R6 Forks O! M! G!

ShoopCE

Elite Member
Site Supporter
Joined
Sep 14, 2013
Messages
528
Reaction score
84
Points
28
Location
Parkersburg, WV
Visit site
I installed a set of R6s forks today, and WOW! What a difference!

Let me say that again with emphasis.

WOW!!! Why the bell didn't I do this sooner?

A few weeks ago my neighbor, who takes his Honda ST1100 through the twisties like a sport bike, swapped bikes with me for a bit. His main comment was "Wow, those forks are soft!" So we talked about it and he told me what an improvement he'd made for the ST with a simple change to replace the springs. He explained how the bike would feel more stable in just about any curve. I'd noticed that while I was on his bike, though we weren't really pushing it.

So, I started researching springs. Heavier springs from racetech. Not too expensive and not too challenging to make the change. But then in a conversation about windscreens with my new buddy, Motojoe122, he mentions that he's got a spare pair of R6 forks and offers to sell them to me for a really great price. DONE. He also sends me to Dako81 who makes a great set of bushings and doodads that make it REALLY simple to adapt the R6 forks to the FZ6. DONE! Honestly, it was more challenging to change the oil for the R6 forks than to install the forks and re-fit the fender.

I only had an hour left to play with the bike so I did a really quick check on the settings and decided to keep the ones the previous owner set in place for the first ride. If anything the sag seems a bit less than recommended which seems surprising since the FZ6 is heavier than the R6. The springs are very stiff compared to what I've been used to. I might try backing off the compression damping a bit.

So, what does it feel like? Back to WOW! First thing I notice is how much stiffer the suspension feels, not exactly comfy. Then I come to the very first curve that calls for a lean, still in the development and at a measley 25 mph, and wow, that was pretty promising. This curve is slow but has some ripple because the concrete plates have shifted a bit. With the stock forks, the bike would bobble and try to change the line. With the better forks, NOTHING!!! Well, I felt the road, but the bike just stayed stable and kept the line without any need for more input from me. After I got out to the real twisties, the difference was even more apparent. Hallelujah!

I think a good analogy is that riding with the standard forks is like trying to cut your steak using one of those flimsy plastic knives - not the ones that Outback gives you. The knife wobbles and buckles and you can't press too hard or it goes off line. But after you switch, it's like you picked up a scalpel and your only worry is that you don't want to slice right through the china plate.

Chris
 

motojoe122

No ride is too far...
Moderator
Elite Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2010
Messages
3,579
Reaction score
44
Points
0
Location
Somers Point, NJ
Visit site
I'm glad to hear you like them a little[emoji1]
I did the springs and oil in the stock forks and it felt dull after I got use to it. FI pulled the trigger on the R6S forks around the same time, after he and I talked about how he liked them, well...... The hunt was on.
Looking back, for what the springs and oil cost plus having a shop do it(if you go that route) the R6S forks are a much better option. But if you give a mouse a cookie, he'll want ohlins[emoji12]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

lawlberg

Booth Babe
Joined
Aug 13, 2012
Messages
907
Reaction score
11
Points
18
Location
Sydney, Australia
Visit site
When you go with the R6s forks it's pretty close to a swap with the bushings and doodads right? I think I need to find some doodads.

I think mine are straight still after the deer, but you can never be too careful right? right? right? I can probably convince myself that I need new forks this winter.
 

ShoopCE

Elite Member
Site Supporter
Joined
Sep 14, 2013
Messages
528
Reaction score
84
Points
28
Location
Parkersburg, WV
Visit site
When you go with the R6s forks it's pretty close to a swap with the bushings and doodads right? I think I need to find some doodads.

I think mine are straight still after the deer, but you can never be too careful right? right? right? I can probably convince myself that I need new forks this winter.

You can NEVER be too careful. Especially if you can claim SAFETY as the reason to get new doodads or a new tool for the toolbox.

So, what all is needed?

1. Get the forks used but be careful that you get the right version. And ones that are NOT bent - good luck with that. The R6 has been around a long time and there have been changes. The ones I got came from a 2007 R6s << NOTE the "s" which I think means this was the more "street friendly" version. I think in that time frame the non-"s" version had inverted forks - which won't work with your calipers and I'm not sure where you'd mount the fender. Better to get the non-inverted versions and the problems are fewer.

2. The R6 forks are 43 mm so they fit right into the triple tree. I've read that they are 1/2" shorter than stock, but my measurement was only 1/8 inch shorter. This is a very slight change to the geometry, and no change if the sag is less.

3. You need the R6 axle. The FZ6 axle has quite a bit larger diameter. The R6 axle will be not quite 1/2" short since the FZ6 tree is a bit wider. But this is OK because you still have plenty of metal for the pinch bolts at the bottom of the fork to grab onto. Don't be freaked out, but the R6 axle slides in from the left, versus the FZ6 from the right. The axle isn't threaded into the fork like in the FZ6. It uses a bolt from the right side that threads into the axle.

Past here are parts in Dako81's kit:

4. You need the special bushings to use the R6 axle in the FZ6 wheel. One of them has a recess to accommodate the head of the axle - meaning they are specific to which side they are to be located.

Here's a pic of the tabs molded on the sides of the forks.

Fork-Black.jpg

The protrusion at the very bottom (right side of pic) is one of the damping adjustment screws.Next towards left are the two heavy tabs that are used to mount the calipers. Dako's kit comes with stainless washers that are needed to move the calipers about a mm closer to center. Otherwise they are in exactly the right spot (up/down). Next to left are two tabs on leading and trailing edge of the tube that are used to mount the fender.The last and top-most tab is not used with the FZ6.

Dako's kit comes with two sets of dog-bones and mounting bolts that are necessary to use these next-to top tabs with the FZ6 fender. The longer pair (one on each fork) mounts to the tab on the leading edge and hangs down. The shorter pair mount to the tab on the trailing edge and also hangs down. You'll need to fiddle a bit to get them locked down in the right position.

Last step (though you REALLY need to do this before you start fiddling with the dog-bones) is that you have to cut a 5/8 x 3 inch slot on each side of the fender. I AGONIZED over this until I saw that the slot is in the part of the fender that wraps around the fork tube. You cannot see this slot when the fender is installed and the fender does not seem to be at all weakened because the edges and folds of the fender are thicker and stiffer than the part that gets cut. I needed to buy a coping saw to do this cut - so now I've also added a $7 saw to my toolbox.

So - there you go: forks, axle, Dako's kit and a coping saw. That's everything. And it looks like you didn't touch it! Honestly, changing the oil in the new forks was more challenging than the installation was.

Chris
 

Attachments

  • Forks-Black.JPG
    Forks-Black.JPG
    1 KB · Views: 729
  • Fork-Black.jpg
    Fork-Black.jpg
    94.3 KB · Views: 110

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Site Supporter
Joined
Mar 16, 2011
Messages
11,137
Reaction score
184
Points
63
Location
USA, OR
Visit site
I've said it before, it's the best money I've ever spent on the bike. Just as said above, stable and predictable is a winner! Not to mention safer!

Better yet; Raise the forks about 8mm in the triple and increase the oil level by 20mm. Turn in will be sweet and youll have reduced dive while corner braking with added fluid. Beyond 12 mm through the triple gets sketch at 1XX speeds!
I've found 7.5wt is a great compromise (Yamalube) on the street... Track use, use 5wt.

Have fun!
 

lawlberg

Booth Babe
Joined
Aug 13, 2012
Messages
907
Reaction score
11
Points
18
Location
Sydney, Australia
Visit site
I've said it before, it's the best money I've ever spent on the bike. Just as said above, stable and predictable is a winner! Not to mention safer!

Better yet; Raise the forks about 8mm in the triple and increase the oil level by 20mm. Turn in will be sweet and youll have reduced dive while corner braking with added fluid. Beyond 12 mm through the triple gets sketch at 1XX speeds!
I've found 7.5wt is a great compromise (Yamalube) on the street... Track use, use 5wt.

Have fun!

So - I found what looks like a great deal, can't tell if the tubes are bent, but seller says they are straight. If I determine they aren't, can I cannibalize my fz6 43mm fork tubes? Anyone have an answer there?
 

MattR302

Awesomeness, Inc.
Joined
Apr 19, 2012
Messages
621
Reaction score
38
Points
28
Location
New Haven, CT
Visit site
So - I found what looks like a great deal, can't tell if the tubes are bent, but seller says they are straight. If I determine they aren't, can I cannibalize my fz6 43mm fork tubes? Anyone have an answer there?
I don't think so, ronayers has them as different part numbers. But if they are bent, I've got an extra set of R6S fork tubes I'd sell you
 

ChanceCoats123

Junior Member
Joined
May 16, 2014
Messages
668
Reaction score
2
Points
0
Location
Chicago Suburbs
Visit site
R6 forks combined with the R1 rear shock have been the best upgrades I've done to my bike. I got a new set of pilot road 4 tires on the bike last week and now that the scrub in is complete, the bike is so predictable and smooth through the curves, it's just an awesome feeling.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Site Supporter
Joined
Mar 16, 2011
Messages
11,137
Reaction score
184
Points
63
Location
USA, OR
Visit site
So - I found what looks like a great deal, can't tell if the tubes are bent, but seller says they are straight. If I determine they aren't, can I cannibalize my fz6 43mm fork tubes? Anyone have an answer there?

No can do. Not the same. Even the caps have a different pitch thread IIRC so its a Go/NoGo as in, get $$ back.
 

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Site Supporter
Joined
Mar 16, 2011
Messages
11,137
Reaction score
184
Points
63
Location
USA, OR
Visit site
Lawberg, check this out...
First real thing I did to the bike. Replaced the forks in 2012! --> Best investment EVER R6 Forks! Rides so Nice......


2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6S Yamaha Motorcycle FRONT FORK Diagram and Parts
FRONT FORK ASSY (L.H), 5SL-23102-00-00
FRONT FORK ASSY (R.H), 5SL-23103-00-00

AXLE, WHEEL, 5SL-25181-00-00
BOLT, FLANGE, 90105-14002-00

FORK SEAL KIT, 4PU-W003B-00-00

Dako Spacer kit
7.5wt oil (3 pints). Flush and overfill.


PS - Where used has these bikes listed as Same Fork:
5SL-23103-00-00 YAMAHA FRONT FORK ASSY (R.H (Right Fork PN)
2003 R6 - YZFR6SRC FRONT FORK
2003 YZFR6 - YZFR6R FRONT FORK
2003 YZFR6 - YZFR6RC FRONT FORK
2003 YZFR6 - YZFR6SR FRONT FORK
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6S FRONT FORK
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6SC FRONT FORK
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6SCS FRONT FORK
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6SS FRONT FORK
2006 R6S - YZFR6SV FRONT FORK
2006 R6S - YZFR6SVC FRONT FORK
2007 R6S - YZFR6SW FRONT FORK
2007 R6S CA - YZFR6SWC FRONT FORK
2008 R6S - YZFR6SXB FRONT FORK
2008 R6S - YZFR6SXL FRONT FORK
2008 R6S CA - YZFR6SXBC FRONT FORK
2008 R6S CA - YZFR6SXLC FRONT FORK
2008 YZF-R6S - YZFR6SXCB FRONT FORK
2008 YZF-R6S - YZFR6SXCL FRONT FORK
2009 YZFR6S - YZFR6SYB FRONT FORK
2009 YZFR6S - YZFR6SYCB FRONT FORK
2009 YZFR6S - YZFR6SYCL FRONT FORK
2009 YZFR6S - YZFR6SYL FRONT FORK
 

pattonme

New Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2015
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Virginia, USA
Visit site
This and threads from back in 2012 reference fork weight such as using 10W. Unfortunately this isn't a useful description of the oil viscosity. See chart.
http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/images/content/motorcycle/PVD-ISO-Viscosity-Data.gif

Jap4 cartridge forks are generally filled with about 16cSt@40 oil which is a bit too light for the valving as delivered. I personally like to use 21cSt and run stiffer valving to boot.

I don't know if I should resurrect the old thread but if you're going to use R6 (or other donor) forks, do yourself a favor and take them all apart. Use brake cleaner to blast them clean, replace seals and possibly bushings, and might as well revisit the OE shim stack which is generally very poor. And by examining the piston orifices you can identify how to alter the shim stack to suit it's limitations.
 

beatle

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2012
Messages
430
Reaction score
3
Points
18
Location
Springfield, VA
Visit site
I wouldn't say the overhaul and changing the shim stack is necessary if you're swapping them in. The whole point of the fork swap is that it's easy, relatively affordable, and it provides a great deal of benefit. There will always be improvements to chase, but there's nothing wrong with just swapping the forks.
 

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Site Supporter
Joined
Mar 16, 2011
Messages
11,137
Reaction score
184
Points
63
Location
USA, OR
Visit site
I wouldn't say the overhaul and changing the shim stack is necessary if you're swapping them in. The whole point of the fork swap is that it's easy, relatively affordable, and it provides a great deal of benefit. There will always be improvements to chase, but there's nothing wrong with just swapping the forks.



^^ +5

I have a spare fork (free but damaged) and getting the cartridge apart is near impossible as its so tight. I wanted to inspect the oem stack and see if mods could be made to soften big bumps.

Bang for buck is break down, clean it, bushings and seals. I've got two people saying the newer forks with added high speed bleds are not as good as properly set non-HS dampers. I like the bike firm so my one complaint is there is not a happy medium should the road get rough. Hence a better arrangement in the shim stack may offer quick bleed for harsh bumps. That said i can live with it as is.
 

pattonme

New Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2015
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Virginia, USA
Visit site
getting the cartridge apart is near impossible as its so tight.

Generous application of heat to "burn off" the thread lock. A chuck (or vise with holders) and a tool to grab the main tube and it'll yield.

I like the bike firm so my one complaint is there is not a happy medium should the road get rough.

Sure thing. This is what 'firm but also handles big bumps' looks like. Specifically the 2 green lines with a sharp elbow in them.

matris-force.jpg
 

lawlberg

Booth Babe
Joined
Aug 13, 2012
Messages
907
Reaction score
11
Points
18
Location
Sydney, Australia
Visit site
I don't know if I should resurrect the old thread but if you're going to use R6 (or other donor) forks, do yourself a favor and take them all apart. Use brake cleaner to blast them clean, replace seals and possibly bushings, and might as well revisit the OE shim stack which is generally very poor. And by examining the piston orifices you can identify how to alter the shim stack to suit it's limitations.

I don't expect to beat the winter with my rebuild, so I'll have nothing but time - this is definitely happening with my forks.
 
Top