Extract bolt from camshaft cap? As bad as it sounds...

[mbtaylor01]

This is what happens when you use a cheap torque wrench:



In case you can't tell, that is a valve cover bolt stripped off deep inside. My torque wrench didn't click, and I wasn't intelligent enough to stop tightening the bolt.

I don't know whether I should attempt to drill it out. Seems very risky, like it could damage the cap.

The valve cover bolt is the middle one closest to the front tire. Can I just throw my torque wrench in the trash, get a quality one, and use the other five bolts?

Lesson learned...

 

[darius]

No drilling needed. The head sheared off as designed through too much torque. The threaded portion of the bolt is not fastened and should come out using an "easy out" bolt extractor kit ~$5 from Autozone/hardware store. With an easy out you just tap the extractor into the remains of the bolt and back it out.

Look up the bolt in Yamaha parts fische for a replacement unless you want to try matching up at a hardware store.

 

[Motogiro]

Why did you have the valve cover off? Did you work on the valve train and if so did you use that torque wrench on the cam shaft caps?

I imagine that threaded hole is a blind hole but If the bottom of the hole became distorted for the reason there was a mishap tightening too tight I would pull the cap. Below that bolt is the cam bearing surface.

You should center punch the center of that bolt. Then start with a 1/16 inch pilot drill, being careful not to drill through the bottom of the bolt and on through the cap. Once you have your pilot hole you can pick the correct drill and easyout to finish extracting the broken remaining bolt.

Unless you had remaining exposed thread above a surface to grab on to, I don't see how you could get that piece out unless you could walk it out, counter clockwise with a center punch or drill and easyout. Be careful not to scratch or mar the cap bearing surface when you work on this.

Finally, get yourself a decent torque wrench in the range you are working in. Make sure you are familiar with inch pounds and foot pounds. When replacing the cap follow the torque specification.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

It's not a hardened bolt but make sure you pull the cap off the engine (and don't drill with the cover off/part installed).

I just removed 1/4-20 broken SS bolt(cheap as it was soft). I used a reverse drill bit and then the largest easy out that would fit.
Zipped right out..

That stud is very likely NOT tight as it probably didn't bottom out so it should be fairly easy.

If any doubt to your abilities with it, bring it to a machine shop as if you bugger up that cap, it, and the head is NOW useless...

 

[mbtaylor01]

Thanks everyone for replying. :thumbup:

I had the cover off because I was checking my timing and valves. Townsends knows all about this; he's been helping me a lot in a thread I started earlier (updates to come after this is finished). Can I remove JUST the one cap (removing the four bolts gradually in a star pattern)? Would that bind anything up?

I've been debating whether to remove the bolt myself but I think I'm going to outsource it -- a shop quoted me $15-30 if I brought the cap in to them.

 

[mbtaylor01]

Never mind! I could have sworn the bolt was jammed in there yesterday but I just now gave it a little tap and I got it wiggled out (metal expanded/contracted overnight? ). Again, thank you everyone! I would have been lost without you all.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Never mind! I could have sworn the bolt was jammed in there yesterday but I just now gave it a little tap and I got it wiggled out (metal expanded/contracted overnight? ). Again, thank you everyone! I would have been lost without you all.

Excellent!

Didn't think it'd be tight..