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Finally had good time to finish. Only a few rides will show it’s good or “try again”… This “LPS Precision Clean” removed a lot of dirt on the outer tube that brake cleaner couldn’t. We have a stockpile of it at work, so I thought I’d give it a try.

Engine is running. Still no update on coolant since it has only idled for calibration. Forks still not back on. We are about to put the house on sale so we can move closer to stepsons school (after summer) so that takes some time away… Besides weather has been terrible (lots of rain and even...

Damn I thought you meant the cap itself… Feel pretty daft now since the drawing (using the special tools in the service manual) made me believe that I had to loosen something deep down inside the fork when, as you mention, its an M8 bolt in the bottom end…

Gary => Either you misunderstand me or I misunderstand you? The cap was the easy part :) The damping rod bolt… how do I remove it without a tool?

Service manual also mentions to start by loosening the cap. Still not sure how to loosen the damping rod bolt? Do you mean I just assemble the fork again (without tightening the cap too much) and then simply twist the top and bottom to make the damping rod bolt loose?

Following the Yamaha FZ6 Service Manual the disassembly of the front forks isn't exactly rocket science... But of course I run into the issue where I am missing a tool => Damper rod holder / 90890-01294 I can't seem to find a picture of this (best case also some measurements so I could make one...

So just leave number 1 as it is and sync the rest accordingly. Do you then adjust idle up to 4000 or have someone hold the throttle close to 4000 rpm (if it makes any difference? At 4000 rpm then adjust 2+3+4 to 1 and then (depending on your answer above question) idle down or release throttle...

Finally assembled (almost). Haven’t had so much time so took at while. Snowed a few days ago (about 6-8 cm) so that didn’t exactly make me hurry up either. Pressure tests didn’t reveal anything. Cleaned up everything as good as possible. Cooling system filled up with water (demineralised) and...

Energica has cleverly added a reverse function! I am 182cm tall with normal to semi-long legs (motorcycle pants have to be M with long legs). The weight of the bike at standstill felt quite fine to me. A big + is that biggest lump of weight (battery) is down in the middle so there is no +/- 15kg...

Sweet - Found out my uncle has a leak down tester from my late granddad (he was a aeroplane mechanic). Those two taught me a bunch of stuff. The tester should still be in good condition.

Gary => The thing that confuses me a bit is that I think, if there is a leak, it's between oil and coolant and not necessarily to combustion chamber. I will get hold of a leak down tester. I have a compressor that can reach 10 bar - especially if it's just to apply pressure and not a constant...

Picture attached! If I only have a leak between oil and coolant will the leak-down test tell me anything? Please explain the reference to test pressure? It’s not just a cauge to the cylinder is it?

Townsend => Bike is at my dad-in-laws garage so can’t as easily go to it… Oil looked fine - well it was brown and used but didn’t look like coolant was in it. Then again the coolant was also brownish and I thought it was rust (and acid old). Unfortunately I haven’t yet pulled the spark plugs...

Have never felt the need to do a compression test before as it was previously very clear, in a former older car, that the headgasket was finished. So I have to ask... How do I best perform this particular compression test? A cylinder compression test wouldn't really give me anything (I guess). I...

Had mine since 2008 - bought it 2nd hand. Added a few bits and pieces every 2nd year or so and mainly been used as a more enjoyable commute. You are all going to hate me for it but I am maybe not far from pulling the trigger on something very else... an Energica Eva Ribelle RS. I very very...

Most of it is just easy to scrape away or wipe with some cleaner. On the outside of hose connections (air contact) it’s worse. Unlucky combo of (maybe) not long lasting coolant and 6x 8-9 month seasons. In my head I was waiting to change the coolant till it made sense with next valve check...

Update Look what was a the bottom of the coolant reservoir. Let’s just say it looks like Nutella and not something else ;) Don’t have to look for something that’s rusty now. It IS the coolant that started to transform into acid sludge. Big cleaning job due… would have been a bit faster to...

No I didn’t think to check cause I only thought “some part is rusty”. Highly likely since draining the old coolant was overdue.

Surely! The magnet was just an extra... Still going for the plan you recommended.

It's itty bitty pieces - it's the worst trying to clean a magnet of very small pieces of metal particles, but then again I want it gone (at much af possible). Hmm maybe I should drop af magnet in the reservoir when doing the initial startup with distilled water.