Chattering on take off

[deathjam4]

Hi so i am new to the yamaha series bikes. I bought mine used at 36000 km. It is a usa bike and i live in canada.

So this bike was drove by a lady who basicly let mechanic shops maintain her bike and they did only the most basic of maintanice on it. So i already know and am planing to service my calipers*slightly sticky*, steering bearing* never been serviced*, wheel bearings*no clue if ever done but replacing regardless.*, fork seals* never been serviced*, swing arm bearing *never been serviced * and may even take top end apart and have it cleaned out and the throttle body.

This all aside i am also going to be checking checking the plug wires and replacing the plugs.

So i noticed something concerning the top end on my bike. I can hear on a dead stop heavy take off something that sounds like a metal sleave vibrating metal on metal and it sounds like it may be a valve or something in that area of the bike. It runs and drives preaty smoothly so i dont think its a valve. Also the bike ticks loudly during operation and gets worse the longer it runs. I seen am article about that but i figure in my case it may be a gummy system due to the lady leaving the bike sit in a garage or yard for nearly a year.

Any suggestions or insights would be great. I do all my own work and am lookimg forward to getting this bike in tip top shape. So any services people would recomend i do would be great as well.

Thanks from deathjam4

 

[Motogiro]

:welcome: to our great forum! You may need valve train service. If you're not versed/experience with this you can end up with catastrophic engine failure. We recently had a member do a cam chain tensioner replacement and the engine bent valves because the mechanical timing was off. Your valve lash check will be,IIRC, 38624 km.
You may need a cam chain tensioner (CCT) replacement. This may be the noise you're hearing. You may be bogging the engine on dead stop take offs which will create chatter. Any chance we can get a video? That may help us understand better what issues you have.

 

[deathjam4]

Yea sure ill make a video later when i get back to my bike. Also is this bike carburated or fuel injected ? i couldnt reallu tell but it looked fuel injected to me cause the assembly before the throtal body chatters alot during any time. And also has a control valve on it for idle. And thabks for the welcome.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yea sure ill make a video later when i get back to my bike. Also is this bike carburated or fuel injected ?FUEL INJECTED

i couldnt reallu tell but it looked fuel injected to me cause the assembly before the throtal body chatters alot during any time. THE THROTTLE BODY CHATTERS?? WE DEFINITLY NEED A VIDEO OF THAT

And also has a control valve on it for idle. THERE'S NO "CONTROL VALVE" FOR THE IDLE. THE IDLE AJDUSTMENT SCREW IS ON THE PORT SIDE OF THE BIKE JUT UNDER THE TANK.

And thabks for the welcome.

What year bike is this? Do you have the owners manual for it? If not, PM me with an e-mail address as I have it as a PDF with the YEAR..

Is the metal noise on hard take off or what about normal acceleration? Can you repeat this noise with the engine in neutral? RPM related?

 

[deathjam4]

so was reviewing my videos but my phone sucks at making them so ill be trying something else at a later date. But after checking my rear brakes and finding a botched boot that destroyed the slider with road crude i tried putting the bike on the center stand and duplicate it but the loud thunk seems more prevalent under load such as on its wheels. After i fixed the brakes on the back i noticed every time i braked hard i heard the loud thunk... Its almost like the engine is loose some where. If a bike is droped say on the left with out an engine guard is it possible to damage an engine mounting point?
Also took a picture down near the left side linkage of a bar that looks like it has some play and may possible be the slider bar for the rear arm??
I think i can tell a bunch of ticking is coming from my gear box. It sounds like a piece of paper on spokes in there when the bike is driving almost but its completely random. also i find the bike some times just thonks into gear even when i try to gently shift it into gear. not sure if its normal or if i need to make some adjustments. and the loud knocking defiantly sounds bad when the bike wants to try and stall on take off when the bike does not seem to want to go into gear. might just be me not putting enough gas to the throttle. sorry if i am a bit much but my ocd makes me get a little all over the place

 

[deathjam4]

Oh and the bike is a 2006 it came with all the orignal tools and books. Bike was dealer serviced up till the end of the first owner in 2008

 

[deathjam4]

yea i think i am bogging the engine its most prevalent during bogged start off's

 

[Motogiro]

Maybe your noise is not cam chain but instead drive line noise. worn sprockets and chain can make nice noises as well as not having proper chain tension. Do you have a service manual with specs?

There are lots of thread on adjusting the chain as well as chain/sprocket inspection.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Plus 1 ^^^ re the drive train.

Also, pull the front sprocket cover off and check that the nut that retains the sprocket is still there.
**There was a re-call for that nut as they came loose***.

Clean that chain, re-lube it and adjust so you have a total of 2" TOTAL, UP and DOWN at it's tightest point. ****This is the MOST NEGLECTED part of the bike and mis-adjusted (especially by new owners AND SHOPS)..

How many MILES on the chain and sprockets? Maybe some posted pic's of the sprockets. A neglected chain and worn sprockets WILL make a racket, especially accelerating hard.

Not sure what part in your picture your referring to. Can you either point or place a piece of tape on the part before shooting a pic?

The shifter linkage (partially in your pic) is a long rod that goes between the shifter lever and ENGINE gear box lever. The heim joints are under rubber covers. Clean and spray a bunch of lubricating (not WD40) oil inside each joint as they tend to seize (holding moisture). They shouldn't need adjustment..

 

[deathjam4]

Sorry was on the road when i posted this picture but i was referring to the part i just highlighted and pointed out with an arrow. I just decided to check my chain after reading this and its pretty gummy like old varsal so ill do a proper cleaning with a chain brush then take off the sprocket cover and take pictures. I think it defiantly has more then 2 inchs of play. The chain may be a bit new cause i can see signs of the wheel bolts been moved front to back at some point and its at mid point now but ill have to pull it out a little more i think cause there i think is nearly 4-6" of play in the chain. Pictures to come when i have a chance to do it. I am just driving back and forth to work every day its like a 5 minute ride so i should be ok till i get it in my shop tommorow. and replacement parts will likely have to wait a month or so till i have money. so one thing at a time and eventualy ill get there .

By the way i was on the left side of the bike checking spark plug wires and found the outer most one was nearly bent all the way back on it self .. do they do this in factory that way some times ? other wise it was some idiot mechanic that changed plugs and did not route the wire the right way. ill send a picture of that as well.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That bolt is the swing arm attaching bolt... It should NOT BE LOOSE.. Consider that like a LOOSE WHEEL..

4-6" of chain is way too much and your likely to throw it thru the engine cases or have it come off and get tangled in the rear sprocket-Either being catastrophic..

Did you look in your owners manual about adjusting the chain?? It's very easy to do, might take 20 minutes with the bikes tool kit, faster with "real tools"..

Again, do you have an owners manual?

As for spark plug wires, their short and as I re-call, the caps slightly angled.. And no, the wires shouldn't be bent back on itself. Pull it off, re-route as necessary and re-install. Some dielectric grease on the edge of the cap(where it meets the valve cover) will make installation and later removal MUCH easier. You should hear and feel a snap if the cap is fully on the plug..


**Either you or the shop needs to go over that bike completely. Between the chain, swingarm and odd unk noises your playing with fire.

 

[deathjam4]

Lol yea i know i am likely going to use the adjusters tonight to tightwn that bugger up just so i dont you know have the worst happen and yea ill likely have a good motorcycle tech go over it when i get some more money. I can ussaly spot an issue and fix it but the more deeply technical that requires special tools i leave to professionals. I know a few shops in my area and a full look over wil come i think during the winter. Till then i am just going to trouble shoot on my own. Once i have the safety hazards fixed i should be good.

Thank you all for all the great feed back i really apreciate it and love to bounce my thoughts off people when it comes to guess work.

 

[deathjam4]

Tonight i took the cover off the bike and was welcomed with this huge glob of old tary greeasey residue. Obviously this cover has never been removed ever.. Also this washer is bent how do ypu sugest i remove the nut and correct it. Cleaned out all the crud i could will be more in depth later but for now a tightening and de globing is all i can doso figure this baseball sized glob was what was holding my chsin and bike back during operation and was causing some of the issue. Unfortunately the loud ticking is coming from the gear box still and is it normal for the bike in neutral to for the bike to make the wheel roll slowly when you bring the rpms up? Thinking the clutch is maybe still partly grabing even with full depresion of the clutch handel

 

[Motogiro]

Looks like you need a new sprocket. If it is that worn your chain and rear sprocket should also be replaced. Good job getting it cleaned up. The clicking may be coming from the chain to sprocket wear. That washer is supposed to be bent. The washer has a keyway notch that slides into the output shaft. This keeps the nut from turning. When the sprocket is replaced you will need to unbend that washer and replace with a new one. Once your new sprocket is replaced, you will rebend the new washer against the flat of the nut.

When you adjust your chain slack with the old chain you will probably find the slack changes as you rotate the rear wheel. This indicates the chain is worn as well as the O rings and may not allow the links to relax.

Never clean the chain while the engine is running! I've seen injuries there is no turning back from

As already mentioned this work should be completed by an experienced person/technician. A driveline failure can put a rider and bike down really fast.

 

[deathjam4]

Yea i did every thing to spec seemed my back tire was slightly out of alignment which caused the slack this morning the bike was nearly silky smooth threw gears. I also shifted the shifter down a tiny cause i had to heal toe really high even with my thick bike boots. Once i get the time tho ill be striping it and cleaning every spec of tary gunk i can find.

Any particular stuff you guys use to clean your chains and left over grease off? The person i got the bike from had some motul chain cleaner but want to clean places like the sprocket. And plastic cover.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Some progress, good.

As noted above, don't remove the front sprocket or the tab that locks it on until your ready to replace the WORN OUT SPROCKET and Chain..

I use Motul chain cleaner myself along with a chain brush (has bristles on 3 sides). It's the best product I've found to clean the chain. When rinsing with water, do not use high pressure, it's not needed. just a light flow, let the chemical do the work.. The Motul will work fine in other greasy area's as well (including the sprockets).

A product called S100 works very well on grease and in tight spots too

And yes, the rear wheel will move some in neutral, on the center stand running.. It's just parasitic drag. Don't touch the clutch.

You should lube the clutch cable. If you can... It'll pull easier and shift better once lubed.


Reading and following the owners manual will make it much easier for you..

 

[deathjam4]

Lol i mentioned that on the first page in a separate talk box lol its a 2006 and yes i have the manuel lol. Been flipping threw it a lot lately hehe.

In all honesty tho eveything on this bike needs service so i been taking it one part at a time. When i do the swing arm ill be completely degreasing the back of the bike. As i believe this is the main source of thunking duringbumps.

Mean time ill be rerouting the spark plugs and checking them tonight. More pictures will follow as i go. By the way this this bike carberated? Seams fuel injected to me.

 

[deathjam4]

Some progress, good.

As noted above, don't remove the front sprocket or the tab that locks it on until your ready to replace the WORN OUT SPROCKET and Chain....

So what sprockets do you suggest. I think this one has a jt sprocket in it cause the stock one I don’t think has rubber on it. I was thinking of replacing it with the jt sprocket when I do it cause of the rubber bump it has on it.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So what sprockets do you suggest. I think this one has a jt sprocket in it cause the stock one I don’t think has rubber on it. I was thinking of replacing it with the jt sprocket when I do it cause of the rubber bump it has on it.

I'd stick with the OEM sprockets...

The OEM chain is also a very, very good choice and does NOT have a master link / attaching link-it's continuous.
*You do have to pull the swingarm back a bit to slip the new chain in ( a bit more involved) but again, no ML to get pressed.

Maintain the chain and sprockets and you'll get 20-25,000 miles out of them..


Your current front sprocket IS a Yamaha sprocket-No others have that plastic ridge the chain rollers touch..


Yours is a first here with posted worn swing arm bearings to your extent...
Depending on much it's moving, it'll affect chain tension as you ride, (not good).

Lastly, be careful putting the sprocket cover back on. It's VERY EASY to pinch the two wires (that are just forward of that cover) under the cover. Make sure you can see/touch them both after you put the cover back on..

 

[deathjam4]

Yours is a first here with posted worn swing arm bearings to your extent...
Depending on much it's moving, it'll affect chain tension as you ride, (not good).

Lastly, be careful putting the sprocket cover back on. It's VERY EASY to pinch the two wires (that are just forward of that cover) under the cover. on..

Yea I figured it more then likely had to be the bearings at 36000 and no lube it’s likely a huge mess in that swing arm. I’ll be ordering a sleeve seals bolt and bearings when I do it. And I’ll likely grab a new chain and sprocket when I do it.might as well I figure.

And yea I noticed those wires and was careful to not pinch um. I even shifted one up a bit so less of its slack was hanging below it when I put it togeather. So I’ll order oem parts for it later on when I do it. Think that service will likely run me a few hundred but he’ll i can do that service in my sleep. Only thing I am afraid of is the valve clearance check. I have a shop that I can trust with it but it’s still going to cost me a lot to have done.

I might do it myself as it gives me a chance to learn more about the bike. Spark plugs will get replaced when I rearrange the wires so the left side is not pinched so bad. If I can get my camera to work on record I may record the things I am doing. But I may need a better camera mine is only 9 mega pixels lol