Fluctuating idle. Sound like a big cam

[Murdock]

I picked up a laid over 2007 FZ6 with only 3200 miles recently and started working on a few modifications.
Here is what I have done so far.
1. K&N air filter
2. Dominator cat delete down pipe
3. Some Chinese Trash knock off Exhaust ( don’t judge me lol )
4. Power Commander Fuel controller
I am trying out one of the maps for open exhaust and cat delete. Forgot what brand it is for.
It runs through the gears pretty damn good.
The problem is when it idles. It sounds awesome but runs like it’s chugging for fuel or gasping for air. I was going to leave it be until I started practicing doing some full lock turns and the chugging was unpredictable. No low speed maneuvers for now.
The thing is I almost think it’s getting to much fuel.
All the values on the 0 percent throttle side are “5”
I talked to the local dyno guru. He said he could get it sorted out but I kind of like to figure out if there is anything I can to to tame it.
I have my idle set about 1200 to 1300 rpms

Any ideas?

 

[Motogiro]

:welcome: to our great forum!

There are a few things that you might do to help alleviate the condition but keep in mind you've lost a lot of back pressure for a 600 cc engine. All of the mods you have are pointed towards a motor that is supposed to gain ponies at open throttle. Idle is going to be different. Many manufacturers build exhaust control valves into their systems so that when needed, back pressure is released when required and the system can return to a more docile attitude where back pressure and sound pressure are kept more within street standards a regulations.

A tune is in order for your setup. This will require a reputable tuner with proper equipment to keep healthy A:F ratios. The other way is to, and I hope this doesn't hurt feeling, guess. It may be possible to get into the CO adjustments and add what you need but again, how will this effect the larger picture of what is a healthy mix for your motor.

I spent hundreds on my FZ6 with a controller, exhaust, air filter and a professional tuner on a dyno. I wanted a healthy A:F so we kept the tune less aggressive. I saw about 4 hp rear wheel gain. I spent the bucks and the bike ran so good but again It was lots of money for the gain.

Search here for CO adjustment and if you cant get it, talk to your friend. I'll assume it's not, but if your controller is an EX model it won't adjust in the lower rpm range. The other part of having a sniffer in the tail pipe is knowing if your controller is making the percentage changes in the mix that the map reflects.

 

[Ital]

I personally would replace the plugs. I had a similar issue and the bike had only abut 1k miles and the plugs did it for me.
At low RPM it ran a bit rough and it felt like it was misfiring a bit, but as soon as I gave it gas it ran like a champ.... go figure... it was getting worse and worse over time so I just yanked those spark plugs out and it fixed the issue... Also you should get the following done...

https://www.600riders.com/forum/how-to-s-/30125-enable-co-adjustment-usa-only-lean-richen.html

 

[Motogiro]

Here's an example of possible failure if you actually don't know what mix ratios you have and are changing fuel management and reducing back pressure.
https://www.600riders.com/forum/gar...power-loss-highway-backfiring-post641742.html

Sent from Moto's Motorola

 

[FinalImpact]

Or just lift the tank and turn all 4 idle sync screws the same amount until the idle stabilizes.
When happy, call it done.

If it stalls when coming down from higher revs you may have to tinker some more.