Riding with a Passenger

[gtosteve65]

Hi All,
So I've had my FZ6 for close to 3 years now. One thing I have still been unable to do is shift smoothly with a passenger on back. Especially going from 1st-2nd I just expect a wack in the back of the head. I know that the clutch grab point on these bikes is in a terrible spot, but when I am alone my ride is smooth. Throw someone on the back and its like a bucking horse. Any suggestions on improving this or is it just the nature of the bike?

 

[Gary in NJ]

With the bike 125-150 pounds heavier, it decelerates faster than when you are solo. Don't shift while the rpms are raising. For example, if you are going to shift at 4,000 rpm, hold 4k for a second before shifting. This will reduce the rate of deceleration.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I find a blip of throttle between gears helps too.

Smoother / slower on the clutch too...

 

[gtosteve65]

My clutch is definitely made using binary code. Its either on or off. Every other bike I have owned has had a large grab period, and I could smoothly go through the gears. On the FZ its like a race bike. But like I said, by myself its smooth, with a passenger its terrible. I will definitely try to hold an RPM for a second before changing gears to see if that helps.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My clutch is definitely made using binary code. Its either on or off. Every other bike I have owned has had a large grab period, and I could smoothly go through the gears. On the FZ its like a race bike. But like I said, by myself its smooth, with a passenger its terrible. I will definitely try to hold an RPM for a second before changing gears to see if that helps.

Might want to check the cable for any potential failures pending. I noticed some "dragging or slight binding" while lubing the cable.

What I later found, at about 23,000 miles, ALWAYS lubed (excessively actually).

You can also put the FZ 07 clutch lower, ENGINE lever on: https://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/57952-clutch-slave-lever.html

I did, definitely a longer engagement zone, slightly easier to pull. I ended up putting the "stocker" back on, didn't care for the longer zone, shifts faster with the OEM lever.. Note, the FZ-07 lower lever does NOT have the punch mark for alignment like the stock lower lever.

But a new cable and lever will transform the bike. (at least lube the cable if NOT frayed and no excess drag / fraying)

 

[Gary in NJ]

I find nothing unusual about the FZ6 clutch. I'd check the condition of your clutch. What oil do you use? Most automotive grade oils cause clutch problems.

 

[TKBone]

Hi, this helped mine:
Rising the idle rpms a bit
Adjusting TPS to 18
Cutting the snorkle of the airbox
Adjusting Chainslack

No guarantee, only my experience! Now I'm going to ride with my gf
Greetings and good luck!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Plus one, ^^^ on loose chain slack. Keep it close to 2", cleaned and lubed.

A loose chain and loose throttle cable makes for a sloppy shift.

 

[gtosteve65]

My clutch cable is new as of June. I use Yamalube 10-40 oil. I am always a fan of a tighter chain, so I already keep it on the tighter side of the spec. I should check the TPS, maybe that will help. It just seems like when I get off the gas the bike decelerates super fast, almost like the brakes are on and then once I click into the next gear and come off the clutch its nothing... and then bam its fully engaged.

I've checked both front and rear brakes to see if they are hanging up. While I do plan on changing the seals this winter, they still allow me to rotate the tire about 2.5 - 4 times before it comes to a stop.

Its just so odd because on my Seca I can try and screw up a gear change and yet it still feels smooth. The FZ feels like its go a clutch from a racer in it.

Bike is about to hit 20K if that means anything.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks for the above..

How many RPM's are you generally shifting at?

 

[gtosteve65]

Depends on who is on back, but normally with a passenger around 6-7K. By myself I actually shift at lower RPMS usually between 4-5K.

Yes I know that is super low but I guess it just is because of my car driving instincts. :spank:

 

[TKBone]

In my understanding it's called fuel cut-off and adjusting the TPS makes the CPU think, that the throttle is a bit Open (when it is not), so that may help. Shifting at 4-5k rpm you have very little power, max torque is at 10k i think and max HP at 11-12k. It took me some time (came from 2 cylinders) to get used to it but I highly recommend revving higher!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Depends on who is on back, but normally with a passenger around 6-7K. By myself I actually shift at lower RPMS usually between 4-5K.

Yes I know that is super low but I guess it just is because of my car driving instincts. :spank:

I normally shift at 4k (90% of the time), maybe 5k

The higher the RPM's, the more you'll get the "effects" between shifts if not super smooth.

A throttle blip between shifts usually makes things smoother too..

And yes, bumping up the TPS, the engine thinks the throttle is open MORE (adding slightly more fuel) than it actually is.
I'd probably try bringing it back to spec's (just to rule it out).

 

[gtosteve65]

I guess its time for me to break out the service manual and look into the adjustment. For all I know it could be out of wack!. I have my idle set for 1200 RPM, I know it says in the book 1300 RPM but I live in a very hot South Carolina, so I try not to produce any more heat when stuck at a light. The FZ seems to be a pro at radiating that heat onto me.

 

[TKBone]

With my leather on the additional heat is not a topic (because I am already almost melting). '

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Try riding a Gen 1 FJR ("the heater" ) in the summer in SW Florida....

The FZ has air conditioning compared to that.. Nice in the winter thou!

 

[gtosteve65]

I could only imagine how hot it must be on that bike. Once I get off the highway and get stuck at my first of endless lights, I can tell that I am cooking from the legs up. Once the fan turns on its even worse! :rockon:

 

[Motogiro]

A clutch slave lever may help with clutch control. I think Killernoodle (member here) was making them as well as the lever from FZ07 from Yamaha being an alternative lever that will give a little better clutch control.
Physical attributes of rider and pillion will generally help govern riding experience. Education is another factor.

When my wife first rode with me on the FZ6 she would try to readjust her butt just as we would come to a stop. Naturally as the wheels are turning much slower there is less gyro effect and the bike is less stable. I told her to not wiggle around until we were completely stopped with my feet planted. That really changed the experience. So communication and education can play a big part.

 

[Gary in NJ]

As long as we are talking about passenger etiquette, this little bit of information passed from rider to passenger makes for a much better riding experience.

To see your passenger has to look around your helmet. To ensure that you passenger is riding with you and not against you (putting their weight into the turn) it's good to tell your passenger to make sure that their helmet is on the same side as the turn.

 

[gtosteve65]

I agree that communication with the passenger is super important. One of my low speed falls in life was actually with a passenger on the back. I have no idea if they moved or if I messed up, but we went from going straight to sitting on the ground. Frame sliders prevented any extensive damage, only the stator cover got scratched up.

I really don't believe it is "my" clutch control.... since on all my other bikes I've never felt such a wild ride with a passenger. I think its the clutch on this bike being so binary. Its either on or off.