Front brake slide pins

[greg]

I managed to snap one tonight trying to take my brakes off. I don't really understand how it happened, as it snapped between the smooth bit and the thread, I suspect the sliding bit might have rusted in place slightly :spank:

Anyway, it seems that either my google-fu is weak or nobody seems to sell them online. Nearest yamaha dealer to me is an hour away.

I think this is the part number 5JW-25914

I'll post some photos of my very temporary bodge to fix it.

Luckily I was able to extract the rest of the bolt by using some heat and a stud extractor.

All I wanted to do was grease the back of my pads as they were starting to squeak a little

This is what they're supposed to look like:

 

[lawlberg]

Here you go!

5JW-25914-10-00 PIN, SLIDE $6.87

EDIT: Ah **** - you're in the UK - well if you were in the states...

 

[greg]

yep, can't find it in the UK, there's a place in holland that sell them, but want €13 for shipping a €5 item

I'll phone a few dealers today

This is the broken pin, and my bodged workaround :spank:

 

[Nelly]

yep, can't find it in the UK, there's a place in holland that sell them, but want €13 for shipping a €5 item

I'll phone a few dealers today

This is the broken pin, and my bodged workaround :spank:

Good bodge, stick a bung on the end and you have got the worlds first in-built caliper slider.
Chat to Martin (Cloggy) he might be able to get the pin sent to his home and then sort out a much cheaper shipping cost?

Nelly

 

[greg]

found a dealer a bit nearer to my house (yamaha didn't have them listed under "motorcycles" for some reason). Ordered a bolt, plus a spare just in case, £3.68 each :thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

YIKES!!! pretty sure your caliper isn't going to slide and the threads will bugger up the bushing the pin is supposed to slid in. Not that the bushing is OK now. Your brake hardware is looking pretty SAD!!

FWIW: the repair material looks like something we have here called "all thread" which doesn't even meet fastener grade 3 strength (a bolt with no markings).

I can't imagine it will snap, but it may bend a good deal if its rusty mate above snaps because its not carrying its share of the load.

I'm just voicing that its not worth it in my opinion! Stay home and get those front brakes in TIP TOP SHAPE!!! New calipers for that year are CHEAP!!!!!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

+1 on the above ^^.

That temp fix is not good for the innerds of the caliber. It likely won't snap off but can certainly bend and jamb up the caliper against the disc.

The amount of rust on the old bolt indicates absolutly NO lubrication to that slider pin. I strongly suspect the caliper was NOT MOVING at all, uneven brake wear, poor braking performance.

IMHO, clean out, REAL WELL, the innerds of the caliper and pick up some BRAKE SPECIFIC GREASE. That pin should slide nice and easy in the caliper. Make sure, once you get the new pin, there's not a lot of slop in there due to the rust. I'd be checking the rear pin too, clean and re-grease it....

BTW, that slight machined down edge, (where it snapped), is to allow the rubber seal (accordian looking) to seat and keep crap out, grease in.. If you don't have one, you need to order one (or two)

 

[greg]

i'm pretty sure I've packed it with grease previously, but I have probably neglected them this past year.

I plan on putting a little ACF50 in there, and some copper grease to prevent corrosion. ACF50 in particular seems pretty good at preventing rusting

i didn't really have much choice to use my bike today and yesterday, but my commute in is on pretty slow roads, and I've been avoiding using the front brake

it really is a temporary solution, and i no way endorse it, i don't think there's that much pressure on the pins when braking due to the calliper design, we'll see anyway

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

What year is the bike?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Here's an 05 US model, part #18 are the rubber boots I was referring to:

Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2005 FZ6 - FZ6ST FRONT BRAKE CALIPER Diagram

(BTW, whatever grease your using doesn't seem to work real well)


[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018PSASU"]Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, 8 oz. : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]





DOUBLE click on the picture to enlarge it..

 

[greg]

2006, it's the mk1

i took the rubber boots off as I used a blow torch to apply heat to the snapped off pin that was stuck in

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The slider part (long, smooth end) pretty much came out without an issue?

 

[greg]

at the time i didn't know what it looked like, so I used a stud extractor to get it out. It was in fairly tight, i struggled to undo the stud extractor once it was out (it's self tightening)

 

[FinalImpact]

Just don't want to see anything happen to you!

Sure looks like any bushing/surface associated with those pins are taking it in the rear. Because the pin has flats on it, that usually indicates a tight tolerance in the bushing it rides in and that's a vent so it doesn't hydroloc itself. The drawing Scott was kind enough to post doesn't show any bushing to be replaced tho.

Be Safe!

 

[FinalImpact]

O/T - - - >>> WTF??? Today, 03:00 AM #7 <<TownsendsFJR1300>>

 

[greg]

it should slowly slide out as the piston moves out, and vice-versa. Obviously brake pads don't move much normally which is probably why it rusted solid in the first place.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just don't want to see anything happen to you!

Sure looks like any bushing/surface associated with those pins are taking it in the rear. Because the pin has flats on it, that usually indicates a tight tolerance in the bushing it rides in and that's a vent so it doesn't hydroloc itself. The drawing Scott was kind enough to post doesn't show any bushing to be replaced tho.

Be Safe!

I suspect there is some sort of bushing in there, obviously, it isn't replaceable. If the innerds are really rough and don't clean up, I'd be looking at a new (used caliper).

Re the time, ah no, I was asleep. The forum somehow screwed up. Once I signed in, it now shows the correct time I posted, just after 6am, EST (here)..

 

[fb40dash5]

That wasn't *slightly* rusted in there... that was pretty bad. Honestly the right fix is a new pin and caliper bracket.

The cheap and sleazy way (which I use on cars if a caliper/bracket replacement isn't warranted) is to grease everything up, and self-polish it. Slather brake grease on the pin (I guess a new pin in your case) chuck it in a drill or impact, and spin it while sliding it in and out. That gets about 90% of them in my experience. Then grease it all up and reassemble. The 'bushing' is usually plastic or hard rubber, but not the full length of the hole, so the pin can still rust up in the bore. At the least, I'd order up 2 pins and either use the spare for the other side, or to clean up the bore, depending on how it looks after that and how the other side looks.

 

[greg]

i didn't see a sign of any bushing, bike is currently out of action anyway as the battery appears to have died.

the R/R broke last week, which I replaced, but it seems like it may have killed the battery, as I can't get it to charge back up

i'll try clearing it out with a drill bit by hand, I'll also put some ACF50 in there which reverses and prevents rusting