How F'd am I??

[Redonthehead]

Heres the scoop so other day I start hearing timing chain tick so I put her on the stand remove tensioner screw it in take finger off and watch it do its thing its nice and smooth no jumping or anything put it back on fire this dog up and all hell breaks loose. nasty sound ya all know the one. I shut her down swear like a sailor then knowing the chain jumped time I took her all the way down pulled the cam cover and just like i suspected she had jumped time. big time. I installed new tensioner and new chain reset cams and crank to marks and put her all together fired her up and she runs but makes a hell of alot of noise now she never made b4. How F'd am I???

 

[Motogiro]

Well if you have bent valves your tappet clearances will be off and you're going to hear noise. Best to stop and look at compression/leak down to maybe help with the bigger picture.If valves are bent and not closing you may be hitting them with the pistons. I recommend not running the engine anymore and do tests by rotating engine by hand to eliminate possible additional damage.

If the engine shows evidence of interference with hand rotation, stop....

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Plus 1 ^^^.

You can confirm damage going to TDC (compression stroke) and doing a leak down test.

You can also measure your valve LASH. If the valves got bent, the lash will be MUCH GREATER than spec's (not closing fully due to bent valve stems).


* Also, what does this mean, quote: " remove tensioner screw it in take finger off and watch it do its thing" end quote. Did you pull the entire tensioner and run the engine, or ?? How did you see it "do it's thing":?

 

[Redonthehead]

I did turn the engine over by hand multiple times (per service manual instructions) did not feel any interference but I suspect it now has bent valves and I need a new complete head w/cams. but hey its got a new chain and tensioner LOLOLOL

 

[Redonthehead]

Plus 1 ^^^.

You can confirm damage going to TDC (compression stroke) and doing a leak down test.

You can also measure your valve LASH. If the valves got bent, the lash will be MUCH GREATER than spec's (not closing fully due to bent valve stems).


* Also, what does this mean, quote: " remove tensioner screw it in take finger off and watch it do its thing" end quote. Did you pull the entire tensioner and run the engine, or ?? How did you see it "do it's thing":?

well yes I pulled the tensioner (per service manual) screwed it in clockwise and watched the rod depress into the body holding it with my finger once its fully depressed you take your finger off and see if it snaps out smoothly if it doesnt its bad and needs to be replaced. mine was good but i had a new chain and tensioner so I replaced both as I was there anyway. No i did not run engine without it on there I am suspecting bent valves and need a new head I think what happened was when I put the old one in it didnt snap back out like it should have and now I am F'd

 

[Redonthehead]

Anyone know anyone with a good head they have sitting around collecting dust?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I believe Yamaha allows you to pull the tensioner W/O pulling the side cover BUT, there's always a chance(with slack in the chain) it can move a tooth on the crank.

You just drew a "bad hand"..

When I did my valve adjustment, I zip tied EVERYTHING (as the tensioner was out of course, side cover off) so nothing would move (except for the exhaust cam(which needed adjustment).

New valves ain't cheap either, IE: https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2008/fz6-fzs6xcl/valve

 

[FinalImpact]

Question; when you installed and seated the tensioner, did you have the tensioner fully retracted?

The outer body should fully seat to block and have the bolts snug before releasing the screw tension otherwise the chain will be stretched and guides damaged.

Please describe what you did and more about the sound. If the sound is chain hitting everything you'll find aluminum and plastic in the pan and filter.

If the noise is a lot of abrupt TAP TAP TAP, likely valves bent. As stated, do a valve clearance check.

Or did you do this already while the cover was off?

 

[Redonthehead]

Question; when you installed and seated the tensioner, did you have the tensioner fully retracted?

The outer body should fully seat to block and have the bolts snug before releasing the screw tension otherwise the chain will be stretched and guides damaged.

Please describe what you did and more about the sound. If the sound is chain hitting everything you'll aluminum and plastic in the pan and filter.

If the noise is a lot of abrupt TAP TAP TAP, likely valves bent. As stated, do a valve clearance check.

Or did you do this already while the cover was off?

Yes the outer body seated into the hole I am more than sure the rod did not snap back the sound was an ugly loud rattle chain sound and it died within maybe 3 seconds and when I took it apart to reset the cams and chain hoping I got lucky I had both guides out the looked okay no noticeable chunks of plastic out them the second sound after start up was like you said very distinct metal to metal contact TAP TAP TAP. I am going to pull it apart this week and take the head and have it looked at.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just a tip when you end up re-installing the tensioner (which I used on my last valve adjustment).

Should you have an extended unit(no retainer in the unit), I put the unit in the block(10mm CENTER COVER BOLT OFF).

Then, turn the center, small adjuster CLOCKWISE, while gently pushing the unit inward- Tighten the two outer mounting screws while holding it.

Tighten the center small screw again(clockwise), again gently snug down(just by fingers) the unit.

Repeat until the CCT is seated against the block. Just go slow, DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING...

Due to the limited space, this works great and you KNOW the tensioner is extended...

To double check your work, simply rotate the engine forward, by hand. You'll see if the chain is taught and if there's any binding / contact BEFORE pushing the starter button..