I want to replace my spark plugs

Johnson

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Not sure when the last time it's been done, my 05 FZ6 has about 33K miles on it and 10K of them are from me. I also don't have the tool and it seems pretty important based on the thread that everyone points to (How to: Replace your sparkplugs in 20 minutes - Sportbikes.net) but curious if it can be done without it?

Also anyone have a particular place they recommend to purchase them? I was just going to use cheapest on ebay.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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If you have the factory tool kit, there's a socket in there that works fine.

If not, a deep, 6 point, 3/8" drive socket will work fine too...A little bit of tape INSIDE the socket will make a slightly snug fit (to the plug) for easier removal (you won't drop it back in the hole)...

Installing the new plugs, attach a piece of plastic/rubber tubing to the top of the new plug. Now you can gently put the plug in the recess without dropping it / cross threading, etc..

When removing the caps, DON'T PULL OFF by the WIRES but by the boot itself.

A little bit if dielectric grease on the inside of the cap AND EDGE OF THE BOOT (where it seals against the valve cover) allows the cap to be re-installed much easier. You'll also hear / feel a click that the cap is on fully (very important)..
 
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Motogiro

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Also,: Do not let the parts person tell you the plugs are set to the proper gap. Set them to the specification called out in the manual.
Spark plug gap for OEM plug:
0.6–0.7 mm (0.024–0.028 in)
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Just to add to the above, as I re-call, for the double ground plug, you'll need a WIRE feeler gauge as the grounds are curved on the "inside"..

BTW, (IMO) I'd stick with the OEM plugs, the iridium's DON'T last forever. I'll be replacing my iridium's with stock plugs next change.
 

Johnson

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Just to add to the above, as I re-call, for the double ground plug, you'll need a WIRE feeler gauge as the grounds are curved on the "inside"..

BTW, (IMO) I'd stick with the OEM plugs, the iridium's DON'T last forever. I'll be replacing my iridium's with stock plugs next change.

Any specific place you recommend buying the OEM plugs from?

Also when I purchased bike original owner did not provide tool kit (and not under the seat), will dig around to see if I have that deep 6 point 3/8" drive socket
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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I got mine from the local auto parts store. They had to order them and I had them the next day.

Usually a bit cheaper too than the MC shop. I'd suggest getting the factory NGK plugs, not the equivalent..

Also, you can do the plug swap W/O loosening the radiator and tilting it forward but be prepared to shed some blood on your knuckles...

I was able to get my inch lb torque wrench in there as well. EVERYTHING, is done from the right (clutch) side..
 

VEGASRIDER

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Also, you can do the plug swap W/O loosening the radiator and tilting it forward but be prepared to shed some blood on your knuckles...

I was able to get my inch lb torque wrench in there as well. EVERYTHING, is done from the right (clutch) side..

It's even worse on an 05, at least on an 07, there is more of a gap between the radiator making it easier to swap out the plugs. This increase in gap had consequences though, many got small pieces of gravel stuck in their radiator fan causing it to stop working. Never an issue with the older models.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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It's even worse on an 05, at least on an 07, there is more of a gap between the radiator making it easier to swap out the plugs. This increase in gap had consequences though, many got small pieces of gravel stuck in their radiator fan causing it to stop working. Never an issue with the older models.

Fixed that potential issue on my '07 with an aluminum guard:



 

zixaq

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As for where to find the plugs, do go to an auto parts store. I pay $5 apiece at O'Reilly's, but substantially more anywhere online that I've found, and usually twice that at the MC dealerships.
 

jdmlude

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Didn't want to start a new thread so piggy backing off this one.

Are you guys gapping .6 or .7mm on a stock setup (or w/ exhaust)? Anything to be gained one way or the other?
 

Motogiro

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Didn't want to start a new thread so piggy backing off this one.

Are you guys gapping .6 or .7mm on a stock setup (or w/ exhaust)? Anything to be gained one way or the other?

Spark is generally effected by voltage from the coil, compression and gap between the anode (center conductor) and ground. The factory spec for gap is good.:)
Spark plug gap for OEM plug:
0.6–0.7 mm (0.024–0.028 in)
 

MIJ_FZ6

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What NGK part number are you using? Isn't there an option for standard and iridium plugs? I'm ordering a bunch of refresh items, might add this to my list.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Didn't want to start a new thread so piggy backing off this one.

Are you guys gapping .6 or .7mm on a stock setup (or w/ exhaust)? Anything to be gained one way or the other?

Gap them to the tight end of spec's. The gap opens up as the plug wears.

Doesn't matter about the exhaust, no gains or losses with .1mm difference..
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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I "up-graded" to Iridium's awhile ago.

The stock plugs were in great shape (past due), and I haven't found the iridium's to last longer or perform any better...

Next change, STOCK, OEM plugs go back in...
 

MIJ_FZ6

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Im going to stick to what the manual recommends. My bike is a 2009 with ~5K miles. Mileage is no where near needing to replace the plugs but should I consider replacing them just due to their age?
 

jdmlude

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Im going to stick to what the manual recommends. My bike is a 2009 with ~5K miles. Mileage is no where near needing to replace the plugs but should I consider replacing them just due to their age?

I personally wouldn't change them before they're due. Waste of money, unless of course you're experiencing issues.
 

Heywood

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Just did my plugs last weekend. A little over 10k on the original NGK's. They don't look bad other than out of spec, coming in at 0.825mm. I thought the bike sounded different after installing iridiums but I don't ride if full time, son does. I did note the boots didn't go back down as far are the iridiums a couple mm longer?
3J2PD1Z.jpg
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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^^^

Good info (same as what I found way back, exactly) but your boots should go all the way down...

If you put some dielectric grease (very light coat) where the rubber boots meet the valve cover and a little inside the boot, they'll go on much easier and FULLY.

You'll actually hear the caps snap on. Their very likely NOT on fully and may cause issues.. Grease em up!!
 
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