock to our bike the shocks internal valving needs reworked. Once the spring is off and the nitrogen is bled off the shock body can come apart. Behind this nut is the metering orifices, valves, and shims stack that control the oil flow when the piston moves in the body. The opposing ends of the shocks body have the user adjustable valves to tailor the rate of compression and rebound travel.

IMG_20130327_105806_898WEB_zps820765ca.jpg

IMG_20130327_105815_802WEB_zps55583172.jpg


When I get the details of "What was changed" internally to the valving I'll edit this and add them should someone wish to have their suspension guy rework their shock. But its primarily about adding/removing shims to tailor the rate at which oil flows through the piston to the other side.

2013-06-03, I'm going to try and keep the TOP TWO POSTS with all the FACTS. What do you need to do to make this work. Other posts below this point will be details of how and why I did what I did. So if you want the details, I may have them below.
 
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FinalImpact

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Captains log;
I'm pumped! Bike handles like its on rails even with a trashed front tire! I'd really like to see some other FZ owners shove their bike into a reverse bank drop turn which switches directions! It has a pucker factor but the bike performs perfect! I couldn't expect better!

I'd really love to ride something more high-end into the same situation and see who's OK on the other side! This roads out here offer every challenge one could imagine. Really!

I need to record everything as far as setup and cause I'm pretty happy with it. The front and rear are so well matched its good for the environment I ride in and more importantly it works for me!
 

motojoe122

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I would like the details on what was done. Like we talked about before, mine seems to work for me as is. But when I do take it in to get the adjuster put on and rebuilt, I could give them the info and get it all done at once. Unless I send mine out to you:eek:
 

FinalImpact

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Will do. I have that spare body, I may have him valve it and sell it. Need the adjusting collar tho!

Oh and Thanks to MotoJo and Darius for your support on this project! :thumbup:
 

FinalImpact

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Differences // Comparing the R1 to FZ6 for interchangeability:

The springs rates and valving is very different. Here are some details.
=====================================

2008 FZ6 Rear Shock:
Eye to eye: 300 mm (11.82")
Travel: 50mm (1.97")
Setting #1 light: 175.2mm (6.90")
Setting #7 firm: 165.8mm (6.53")
Installed length MANUAL SAYS: 172.0 mm (6.77 in), doesn't say what setting tho, suspect #3.

Range of preload: 9.4mm (0.37")
Coil OD: 77.6mm (3.055")
Coil Dia: 11.76mm (0.463")
Spring free length 185.0 mm (7.28")
Spring rate K1: 12.99 kgf/mm (727.45 lb/in), 127.40 N/mm

=====================================

2003 R1 Rear Shock:
Eye to eye: 300 mm (11.82")
Travel: 65 mm (2.56")
Setting #1 light: 165mm (6.50")
Setting #8 firm: 158mm (6.22")
Installed length MANUAL: 162.5 mm (6.4 in), doesn't say what setting tho.

Range of preload: 7mm (0.28") // Min = 1, Ship @ 4, max = 9
Coil OD: 77.6mm (3.055")
Coil Dia: 11.00mm (0.435")
Free length 176.5 mm (6.95 in)
Spring rate K1: 8.83 kg/mm, (504 lb/in), 88.3 N/mm

SHOCK damping from fully turned in:
[Bottom Adjuster]
Rebound min: 20
Reb Standard: 15
Rebound max: 1
** CURRENT SETTING ON FZ w/Revalve = 15 Turns out
*** BEFORE RE-VALVE = 4 turns out. Wasn't able to get pack down, meaning I had TOO MUCH rebound damping. I did a short test drive a 1 turn out. It just didn't feel right and thats when I parked it.

[Top Adjuster]
Compression min: 20
Compression stand: 15
Compression max: 1

** CURRENT SETTING ON FZ w/Revalve = 12 ((Need to Confirm))
*** BEFORE RE-VALVE = 10 turns out and soft. Kinda floaty like a Cad. Mucho squat on launch. I parked it for winter before getting it dialed in but it may have enough damping adjustment left.

=====================================

I measured the distance between the spring lands to see if I stand a chance of getting the SAG around 28mm after the FZ spring is put on the R1 Shock. It is not possible for me to obtain an installed height of 170mm (FZ setting #5) without doing something with the adjuster. Hence the need for the adjustable collar. However, if you happen to be FZ #7 setting you could just throw your spring on there and try it.

FZ #1 light: 175mm // R1 #1 light: 165mm
FZ #7 firm: 166mm // R1 #9 firm: 158mm
--------------------------------------------
- - - - - - - 9mm - - - - - - - 7mm << the range isn't all the different but the installed height is. That is the problem with just dropping the shock in w/our spring.
 

jrevans

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Great post, especially showing how to flip the shock around to keep the under tray in place.

Maybe someday I'll get off of my rump and actually do this mod myself, considering that I bought the R1 shock last year and it's still sitting in my garage.

I'll probably cheap out and try to do it without re-valving the shock though.
 

FinalImpact

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I would like the details on what was done. Like we talked about before, mine seems to work for me as is. But when I do take it in to get the adjuster put on and rebuilt, I could give them the info and get it all done at once. Unless I send mine out to you:eek:


OK - something unexpected; suspension dude didn't want to straight up give the details out about the setup. Fear of lost revenue perhaps. Let me swing by again as I told him what the population is and its so small and sparse I don't see anyone taking business from him!

If he doesn't want to share, I'll ask him for a price quote to re valve another and install adjuster for you! I'll txt you PM you when I find out.
 

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OK - something unexpected; suspension dude didn't want to straight up give the details out about the setup. Fear of lost revenue perhaps. Let me swing by again as I told him what the population is and its so small and sparse I don't see anyone taking business from him!

If he doesn't want to share, I'll ask him for a price quote to re valve another and install adjuster for you! I'll txt you PM you when I find out.

Are you near Portland? Who did the work on your shock?
 

FinalImpact

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Are you near Portland? Who did the work on your shock?

He is within Beaverton Motorcycles Service Center but not part of it. Just the one guy so head that way, he'll help you out! :thumbup:
 

FinalImpact

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Great post, especially showing how to flip the shock around to keep the under tray in place.

Maybe someday I'll get off of my rump and actually do this mod myself, considering that I bought the R1 shock last year and it's still sitting in my garage.

I'll probably cheap out and try to do it without re-valving the shock though.


If you can find the happy spot for preload on the stock shock (Say #5 for me), measure it to the 1/2mm (170mm etc) and then modify the R1 adjuster to match that same measurement (170mm installed height). My learning came from the evil spring. i.e. holding spacers in place by hand did not fully seat the "seats" and when i put the spring in it compressed the spring seats (perches) nearly 2mm more creating excessive SAG.

You were warned!! lol Note to self: you can always grind more off. Much harder to add material back!
 

FinalImpact

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Just recording my settings - Its like a journal! lol

2013-09-09
Comp: 11 out
Reb: 11 out

JJD952

((PASTE FROM ABOVE))
SHOCK damping from fully turned in:
[Bottom Adjuster]
Rebound min: 20
Reb Standard: 15
Rebound max: 1
** CURRENT SETTING ON FZ w/Revalve = 15 Turns out
*** BEFORE RE-VALVE = 4 turns out. Wasn't able to get pack down, meaning I had TOO MUCH rebound damping. I did a short test drive a 1 turn out. It just didn't feel right and thats when I parked it.

[Top Adjuster]
Compression min: 20
Compression stand: 15
Compression max: 1
 

FinalImpact

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If you're reading this, I encourage you to look at this link and then pay close attention to what your bike does during corner entry, apex and exit. Pay attention to when and how much you brake as well as well as how much throttle you apply and what the bike actually does.

This article starts off long but is a good read to get the rider thinking about what the bike and rider are doing. If you have an interest in making the bike handle better, READ THIS:>>> Motorcycle Suspension Set-up

FWIW: My current setup is very compliant as far as corner entry, apex and exit. It took some playing to get there but I'm happy. Also someone asked about the extra travel of the R1 rear shock. When the spring was off I fulling collapsed the rear and the chain did not bind and the tire didn't contact anything. However the ultimate test would be with the shocks bumper removed.
I have ~ 550 invested in the suspension on both ends and feel it was worth every penny an for me rates as the best mod done to date! Stable and Predictable FTW! :thumbup:
 

FinalImpact

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[MENTION=1684]ANLR21[/MENTION]

Some shock and spring info at the top of this thread. Post up how yours does once able to ride.
 
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