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Chain and sprocket sizes

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deathjam4

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So I am busy looking for chains and sprockets for my bike. My question would apply to mods and upgrades as it involves changing sizes of parts.

So I read going down in size of front sprocket speeds you up and up in the back makes it more faster. This is not he part I was wondering about.

What I am interested to know is if I go from chain size of 330 to 320 will it make a difference over all or no.

I am still pretty new to figuring these things out so mostly just fishing for info. And if I powder coat a sprocket will it last (provided I don’t paint the teeth.) on a steel one.

Thanks ahead of time for replies.
 
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deathjam4 said:
So I read going down in size of front sprocket speeds you up and up in the back makes it more faster.
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Going to a smaller front sprocket, OR going to a larger rear sprocket provides for quicker acceleration - at the expense of top speed and higher rpm at highway speed. As a general rule of thumb, going up 3 teeth on the rear is the equivalent of going down one tooth on the front (actually counter-shaft) sprocket.

deathjam4 said:
What I am interested to know is if I go from chain size of 330 to 320 will it make a difference over all or no.
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As noted above, stick with the OEM chain type; 530

deathjam4 said:
And if I powder coat a sprocket will it last (provided I don’t paint the teeth.) on a steel one.
Click to expand...

Powder coating will eventually wear from the sprocket. Aluminum sprockets are anodized and come in different colors. Aluminum is light (a good thing) and anodization will last as long as the sprocket.
 
I was also considering doing something similar. I'm curious on recommendations on the sprocket change to give in a little higher top speed without hurting acceleration too much. Was thinking i would like to get my rpm's down a bit since i live in the country so i will either being cruising 60 or 70-75 on the highway.
Also does anyone know what to reduce the chain size by or increase when changing? They sell them with single link differences so to save me buying a tool to rip apart the "Forever" chain id like to just buy a new chain with exactly what i will need link wise.
Whats everyone's thoughts on this?
Sorry not trying to hijack the post just seemed that the original question was answered well.
 
Knowing the drive ratio in 6th gear (1.0833) and the tire size (180/55-17) we can calculate the expected engine rpm with various secondary drive (sprocket) ratios. The OEM sprocket setup of 46/16 produces a Final Drive Ratio (FDR) of 6.0876:1.

At 60 mph we expect the engine to rev at 4,954 rpm and at 70 at 5,780 rpm.

Removing two teeth from the rear sprocket (44/16) produces an FDR of 5.8229 yielding on rpm of 4,739 @ 60mph and 5,528 @ 70mph. This minor change would not require the chain to be shortened.

What RPM are you looking for at 60 & 70mph?
 
I’m really looking to get it down as far as I can without affecting the acceleration too badly. I’m okay if the acceleration takes a bit of a hit just not a massive one. I like quick take offs. Lol
 
I have been looking for a chain in the 530 size for my bike. Now I could go oem but that would cost me 300$ here in Canada. So I found the chains on a website called Fortnite.ca but there is so many options I really have no idea what to choose. I mostly just want something good for everyday riding. I am not going to be racing the bike or taking it on track so just something that’s good for in town and highway would be what I want. Also I am a bit interested in the coloured ones may go with a gold one lol.

((Update))

I just noticed that the DID 530 ZVMX Super Street X2-Ring Chain is 42%off for the 120 link is it worth it for me to purchase this or should I go with the DID 530 VX PRO-Street X-Ring Chain chain instead they are both at the same price point minus a couple bucks and was thinking of going for the more expensive one on sale.
 
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Get an o-ring or x-ring chain. They require the least amount of maintenance and last the longest. There are many reputable companies that produce them such as RK, DID, EK, and others.

I've never used Fortnine.ca (I believe you have a typo there) because I live in he USA, but their spokesman "Ryan" makes some of the best motorcycle content on the internet. For that reason alone I would support them.
 
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Gary in NJ said:
Get an o-ring or x-ring chain. They require the least amount of maintenance and last the longest. There are many reputable companies that produce them such as RK, DID, EK, and others.

I've never used Fortnine.ca (I believe you have a typo there) because I live in he UDA, but their spokesman "Ryan" makes some of the best motorcycle content on the internet. For that reason alone I would support them.
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+1 in the Fortnine content. The company presents itself well.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Ok thanks guys i am going to get my sprockets and chain and steering bearing from this site as well as my rear bearings will need to purchase oem for the swing arm on anouther website.
 
deathjam4 said:
Ok thanks guys i am going to get my sprockets and chain and steering bearing from this site as well as my rear bearings will need to purchase oem for the swing arm on anouther website.
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I would love an update on your sprocket and chain situation. Did you get the RPM's you wanted at the highway? Also, did it throw off your display MPH v.s. acutal?
 
DeucePutts said:
I would love an update on your sprocket and chain situation. Did you get the RPM's you wanted at the highway? Also, did it throw off your display MPH v.s. acutal?
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Any change will affect the accuracy of the speedometer (it won't be accurate).

I have the stock gearing but added a "Speedo-healer". You can re-program it to adjust your speedometer up or down for the correct speed. It is plug and play, no hacking..

I adjusted mine with a GPS and it's within .2 MPH

Also, with the SH, it'll record your highest top end speed (you can display on the gauge) and to erase it, hold the button down...


.
 
Mine reads about 5% on stock gearing.

Most vehicles do this as there are many countries which have harsh penalties for manufacturers who release vehicles who's speedos read under the actual speed, so they place in a buffer. the odometer probably reads correctly to really mess with you
 
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