R6 forks, axle, spacers/adapters for 07-09

[MattR302]

SOLD!

Everything you need to upgrade the forks for a Gen 2.
Forks from a 03/04 R6 (it took me buying a few sets on eBay to actually get a good straight set)
I replaced the seals and the oil last spring, about 1500 miles on them since. I had the axle spacers (stainless steel) and the fender adapters (aluminum) made by a machinist at my last job. M10 washers for the caliper spacers.

 

[MattR302]

Also, if anyone is interested and local-ish to CT, you're welcome to ride to my house and I'll help you install them!

 

[MattR302]

Sold..........

 

[MattR302]

No interest really?

 

[swedespeed]

What would be involved to put these on my '05?

 

[MattR302]

What would be involved to put these on my '05?

You would need the brake calipers from either the 07-09 FZ6, the 03-04 R6, or the 06-09 R6S (all the same) - the calipers on your bike will not mount to these forks.
You'll also need different adapters to mount your stock front fender. Or I believe you could use the R6 front fender.

 

[swedespeed]

You would need the brake calipers from either the 07-09 FZ6, the 03-04 R6, or the 06-09 R6S (all the same) - the calipers on your bike will not mount to these forks.
You'll also need different adapters to mount your stock front fender. Or I believe you could use the R6 front fender.

Gotcha, thanks. Probably more work than I'd like to do now that riding season is upon us. If you still have these at the end of season (Oct/Nov) I will probably still be interested.

 

[bigborer]

It's not that bad, especially as your avatar shows no fairings on the bike.

It shouldn't take you more than 3 hours for the full job. Jack the bike up, remove wheel, fender, calipers, fork legs (20-30 min), carefully remove the old brake fluid (15 min), reinstall new fork legs, wheel, fender, calipers (40min-1h), put new brake fluid and bleed (15-40 min).

Only brake bleeding is a bit tricky (at least for me it was as some air remained trapped in the OEM line splitter), but this would be a great time to also put "race" (meaning 2 fully independent) steel braided lines, which will make bleeding very fast and easy. While you're at it, I'd also remove the caliper pistons and at least clean and grease with special brake rubber grease- this could be done before starting the work on the bike to reduce the "bike offline" time.

 

[FinalImpact]

It is some of the best money you'll ever throw at this bike.
Even if you have to grab calipers and a fender.

Sadly you will then find out the rear needs help. But once doe, night and day transformation for those who have the opportunity to play in the twist
S....

 

[swedespeed]

Trust me, I want to do this pretty bad. Tough to find free time with 2 young kids and an enormous to-do list!

 

[swedespeed]

These are a great deal from a great seller. I can't buy them right now but Matt is a great guy to work with and anyone who grabs these is getting an amazing deal.

 

[FinalImpact]

It only takes a few more minutes than pulling the wheel.
The exception being cutting the fender and swapping calipers if you have an early model.

 

[trepetti]

Everything you need to upgrade the forks for a Gen 2.
Forks from a 03/04 R6 (it took me buying a few sets on eBay to actually get a good straight set)
I replaced the seals and the oil last spring, about 1500 miles on them since. I had the axle spacers (stainless steel) and the fender adapters (aluminum) made by a machinist at my last job. M10 washers for the caliper spacers.
$425 shipped to the US.

Your inbox is full. I think i am ready to make the jump. Pm me when you can receive messages

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[trepetti]

PayPal sent. Thanks

 

[FinalImpact]

PayPal sent. Thanks

Good call!
If you ever find the nose beating at the tarmac like a jack hammer when going downhill and braking hard (usually into a required turn), simply overfill the oil by 1.25 to 1.5" and for me the problem has never returned.

Mind you when/if it does happen, don't fight it. Relax, let off the brakes and lean.

Enjoy...

 

[trepetti]

Good call!
If you ever find the nose beating at the tarmac like a jack hammer when going downhill and braking hard (usually into a required turn), simply overfill the oil by 1.25 to 1.5" and for me the problem has never returned.

Mind you when/if it does happen, don't fight it. Relax, let off the brakes and lean.

Enjoy...

Thanks Randy. I remember reading your thread a while ago and will keep an eye out. Really stoked. Waiting to see what the calipers look like so I can determine if they need refreshing. I put my parts list together for new seals, retainers, pins and clips and will rebuild in the off season before install.

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[FinalImpact]

Thanks Randy. I remember reading your thread a while ago and will keep an eye out. Really stoked. Waiting to see what the calipers look like so I can determine if they need refreshing. I put my parts list together for new seals, retainers, pins and clips and will rebuild in the off season before install.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Fleebay calipers?
Keep in mind the early R6 caliper pistons are all the same size. The S2 FZ and R6S the leading piston is slightly smaller to promote even pad wear from end to end.

Just want to make sure you have the right parts.

Also IIRC the spacers needed to center the calipers over the rotor are 0.110" ... but this really only matters if you want to get every molecule of pad when wearing to the limit.

Once the fender is cut (S2) and you have calipers ready (S1), its only a couple hours to install them. I'd suggest starting w stanchion tubes above the triple by 6mm each.
Ride and get the rebound setting good (no pack down on bumpy stops) then add suitable compression damping so it doesn't bottom on your worst roads or during heavy braking. Throw rip-tie around the stanchion and push it down to determine how much travel is being used.

Oh and SAG. You get to set that now. Start a thread and do a little shout out if you need input.
Enjoy!

 

[Gary in NJ]

Ride and get the rebound setting good (no pack down on bumpy stops) then add suitable compression damping so it doesn't bottom on your worst roads or during heavy braking. Throw rip-tie around the stanchion and push it down to determine how much travel is being used.

Ideally you want to use 80-90% of available travel under heavy braking. The zip-tie is your gauge. If you are using more than that, you'll need to raise the oil height and if your aren't using enough available travel you'll need to remove some oil. Make changes in 10mm increments and keep good records of the changes and the result.

Oh and SAG. You get to set that now. Start a thread and do a little shout out if you need input.

Sag can be set on all forks. It's just a matter of making adjustments to the preload spacer. I think what you meant to say is "you can EASILY set that now". Start with a spacer that allows 10mm of preload. Assuming that your spring rate is correct, 10mm of preload will give you ample adjustability at the fork cap adjustment. BTW, I have adjustable fork caps on my damping rod (now GVE) forks, so any fork can take advantage of easy adjustability.

 

[FinalImpact]

Yes it can be on all forks but when its not easy that leaves about 5% of the people who do it. Most don't even measure sag for the sake of keeping track of change.
Just being realistic. Again, starting with the proper spring rate is critical to having a vehicle that performs to expectations and isn't upset by basic flaws in the road surface.