Fz6 shut off mid ride

BitesWhenBitten

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Was coming back from a group ride, ridden four hours no problem. Got to the last stop, got gas, started making my way home, got the bike on the expressway and it suddenly began to lose power. I mean everything LCD, engine, all turned off. I pulled in the clutch, it came back on and off a few times. Got it onto the side of the road, as soon as I hit the hazards it went off for good. My usb charger indicates there is still power at the battery. Taking key out, attempting to restart produces nothing. No LCD, no attempt, nothing. Bike showed 185 for engine temp.
Any direction would be appreciated. Am waiting for a trailer to get here.

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BitesWhenBitten

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Update: after about fifteen minutes of searching forums, checking my oil, and other dumbness. Tried to turn it in again, for whatever reason it cooperated. Bike responded fine. Turned over without an issue. Just got it home

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TownsendsFJR1300

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Check you battery connections and main fuse.

If those check out, get the battery load tested. You may have a dead short in the battery.

It's something electrical
 
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Motogiro

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I agree with Mr. Scott. It sound like there is an intermittent path. The main fuse should be located on top of the battery. Ckeck the fuse and all associated connectors to and from the battery area.

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BitesWhenBitten

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I'm having my mechanic come over to look at it together. I guessing a dirty fuse, as a blown one would not allow me to start the bike again. I know the terminal connections are solid because I did them. And if not the fuses, I will take the battery for testing as suggested.

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Motogiro

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I'm having my mechanic come over to look at it together. I guessing a dirty fuse, as a blown one would not allow me to start the bike again. I know the terminal connections are solid because I did them. And if not the fuses, I will take the battery for testing as suggested.

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Have the ignition switch and the harness around the steering checked. Everything that failed requires integrity of the ignition switch. If the harness has a break in it it could very well emulate the intermittent behavior as well as a broken solder connection at the bottom of the ignition switch. The internal ignition switch contacts could also be fouled.
 

BitesWhenBitten

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Lol, cannot believe that posted mid type.
Anyways, when I checked my oil on the side of the road, it looked fine, although I keep in mind it was hot. Today, cold, it kept showing at the bottom quarter of the meter. The oil was changed maybe two months ago. So obviously I filled it to the appropriate level. I've placed towels beneath the bike to observe whether it is a leak or if it is burning. But I would like to know at what point does the oil light usually kick on?

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TownsendsFJR1300

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Lol, cannot believe that posted mid type.
Anyways, when I checked my oil on the side of the road, it looked fine, although I keep in mind it was hot. Today, cold, it kept showing at the bottom quarter of the meter. The oil was changed maybe two months ago. So obviously I filled it to the appropriate level. I've placed towels beneath the bike to observe whether it is a leak or if it is burning. But I would like to know at what point does the oil light usually kick on?

That switch won't kick on until the oil level is WAY BELOW the dip stick. It's a simple oil LEVEL SWITCH.

It's NOT an engine kill switch if it activates.

It has NOTHING to do with your issue..
 

BitesWhenBitten

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That switch won't kick on until the oil level is WAY BELOW the dip stick. It's a simple oil LEVEL SWITCH.

It's NOT an engine kill switch if it activates.

It has NOTHING to do with your issue..
I'm aware that it has nothing to do with the issue. However, it is concerning considering that the bike is basically brand new according to the odometer. We will see if it is leaking or burning.

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BitesWhenBitten

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So I had cracked everything open. Found my negative terminal was loose and my USB charger was bent on the terminal. I fixed this and went on my merry way. Took it out for the first time since the shut off. The bikes seriously lacks compression now. At 5000 rpm it sounds like it did at 10 previously. I have to get into third gear to do fifty without it screaming. Is this a blown cylinder? Is there anything I can do, or should I just get a new bike and scrap this one?

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Motogiro

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Your ignition coils are in the area of the battery. Is there a possibility an ignition coil wire was pulled? Did the bike have a power issue before it was worked on?
 

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It hasn't had a power issue that I'm aware of. There was a time when the LCD would turn off, but the bike rode fine and that hasn't been a problem since the fairings were rebuilt. I just dropped it off at a yamaha dealer to see what they say. I accept that this is totally possible, but I wouldn't recognize it if I saw it I don't think. I had lifted up the gas tank, I know there are wires there as well, is that a possibility?

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Motogiro

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The ignition coils are directly below the battery area.
The dealer might give you accurate information but be cautious as technologies and honesty seem to be escaping our culture.

Sent from Moto's Motorola
 
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BitesWhenBitten

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Thank you, I will do my best not to get cheated. But honestly, they could cheat me a little and I'd be OK with it if the gremlins left.

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BitesWhenBitten

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Oh! And I paid ten bucks to run the VIN, since I've had so many issues with it, I wanted to see what the owner history was really like. First owner didn't even put in 2,000 in seven years, the next two account for another 2,000, then myself.

So the odometer is accurate, which makes this case all the more strange, mechanically it should be sound in theory.

It's never been in a reported wreck or any marks against the title at all. As far as I can tell without speaking to the previous owners (something I don't have access to), it's always been in running condition.

And at the very least I know the abuse I put it through was 99% cosmetic and immediately addressed when I did induce an issue.

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OG MayMay

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You're supposed to check the oil with the bike warm and on the center stand, so that may have been why your oil level was low if you checked it cold. I'm guessing that's because a certain amount of air will mix with the oil and increase the volume when warm.
 
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Motogiro

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You're supposed to check the oil with the bike warm and on the center stand, so that may have been why your oil level was low if you checked it cold. I'm guessing that's because a certain amount of air will mix with the oil and increase the volume when warm.

I think it's more because the physical volume of the oil increases with temperature?
 
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