May My Fz6 Rest In Peace

Paydrow

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Hi everyone!

Just thought I'd drop in and extend a warm thank you and perhaps goodbye to all you wonderful people who provided me with invaluable resources to maintain my motorcycle.
I tried to limp my way over the 100k mile mark, but at last, I must throw in the towel 12k miles shy of my goal.

I went down Aug 3rd of 2016. Mostly cosmetic with a dash of pride.
IMG_20160803_182459.jpg
IMG_20160803_182505.jpg

I zip tied it together and rode it a month and a half later after deciding my insurance wasn't going to do squat.
Well shortly there after, it began failing. Would die at lights. Would stumble on 3 cylinders unless I pinned the throttle. Time was tough to come by, so I bit the bullet and took it a local shop.

7 MONTHS later, and $1200 worth of "guessing" it turned out to be a coil, which I had suspected from the start and had mentioned it upon delivery but was quickly dismissed.
I put another 1000 miles on it before the problem returned.

This is a photo of the last 400+ mile trip I took before it failed on me. Can't even tell it's zip tied together!
IMG_20180514_081355.jpg

This time, I took it down to the Yamaha dealer and within a week, found out my bike was not worth fixing.
Compression numbers are terrible. Cylinder 3 has a 16% leak!

The reason I'm writing this is because I'm having a hard time deciding on what to do with the carcass of my bike. The plastics are junk, the front fork is leaking, and the engine doesn't work. I found an engine for $700 with 37k miles on it and I was curious to know if it was worth fixing up with the intention of selling it. It probably won't get touched till next year, but I really don't know what one does with a piece of junk.

've spent the last few weeks searching for a new(to me) motorcycle.

The s1000xr was entirely too much motorcycle for me.
The low 1200gsa was PERFECT, but way too expensivo ($28k) and also, a bit of an overkill.

Shooting to take the Tiger800 and maybe possibly a Tracer GT out for a spin. Thoughts? I love crunching miles, hitting the occasional fire road, and riding 2 up.
 
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Motogiro

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Sorry to hear the bike is sick. Not servicing the valve lash is a good place to start losing compression and burning valves. The FZ6 will do over 100k.
Don't say good-bye cuz we are known for keeping friends regardless of the pony you ride. Good luck on your resolve what ever it may be.:)
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Re cylinder #3, where is the leak coming from? 16% is not good but not terrible either.

The leak down test on each cylinder (if properly "read") will let you know what's leaking.

As noted above, too tight a valve will leak, IE exhaust valve leaking-you'll hear air coming out of the exhaust. Rings-crankcase, etc..

If all the valves are too tight, compression will be low...
 

Paydrow

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I did find a red 06 up at a dealer in Santa Cruz with 3700 miles and I was considering it, but I think I'm ready to move on to something else. If mine was still in working order, I'd ride it into the ground. :D
But my goal was to eventually purchase something I wouldn't mind dumping regularly in the dirt.
I'm shooting to visit Alaska next year and I didn't find much when I searched to see if any Fazers had made it up north.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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I can search for his notes later tonight. Are you saying there may be slight chance I'd make it to 100k?

Yes... A leak down test is WAY MORE helpful than just a compression test.

It tells you what the issue(s) are. You may just need a valve adjustment or worse case, valve job (if the valves were burned from being too tight).

IF he did a leak down test, he should have documented what he found in each cylinder and of course tell you why the engine is toast.

15% leak down is the general # percentage on what's acceptable. Your just beyond that and very little at that.


Just a side note, I was given a 2 stroke weed eater (wouldn't run past 1/2 throttle and crappy). Compression showed it a little low.
A leak down test showed major leakage at the piston ring. You could hear air escaping into the crankcase, and the drop was about 35%.

Pulled the engine apart, the piston ring was carboned up (stuck to the piston/not sealing) big time. Cleaned it up, re-assembled, got leak down % to approx. 5%. Ran great after that (from 3,500 RPMs to over 7,000 RPMs WOT) and sold it...

Also, Yamaha make a commercial grade (Marine division) that shops often use (marine) for carboned up engines saving MAJOR $ in repairs.

https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-ACC-CLEAN-D1-00-Internal-Clnr-ACCCLEAND100/dp/B009460FYM

From a Yamaha outboard forum I frequent:
De-carbonizing Engine - Yamaha Outboard Parts Forum
 
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MIJ_FZ6

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I'm shooting to visit Alaska next year and I didn't find much when I searched to see if any Fazers had made it up north.

A Ninja 250 has made it up to Alaska. Actually from San Diego to Key West Florida, back to San Diego, to Alaska and back to Cali. The FZ6 would be just fine :)

[video=youtube;RVxoVEMTXp8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVxoVEMTXp8[/video]
 

Paydrow

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I'll try my best to make sense of his scribbly mess. And I can always call him back if any of this needs further clarification.

Ignition coil primary,secondary, and caps test good resistance

Compression- Spec 220(191-246) - High compression in 3 cylinders possible carbon buildup
1 240
2 230
3 210
4 255

2+3 Failed Leakdown test
1 2%
2 10% intake/r??
3 16% intake/rin?
4 4%- rings

Possible damaged intake valves
Possibly workout and held open because no valve lash. Check/adjust valves might help.
Overhaul may be needed.

Additional diagnostic time might be needed after top end repair.

3hrs from here to ADJ valves and recheck leak down.
If no improvement, rebuild top end (12hrs+)
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Thanks for the info...

He didn't apparently check to see where the leak down going doing literally half a test.

When was the last time the valves (clearances) were checked? Those #'s are not all that bad.

IMO, besides the clearance question (which is basic maintenance), if everything points to carbon build up,
that product ( Yamaha-ACC-CL.../dp/B009460FYM ) will very likely get rid of most of the carbon and clean up the rings.

Please read the forum link I provided. Member "Rodbolt" is a Master Tech, 3 decades experience, and has used this stuff
which is extremely potent. For $50, removing the spark plugs, and using it, (you can do this yourself), I'd sure try it...

Worse case scenario, the engine WILL run better. Should fetch your $50 back and then some should you sell it..
 

Paydrow

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I did look into that product. Sounds like Seafoam on steroids. I'd definitely spend the $50 just out of curiosity. And I had done the valves a few thousand miles ago but now It's got me worried that I possibly read them wrong. Although I triple check all my numbers before purchasing the shims.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Yep, Sea foam is a good product but NOTHING like the Yamaha stuff...

As a side note I use Yamaha's "RingFree" in all my gas engines (SUV & bike included). It's a top end and fuel system cleaner which works very well:
https://www.shopyamaha.com/product/details/ring-free-plus?b=Search&d=34&nw=yamaha-motor-company

However it's applied normally at 1 oz /10 gallons. You can use a shock dose of 2oz / 1 gallon if need be. Even this would help (also about $50 quart).

In your case, I would do the commercial grade stuff.

Good luck and please report back with the results..
 

bigborer

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If the rings are seized, some good old fashion "high RPM loading the engine" could do wonders. Just make sure to have good quality oil, and not do anything stupid (a track day would be ideal).
 

Paydrow

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If the rings are seized, some good old fashion "high RPM loading the engine" could do wonders. Just make sure to have good quality oil, and not do anything stupid (a track day would be ideal).

My last ride was a 35 mile ride with the throttle pinned and the bike barely holding 65mph at max.
 

Paydrow

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Yep, Sea foam is a good product but NOTHING like the Yamaha stuff...

As a side note I use Yamaha's "RingFree" in all my gas engines (SUV & bike included). It's a top end and fuel system cleaner which works very well:
https://www.shopyamaha.com/product/details/ring-free-plus?b=Search&d=34&nw=yamaha-motor-company

However it's applied normally at 1 oz /10 gallons. You can use a shock dose of 2oz / 1 gallon if need be. Even this would help (also about $50 quart).

In your case, I would do the commercial grade stuff.

Good luck and please report back with the results..

I went ahead and purchased the Yamaha stuff from Amazon couple days ago. Should arrive sometime this week. Any tips on how to use that stuff?
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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I went ahead and purchased the Yamaha stuff from Amazon couple days ago. Should arrive sometime this week. Any tips on how to use that stuff?

Just follow the directions.

I've never used it however the Master Tech I mentioned earlier, posted badly carboned up engines, this stuff fixes better than 90% of it with no tear down.
 

bigborer

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Armored jacket and pa....;)

Probably 6th gear

Going in 6th at 65mph with the throttle pinned doesn't do much for loading the engine, and it will very possibly do harm, as it'd imply a very rich fuel mixture.
 

FinalImpact

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Coils that ohm good, well thats good but it doesn't mean they pass an electrical load test.
Hop on fleebay and grab some new used coils, verify the caps are snug on the wires and try them. Likely out more in shipping than the cost of the coils.

When it hits on all 4, you should be be good. And If you happen to stumble on a spare ECU for cheap grab it.

The whole ignition is the battery, off switch on the bar (switch fails often, bypass it), ecu, and coils. So if you are missing spark, it's one of these. The run stop being a known weak link.

Good luck.
 
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