error 12

[agf]

hey folks anyone had much experience with the above and the crankshaft postion sensor

Mine failed and left me stranded a week back- got the bike to the service crew and they fitted a second hand cps and I hoped all would be good until the new one arrived from japan in a months time.
Took the bike out today, rode no more than about 3 kms and stopped for a petrol re-fill then the bike showed error 12. the fuel pump primes, the starter turns over the donk but she -NO GO!

I have been told as soon as the cps cools down it will run again but fail as soon as the cps gets hot again.

do you think I am just unlucky that the second hand unit has failed or might there be a second issue that causes the fail.
btw when I picj=ked up the bike after fitting the 2nd hand unit it ran fine

any ideas/ experience/ knowledge /anecdotes more than welcome- I have done a few web searches but still somewhat in the dark

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

What's an error 12 indicate?

 

[Gary in NJ]

Fault Code No. - 12 Crankshaft position sensor
Item Symptom - No normal signals are received from the crankshaft position sensor.
Fail-safe action - Stops the engine (by stopping the injection and ignition).
Engine startability - Unable
Vehicle drivability - Unable

From the Fault Code Table...

Fault code No. - 12
Symptom - No normal signals are received from the crankshaft position sensor.
Probable cause of malfunction - (1) Open or short circuit in wiring harness. (2) Defective crankshaft position sensor. (3) Malfunction in pickup rotor. (4) Malfunction in ECU. (5) Improperly installed sensor.

 

[Gary in NJ]

It is strange that two CPS would fail exactly the same. I suspect the connector. I would clean both sides and use some dielectric grease prior to reassembly. I would also suspect the connector at the ECU. That too should be cleaned and dressed.

If that doesn't fix the problem, then problem "(3) Malfunction in pickup rotor" is most likely.

 

[Motogiro]

I remember a while back a member had the cam chain hitting the sensor causing it to fail. The cam chain had enough slack that it was whipping the CPS. This was a pretty high mileage FZ6. Even if the chain is not actually hitting it the chain could create enough magnetic interfering that it might interfere with the hall effect sensor. As the chain heats it lengthens enough to whip near the sensor. Still could also be a bad second sensor.

 

[Motogiro]

Ade,
Any news on your #12/CPS error?

 

[agf]

Hi Clif, waiting on the new CPS to arrive from Japan. I ran the idea of loose cam chain past the techs and they reckon for it to have been that loose I would have heard it long ago and they would have been advising me there was an issue earlier on.
I might just be real unlucky in that the second hand part may well have been the cause of the bike it came off being at thre wreckeers in the first place - who knows.

I just have everything crossed at the moment, that the parts arrive fast and the issue doesn't show again- I gotta say it concerns me -I'd hate to be on the freeqway and have everything just shut down- seems like a pretty weak spot, if it can fail, while you are riding!

 

[agf]

I spoke with the service guys at Yam. today, they said the second hand CPS was still in the original bikes cover when they got it and that it had obviously "had a whack".
But when they installed it everything ran so assumed it was good. As we all know "assume" makes an ass of u and me. I might not have been so happy at the seconf=d hand option knowing there had been damage around the point where the elctrical part was coming from. Apparenetly one of the techs was concerned that the gear indicator might be upsetting the power, I said the Healtech unit has been on for about 8 years, now on its second display as I lost the middle cross bar in the 8

 

[agf]

So I picked up the "Naked Wasp" last Friday morning and it was a delight to be back on two wheels again. I have been riding a little gingerly not venturing too far just to be sure it doesn't fail again, but it seems to be like the bike of old. While it was in I had new head bearings, fresh fork oil, brake pads and a flush and refill of brake fluid so it pulls up remarkably better than it was. So at 55K klms on the clock I hope can look forward to many more untroubled travels

 

[agf]

I rode home at dusk tonight and as I parked in the garage, I noticed as I maneuvered the bike a little bit of dimming of the headlight as I wiggled the steering. I think I have a little bit of a short or a dodgy connector. The headlight plug had failed a while back and I ended up putting three single spade connectors on the headlight to get me out of strife so that will be the first thing I check tomorrow morning.

 

[Motogiro]

The headlight wiring is fed through the steering harness to the left handle bar through the hi/lo beam switch. It could be the hi/lo switch or one of the three wires . Also those wires pass through a plug which would be worth checking to be sure the pins are not corroded making intermittent/poor connection.

Is the issue present with hi or lo beam, or both?

 

[agf]

Seems to only be low beam. I did access that plug when I installed the automatic indicator cancelling system. It all looked good then, so fingers crossed, hopefully they didnt upset anything in there when they did the head stem bearings. Its been fine for a while since I did the running repair on the headlight plug-it had actuallly shorted and melted the plastic plug. so I figure that maybe the crimp wasnt strong enough and the turning of the bars might have put strain on it. Its really tight behind the headlight on the naked- theres a bucket load of stuff going on behind that headlight as you'd know, so I am about to head out to the cold garage now and start my exploration. I could actually replicate the problem last time by sticking my fingers behind the headlight and pressing on the wiring, so I'll start with that and then go further if I need to.

 

[agf]

Well its all sorted which is good. Same as last time, I could find a spot in the sweep from left to right where the headlight would go out and if I jiggled the wires it would flicker on/off.
I had only put in one spade connector(not all 3 as I thought) as the two parallel pins on the original plug were still kind of OK, the top pin on the original plug had melted from shorting so I had actually cut that one off - a bit of butchery, but it had worked at the time.
Anyway the insulation on the green wire had a nice worn patch about 1cm long and the wiring was visible. The spade connector I had used had a clear plastic sheath that showed a bit of evidence of heat effect and there was a crack in the yellow insulation just above or along from where the wire went into the connector so I figure there must have been some shorting going on.
Solution: off to the auto part store for an H4 lamp base connector, which comes pre wired with about 10 cm of wire. Out with the soldering iron, plenty of insulation tape and the issue is resolved. feels good to have that sorted. The other thing I did the other day was put new front pegs on so they dont angle forward anymore and new springs and pins while it was all apart. something that onlyI would notice but its nice to keep the "wasp" in the best condition I can.

 

[Motogiro]

Good job! Usually when there's an over heated plug issue on the H4 lamp it's because the low beam is staying on while the high beam is active. Check to make sure there hasn't been a filament failure where a filament has popped off and rewelded itself where both filaments are staying active. Make sure the low beam filament is turning off while on high high beam. Your naked bike should already have the proper switching unlike the faired, 2 eyed FZ6.

 

[agf]

the melted plug is a few lamps old now but I'll double check that i only get hi or low tonight when its easier to see. I hope its ok, I think it will be. But I think Ihave seen that issue with the filament on a non bike specific lamp I had in there for a while. It didnt last long but maybe it was the culprit.