FZ6 New Tires needed, how to remove, first timer 10k miles

[Ital]

Hi All,
my stock tire need replacement. The bike has about 10k miles. The rear wheel is not bad and I thought I would be ok till the end of the season, but my front wheel is kind of bold in the center and I would be scared to drive with it in the rain, thus it is time to replace both. I made up my mind on the tire and I am going to go with the Pirelli Angel GT
I never done anything like this before, but I looked at some videos and I think I can manage getting the wheels off. I did buy for the front a 19mm hex tool so I should be good. However I do have some questions:

1) I can get the tires on Revzilla for the pair for $289 shipped but I do not know where to get these mounted and balanced.
2) There is a Cycle gear near me that I can get these but I am looking at about $395 installed
3) Can I take both wheels off or should I do one of them at the time?
4) Where can I get the wheels mounted and balanced? Cycle gear will do it for the $395 so will probably end up going there... otherwise if I buy the wheels from Revzilla, cycle gear would charge me $100 anyways to mount and balance...
should I try calling other tire shops? I just want to make sure it is done right.
5) From what I read on the forum I will need to lube the main rod, is something like this good?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPJMY8/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
5) I plan to clean the sprocket and chain while at it.
6) not sure if I am missing anything else.

Thank you all

 

[trepetti]

Hi All,
my stock tire need replacement. The bike has about 10k miles. The rear wheel is not bad and I thought I would be ok till the end of the season, but my front wheel is kind of bold in the center and I would be scared to drive with it in the rain, thus it is time to replace both. I made up my mind on the tire and I am going to go with the Pirelli Angel GT
I never done anything like this before, but I looked at some videos and I think I can manage getting the wheels off. I did buy for the front a 19mm hex tool so I should be good. However I do have some questions:

1) I can get the tires on Revzilla for the pair for $289 shipped but I do not know where to get these mounted and balanced.
2) There is a Cycle gear near me that I can get these but I am looking at about $395 installed
3) Can I take both wheels off or should I do one of them at the time?
4) Where can I get the wheels mounted and balanced? Cycle gear will do it for the $395 so will probably end up going there... otherwise if I buy the wheels from Revzilla, cycle gear would charge me $100 anyways to mount and balance...
should I try calling other tire shops? I just want to make sure it is done right.
5) From what I read on the forum I will need to lube the main rod, is something like this good?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPJMY8/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
5) I plan to clean the sprocket and chain while at it.
6) not sure if I am missing anything else.

Thank you all

So even before I say anything, I want to acknowledge that folks are going to poke fun at me ;-)

This year I decided that I was going to start mounting and balancing my own tires. Tired of the high prices charged by the local motorcycle shops. I was able to dismount the old and remount the new by doing this:

1 - Purchased a Harbor Freight bead breaker. With coupons cost about $30.00
2 - Once beads were broken, I removed old tires by cutting all around the sidewalls with a small, serrated pocket knife. The center section then comes right off, leaving just the beads on each side.
3 - The beads were easy to remove by hand. Pull a small portion of it over the edge of the rim then 'persuade' the rest of it off.
4 - I then used the Gorilla Tape method to install the new tires (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IeoMTg7bxvw&list=WL&index=17&t=726s). Hint - make sure you have some Dawn dish soap.
5 - I have a small air compressor, so seating the beads of the new tires was really simple.
6 - To balance, I decided to try something different. I bought 3 bottles of 'Ride-On' tire sealant. I had my wheels powder coated over the winter, and i wanted to see if I could avoid using stick-on weights. This stuff worked! With no weights on the wheels, the bike rides at least as smooth as in years passed when I had the tires balanced by a shop.

Overall, nothing was really hard to do, I saved a ton of money, and I didn't have to wait till the shop had time to work on stuff.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Hi All,
my stock tire need replacement. The bike has about 10k miles. The rear wheel is not bad and I thought I would be ok till the end of the season, but my front wheel is kind of bold in the center and I would be scared to drive with it in the rain, thus it is time to replace both. I made up my mind on the tire and I am going to go with the Pirelli Angel GT
I never done anything like this before, but I looked at some videos and I think I can manage getting the wheels off. I did buy for the front a 19mm hex tool so I should be good. However I do have some questions:

1) I can get the tires on Revzilla for the pair for $289 shipped but I do not know where to get these mounted and balanced. Go around to your local cycle shops and get prices. My local independent shop charges about $15 mounted and balanced EACH, OFF the bike. Often, the shops will match or come very close with the price AND include mounting.
2) There is a Cycle gear near me that I can get these but I am looking at about $395 installed

(3) Can I take both wheels off or should I do one of them at the time? You can remove both at the same time. Put the bike on the center stand, then a sissor jack under the header(it won't hurt anything). Just go slow and be careful as the bike is now balanced on the CC and jack.



(4) Where can I get the wheels mounted and balanced? Cycle gear will do it for the $395 so will probably end up going there... otherwise if I buy the wheels from Revzilla, cycle gear would charge me $100 anyways to mount and balance... A bit expensive
should I try calling other tire shops? Yes. I just want to make sure it is done right.

5) From what I read on the forum I will need to lube the main rod, is something like this good? If you mean the axles, yes, just a lil and that grease will work fine.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPJMY8/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

5) I plan to clean the sprocket and chain while at it.

6) not sure if I am missing anything else. Just pay attention to the rear wheel re-installation. It's real easy to miss the tab on the swing arm (see below picture)

Thank you all

Do you have an owners and shop manual? You Tubes are often good but you need specific's for re-tightening bolts. Also, the cleaned and lubed CHAIN needs to be adjusted to the proper 2" TOTAL up and down at the tightest point.


Rear brake bracket MUST be installed as shown below..


*BTW, My tire changes are the ONLY thing my shop see's me for and the wheels are removed already.
My friend / mechanic (known for well over 25 years), is the ONLY person I allow to mount the tires. He know's there's a $5.00 tip for NOT scratching the rims and to date, they are NOT scratched/nicked, look new... They also do them while I wait...

 

[Ital]

I do not have a shop manual. Thanks for the Rear brake tip. I will start by taking off the front wheel. Not sure if I feel comfortable taking both wheels off, so I will do one of them at the time....

 

[Ital]

man those 12mm caliper bolts were on super tight and I stripped one of them
can you help me find a new one? Would I be able to find one at an auto parts store or will i need to go by Yamaha dealer?
I thought i was going to struggle with the 19mm bolt but that one was super easy... go figure...

Thanks!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The front caliper bolts (S2) ?.

Is the bolt THREADS stripped of the hole stripped? Or the bolt broke off in the caliper?

They are metric so you can bring one of the other good ones to the hardware store to match up.

 

[FinalImpact]

^^ I would go OEM. You have bike shop near you?
The bolts are higher grade than most hardware store bolts and the should (shank area) is larger and threadless.

Order on line and have them delivered. Install new later. It's not to say a HW store bolt won't work, be sure to find the higher grade bolts, something better than patio furniture. Just because its SS that doesn't make it high grade.

PS do not pull / push brake levers while the wheels are away as you'll have to depress the piston calipers to get the disk back in.

Also - slide a long 2x4" under the rear tire to support it and control motion as you will be fitting the chain, wheel, brake caliper to disc, brake bracket to swingarm all it once.
Take your time, look and think about how easily it came apart.
Last little bit when snugging the axle bolt, tap the rear wheel forward in the adjusters. No need to move the position of adjusters unless the chain tension is out of spec.

Good luck and double check everything....

 

[Ital]

the bolt is still on, just the head is a bit stripped, did not want to make it any worse. Got all the other 3 off, but they were on extremly tight I had to use leverage with the pole from my jack, and it was still difficult. Maybe they had loctite on
It was my mistake as the socket was not straight on it. I removed the side reflector after that first one so the socket could fit better, but it was too late
I bought a 12mm bolt extractor, but once it is out I need a new bolt. Yamaha dealer is very far from me and opens late and closes early so if I could order it online it would be easier, just having a hard time finding the bolt online.

 

[Ital]

I think I found it, this looks to be correct to me

https://www.partzilla.com/product/y...MIxN_Kvbz64QIVC1YNCh1o8QNTEAkYASABEgKH9_D_BwE

part number 90105-10638-00

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I think I found it, this looks to be correct to me

https://www.partzilla.com/product/y...MIxN_Kvbz64QIVC1YNCh1o8QNTEAkYASABEgKH9_D_BwE

part number 90105-10638-00

That's the correct part #, #4, https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2008/fz6-fzs6xcl/front-brake-caliper . I order all my parts from Partzilla.

Agreed with FI, get the factory bolt when you can.

Lastly, either hammer on an impact socket onto what's left of the bolt head OR use a VISE GRIP brand vise grip.


*Worse case scenario, if you access to a MIG welder, WELD a NUT (held over the problem bolt) thru the middle, (plug weld). Obviously, cover everything well, disconnect the battery. Spray cooling water in the immediate area.

Between the heat, and if a good weld, that bolt WILL spin out easily.

*

 

[Ital]

I ended up ordering this, hopefully it does the trick....
https://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Grip-1859106-Irwin-Tools-Performance/dp/B00LFRRKT6

 

[trepetti]

If I were you I would also take the time to check other fastners. I don't recall if the bike is new to you, but I can tell you that in 2012 when I bought my 05, I also rounded a bolt doing my first maintenance. Turns out the previous owner had only 1 way of putting fasteners in. Way too tight. I spent some time loosening and re torquing bolts to spec. Locktite on those that required it, and anti sieze on some others. If you have a torque wrench and a portable radio I recommend you do it as well. Otherwise, a six pack and a torque wrench weilding friend will do the trick as well.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Ital]

If I were you I would also take the time to check other fastners. I don't recall if the bike is new to you, but I can tell you that in 2012 when I bought my 05, I also rounded a bolt doing my first maintenance. Turns out the previous owner had only 1 way of putting fasteners in. Way too tight. I spent some time loosening and re torquing bolts to spec. Locktite on those that required it, and anti sieze on some others. If you have a torque wrench and a portable radio I recommend you do it as well. Otherwise, a six pack and a torque wrench weilding friend will do the trick as well.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I do not think that is the case. I bought the bike with 300 miles on it, 3 yeas ago. I do not think the original owner did any maintenance on it. For sure though the bolts were on with some type of white\grey loctite and probably were seized a bit after 11 years. I bought 4 new bolts just in case. Should I add loctite back or is it not needed? At the rate I ride I will need new tires every 2 to 3 years. The car is always garage now, it was bought new in 2013(from the title), I bought it in 2016, but I am sure for a couple of years at least it was stored outside.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Do NOT use Loctite on them...

In your shop manual, under each specific section (IE Ft Brakes), will be a picture with the parts, torque spec's and what, if ANYTHING to use on the threads.

That particular fastener doesn't take Loctite.

 

[Ital]

Do NOT use Loctite on them...

In your shop manual, under each specific section (IE Ft Brakes), will be a picture with the parts, torque spec's and what, if ANYTHING to use on the threads.

That particular fastener doesn't take Loctite.

Thanks will do. The specs call fro 29 ft lb, i can tell you for sure it was more like 150ft lbs to get those MF off.... I had to use my jack pole on top of the wrench and I had to put almost all my weight on it.... not sure how that happened... and that is for a small 12mm bolt

 

[trepetti]

Never create a theory that contradicts observation. They were not tightened that much during assembly. Someone over tightened them. Do yourself a favor and re torque everything. It will bring peace of mind and give you a chance to find out if there are other fasteners you need to replace. Better to find out now than to have simple jobs in the future become more complicated and more time consuming. I ended up replacing a few fasteners when I did it. Now when I do maintenance I know what to expect.

 

[Ital]

The Irwin bolt extractor worked. Best $6 spent
I got the front wheel off. Thanks for the help

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks for the update!

Just dropped $40 for the entire set! (I'm a tool junkie)..

 

[Ital]

ok guys I got the wheel replaced. Thank you all for the help. FJR13 thanks for the picture about the rear brake, i referred to it during the install
I also aligned my rear wheel, but it was odd that the right side of the bike was kind of lose when it was aligned and i had to push the wheel forward against it and then tighten my axle bolt and then it would be perfect it aligned with perfect tension. It is my first time dealing with motorcycles but I am assuming that is correct, but if someone can reassure me that would be good for piece of mind

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You, (I) usually have to kick the right side of the tire forward as the chain IS pulling on the left side... Just make sure both adjusters are touching the axle once done..

*Just make sure you have 2" TOTAL UP and DOWN play at the tightest point (rotating the chain whi9le on the center stand).


You did good!