R1 Shock Install

Hellgate

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The best laid plans of mice and men...

Well the hardware I was waiting for from Yamaha showed up today, sure enough I changed my course of action. Instead of shiming the upper bolt to the frame bracket, I ended up drilling out the mounting bolt hole for the new shock. Did some grinding with an under powered Dremmel Mototool and bolted up the shock. Sounds easy...took about 2.5 hours.

I'm not going to go into detail because I don't think that the R1 Shock will work. Reason being, it is waaaaaaay undersprung. When I first did the bounce on the seat test it was like sitting on a LazyBoy, way too soft. I cranked the preload to max and almost no change. I didn't fiddle with the damping but this thing feels so far off I think I'm going to cut my losses at this point.

I think that this shock needs the linkage to get it to work. The linear rear suspension is simply too much for it.

Now that said you could install a different spring but I'm concerned that the damping mappings will be way off too.

The funny thing is Bill got his Fox shock to work well.

So I'm going to regroup and see what I can think up from here. Ohlins would be great but man they are expsensive.

Now that said...Madman was talking about lowering his ride, this would be perfect for him!

Here's one photo, damn it is pretty...
View attachment 2117

I've had a few questions on what needs to be ground on the sub frame mount. Here's a couple of photos. Basically the U shaped cut out needs to be made square. Also included is the additional hardware I bought for the project.

With PEDs new (as of 1/1/09) shock update mod, this may now be a very good option. See his mod over on SBN for details. :thumbup:
View attachment 11604View attachment 11605View attachment 11606View attachment 11607
 
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Hellgate

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Would the R6 swingarm work better with it?

I think it would, however the customization is huge. I was talking with a guy who had done that mod and it was pretty major surgery. They had to customize a way to mount linkage points to the engine. Then you have to reroute the entire exhaust, which leaves you with two big holes under your seat.

So with this I think the most practical solution is to to buy an aftermaket shock. Funny while it seems expensive, and it is, it is the simplest and most cost effective solution.

That said depending on the rider's weight an aftermarket spring would probably do the trick. They are about $125 and are a progressive coil.

I've got about $75 into this, but I think it is time to stop.

I did get an nice collection of drill bits however! :thumbup:
 
H

HavBlue

When I first read this idea my biggest concern was the weight difference between the R1 that the shock was designed for and the FZ6 that carries a static weight of roughly 60lbs more. As it turns out I had a similar problem when I installed the 2002 S model piggyback shocks on my 2004 Sporty Roadster. The 2004 is 57lbs heavier. As it turned out there was enough adjustment in the piggyback shocks to overcome the difference in weight whereas it would appear this is not the case with the R1 to FZ6 change. Yeah, Ohlins is expensive but you'll find they are worth it too.
 

DefyInertia

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Talk about timing! I had the chance to measure the sag on my bike LAST NIGHT and the results sucked....

lowest preload setting - 70mm

middle preload setting - 60mm

preload jacked all the way up! - 50mm

Not good. I'm considering another spring but I'm concerned about the damping as well. Ped seems to think it won't be an issue and BikerBill is happy w/ his shock so I'm a little confused as to how I should move forward.

my biggest concern was the weight difference between the R1 that the shock was designed for and the FZ6 that carries a static weight of roughly 60lbs more. .

that's not the real issue here...it's the linkage vs. linear movement; the latter requires a much stiffer spring. so sad, so sad.
 

Hellgate

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When I first read this idea my biggest concern was the weight difference between the R1 that the shock was designed for and the FZ6 that carries a static weight of roughly 60lbs more. As it turns out I had a similar problem when I installed the 2002 S model piggyback shocks on my 2004 Sporty Roadster. The 2004 is 57lbs heavier. As it turned out there was enough adjustment in the piggyback shocks to overcome the difference in weight whereas it would appear this is not the case with the R1 to FZ6 change. Yeah, Ohlins is expensive but you'll find they are worth it too.

That was my concern too. I'm not sure if it is the extra weight or the lack of the progressiveness of the linear system. The lineage rear end kinda works like a cam, like a Nautilus weight lifting machine, it is more progressive the more it moves.

Hyperpro is another option too, a bit less than Ohlins Hyperpro | Suspension Technology
 

Hellgate

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Talk about timing! I had the chance to measure the sag on my bike LAST NIGHT and the results sucked....

lowest preload setting - 70mm

middle preload setting - 60mm

preload jacked all the way up! - 50mm

Not good. I'm considering another spring but I'm concerned about the damping as well. Ped seems to think it won't be an issue and BikerBill is happy w/ his shock so I'm a little confused as to how I should move forward.



that's not the real issue here...it's the linkage vs. linear movement; the latter requires a much stiffer spring. so sad, so sad.


Dude too funny! Great minds think alike! :thumbup:

I agree this thing stinks. I didn't need to measure because I could see it sink so far!

Think it is time to save my pennies and buy a better shock in a few months.

The good thing about goign with Ohlins is they are delivered to you with the correct spring weight, just for you. I believe Hyperpro does the same.
 

Kakashi

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I was going to try this mod myself and went a little different direction. I went out on a limb and purchased from Yamaha the upper shock bushing (P/N 34L-22216-00-00 @ $8.40) and the lower collar (P/N 90387-1012B-00 @ $3.31)
The upper bushing in the R1 shock can be tapped out with a hammer and a socket and the lower collar is a simple slide out swap. I put my calipers on these items and found they were within .002 +/-. I recommend that you freeze the upper bushing for at least 24hrs prior to install as it will ease the installation, along with plenty of Never-Seize. As for the spring problem I was going to use a Race-Tech spring and swap it myself, now opting for an even stronger spring that they make. I'm not in any real hurry to do this as my set-up now is pretty good. I have the Race-Tech 1.0kg springs in the forks along with 15wt oil I had and extra set of spacers machined for me at work, cut them to 190mm and it gave me 25-27mm sag. Now when I crank on the stoppers the bike is rock solid. At 97mph it's like the bike is on a rail, turn in and high speed clover leafs are a blast now.
 

Kakashi

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I got tied up with work and haven't gotten around to installing the shock, all I was attemping to do was to match as many parts to keep from doing any excess drilling or reaming of frame members and to keep the engineered connections as close to OEM as possible.
 

voodooman

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has anyone tried to install R1 swingarm to FZ6?
Maybe the linkage difference would be less, and perhaps you could do fine with the R1 shock then?

Just a tought.. Also it would be interesting mod beacause you could propably keep the underseat exhaust, which is not the case with R6 swingarm, and because the R1 SA would be better looking too than the OEM FZ6 SA.
 
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TAPnTX

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Here is an idea, what about getting a Gold Valve kit for the R1 Shock. It looks easily rebuildable. You might talk to Race Tech and they might be able to give you the formula to recalculate the Shim stacks. Would be cheaper than Ohlins and might be able to get exactly what you want. Of course you will need the new rear spring too.


Todd
 

jrevans

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Here is an idea, what about getting a Gold Valve kit for the R1 Shock. It looks easily rebuildable. You might talk to Race Tech and they might be able to give you the formula to recalculate the Shim stacks. Would be cheaper than Ohlins and might be able to get exactly what you want. Of course you will need the new rear spring too.

Todd

Sounds interesting Todd. Maybe somebody can take that project on, and determine is the cost is right.

In those rare times that used FZ6 Ohlin shocks come up for sale, they appear to be going for around $550, so the total cost of this mod would have to be a good bit less than that for me to consider it.
 

Johnstrat1927

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has anyone tried to install R1 swingarm to FZ6?
Maybe the linkage difference would be less, and perhaps you could do fine with the R1 shock then?

Just a tought.. Also it would be interesting mod beacause you could propably keep the underseat exhaust, which is not the case with R6 swingarm, and because the R1 SA would be better looking too than the OEM FZ6 SA.

I'm actually very close to doing this mod as I have a 99' R1 Swing-arm and Shock lying around the House. I just need to be sure that it wouldn't handle like crap after I install it.
 

DHoback

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So, to bring this thread back from the walking dead.... Got an R1 shock today. Removed the stockerand pressed both upper bushings out(what a PTA with only a vice) Anyway, cleaned up the bushing and inside the R1 upper. I have the bushing chilling in the freezer now.(should help the install tomarrow) Going to swap the the springs out tomarrow and fitit up. I believe this shock will be world better that the stocker, despite the valving. The adjustment range on this thing is HUGE! The top has a total of 24 clicks. The bottom is 32 clicks. Im starting right in the middle of adjustment for both and go from there. I'll have it installed tomarrow, so i'll report back after I take it for a spin.
 

Hellgate

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So, to bring this thread back from the walking dead.... Got an R1 shock today. Removed the stockerand pressed both upper bushings out(what a PTA with only a vice) Anyway, cleaned up the bushing and inside the R1 upper. I have the bushing chilling in the freezer now.(should help the install tomarrow) Going to swap the the springs out tomarrow and fitit up. I believe this shock will be world better that the stocker, despite the valving. The adjustment range on this thing is HUGE! The top has a total of 24 clicks. The bottom is 32 clicks. Im starting right in the middle of adjustment for both and go from there. I'll have it installed tomarrow, so i'll report back after I take it for a spin.

I'm curious to hear how it comes out. Great initiative. :thumbup:
 
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