engine cuts out

[vinmansbrew]

So, what would cause the engine to completely cut out when riding? Riding on interstate at about 80 and the engine just died like fuel was either cut off, or the ignition turned off. Power was fine till then, and it came back. I wasnt able to replicate it. So I am not sure what check out. Any common electrical failure?

 

[bricksrheavy]

The kill switch is a common issue - start from there [emoji106] In my experience when it starts going bad the best solution is either replacement or bypassing it by soldering the wires that go in it together.

 

[Motogiro]

Many members also service the kill switch.

As always check the simple thing like the connections right at the battery. The wires right at the ignition switch have been known to detach. Rare but it has happened, check the wires in the harness where they bend from the steering.

https://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/46996-cuts-out-steering.html

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just the engine quit, as if you activated the RED KILL switch correct, (other electric still worked)?

If so, typical red, kill switch bad connection-especially if you use it often..



https://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/58255-kill-switch-problem.html




.

 

[vinmansbrew]

I almost never use the kill. It's an 06 and I've probably used it less than 20 times. I'll check it though, I guess you never know. I thought I got it to slightly occur messing with the key, but it was once, so it may uave been coincidence.

 

[FinalImpact]

Verify the side stand switch too. If it thinks its down it will shut the engine off.

 

[vinmansbrew]

Well the kill seems fine. I was able to get the bike to die twice by messing with the wires just as they exited the ignition switch housing. I clipped the 2 zip ties and moved the wires and rezipped them. I wasn't able to get it to die a 3rd time after that.
Is the switch able to be dismantled and checked out? Otherwise, is there a good source for switches, and I suppose seat lock and tank lock?

 

[cook.675]

Is the switch able to be dismantled and checked out? Otherwise, is there a good source for switches, and I suppose seat lock and tank lock?

It comes apart rather easily for cleaning. Just a couple screws on the underside.

Be aware however that even if you clean it, it can still go bad.

Mine was bad and I cleaned it meticulously, then it crapped out again about 6 months later so I just jumped it and problem solved


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[TownsendsFJR1300]

Mine was bad and I cleaned it meticulously, then it crapped out again about 6 months later so I just jumped it and problem solved

Not what "just jumped it" means but did you replace the switch? (Just hot wiring it now??)

If so, were you able to "re-key" the switch to match your key or ?

 

[cook.675]

no my bad; i was speaking of the kill switch not the ignition switch


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[jaronv74]

So what's up with the kill switch on these bikes? I've only had my fazer since March but use my kill every ride and have put 7k miles on it already. Is this just a matter of time for mine to go out as well?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So what's up with the kill switch on these bikes? I've only had my fazer since March but use my kill every ride and have put 7k miles on it already. Is this just a matter of time for mine to go out as well?

Likely, yes... If you just stop using it, and just use the key it shouldn't be an issue.

I have 27,000 miles on mine currently, don't use the Red switch-(rarely) and no issues with it. It's never been apart or cleaned.


I honestly don't know why folks even use it... You have to turn the key off anyway (or have a dead battery). Using the kill switch
just makes it more likely you'll forget the key is on and again, a dead/weak battery.

I think it's taught in MC school, IMO, it really isn't needed except in certain situations..

Been riding 45 years, took several Advanced Police Motorcycle classes, rode "motors" (Harleys) in the traffic unit as well and never used it regularly..
Did use my "partners" kill switch riding side by side, smacking his KILL switch OFF while under way, (I got the same treatment!).

 

[vinmansbrew]

On some old bikes, the kill was just that. It killed the engine, but that was a long time ago. These days, the kill is just a backup in case some issue occurs where the throttle sticks open. It's easier to hit the kill than reach up and turn the key.

Anyways, does the ignition come apart easy enough? I'm not "cheap" but I prefer to fix parts instead of just replacing them.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Years ago, the FJR had problems with the ignition switch wires coming loose (Yamaha had a re-call).

Some guys were able to pull it apart and re-soldier. Do a search on-line, you should be able to find something.

About the only difference in switches was the FJR had a "parking position" (you could leave it with the tail light on AND secure the bike).

 

[vinmansbrew]

I will have to see what I dig up on that. Thanks

 

[ShoopCE]

I honestly don't know why folks even use it... You have to turn the key off anyway (or have a dead battery). Using the kill switch
just makes it more likely you'll forget the key is on and again, a dead/weak battery.

I think it's taught in MC school, IMO, it really isn't needed except in certain situations..

Scott,

Yep. The MSF preaches this as the correct way to stop the bike. I DO NOT use the engine cut off switch ever, so I don't always do this right while teaching. They teach it that way to make it part of muscle memory to reach for the cut off switch anytime you need to stop the engine, emergencies included, or especially during emergencies.

Chris.

 

[vinmansbrew]

So, I got it to cough a couple times yesterday. Looks like the switch will have to come off. Those 2 security "bolts', are they actually bolts, or are they rivets? Cause if they were bolts, I might be able to slot the head with a dremel and then turn them out. I suppose I could do what I saw on an fjr page and drill out the two small screws on the bottom, instead of removing the 2 large ones.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So, I got it to cough a couple times yesterday. Looks like the switch will have to come off. Those 2 security "bolts', are they actually bolts, or are they rivets? Cause if they were bolts, I might be able to slot the head with a dremel and then turn them out. I suppose I could do what I saw on an fjr page and drill out the two small screws on the bottom, instead of removing the 2 large ones.

Their security bolts.

I'd pull the switch myself..

Easiest way:
- Remove the upper triple
-Flip and re-set on the forks to hold it steady
-Center punch and drill the heads off the "rounding part"-Stop when the head is gone
-Switch will now slide off. Remove the drilled bolts with a vise grip as you have plenty of bolt sticking out to grab.

The switch connector I believe is under the tank/battery tray. Either do your work "up top" or un-plug and take to the bench..

Also, it's not likely a screwdriver (even if slotted great) will work. There should be some loctite in there. Just replace with say allen head bolts and loctite or get OEM, "shear off head" factory bolts if you want it OEM (once done)

 

[vinmansbrew]

Ish, I was hoping to not have to remove the stem nut. Oh well, I guess if it has to be done. Might still try to slot the heads and use and impact driver. If nothing else, part of the head will still be gone if I have to drill it.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ish, I was hoping to not have to remove the stem nut. Oh well, I guess if it has to be done. Might still try to slot the heads and use and impact driver. If nothing else, part of the head will still be gone if I have to drill it.

All of the heads (there's two bolts) have to be gone to pull the switch off..