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  1. #1
    FIZZER6 (OP)
    The Angry Blue Mantis FIZZER6's Avatar
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    Cool 04-09 FZ6 FORK OIL and seal replacement - With Steering Head Bearing Swap!

    We had a need for a FZ6 specific write-up on the front fork seal and oil replacement and I have until the end of February to get this done so may as well start now! This job gets you so close to the Steering Head bearings you may as well do that as well with ALL BALLS Steering Head bearing kit #22-1004
    This is in progress as of Jan 22, 2015 and pictures will be added to the 1st several posts as things progress! Check back for updates!

    First, TOOLS & SUPPLIES:

    1. Fork oil (You need 1 Liter of Fork Oil) Stock is 0-2.5wt. I went with 5wt. You can safely go with 10wt if you want the front end to dive slower. The draw back is if you go too heavy on the fork oil your front end will not do as well on bumpy roads when leaned over due to slower rebound rates. 5wt. oil is a good compromise for riders under 200 lbs.
    I went with Maxima. It's cheap on Ebay


    2. Fork Seals and Fork Dust Seals. I would get a kit. OEM is expensive and ALL BALLS brand is only around $20 shipped so I went with them! The All Balls kit you want is part # 56-135


    TOOLS:
    1. screw drivers
    2. assorted metric hex drives. Get the 3/8" socket type. Allen keys are a pain in the backside!

    3. metric sockets and box end wrenches, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm are mostly what you will be using.
    4. Large zip ties (to reattach your cables to the forks).

    LET'S GET STARTED!

    NOTE: YOU CAN SKIP TO STEP #5 IF YOU DO NOT WISH TO REMOVE THE FRONT FAIRING!

    #1: Remove the seat. Remove the rear gas tank pivot bolt and the 2 allen bolts at the front edge of the tank, slide tank back, raise tank, support tank and replace pivot bolt.


    #2: Remove inner fairing pieces (6 stainless round head allen bolts and 2 plastic screw clip under the mirror rubber bases).

    This is the little plastic screw under the mirror rubber bases you must remove


    #3: Disconnect the (2) wire harnesses on the LEFT side of the fairing. Note, you may need pliers to get the smaller harness disconnected. There is only 1 tab that has to be pried up and then the 2 halves of the connector will pull apart. If it's difficult I found it easier to remove the fairing and set it on a stand to the left of the forks and then disconnect the connector.


    #4: Remove the (2), 12mm bolts that hold the fairing bracket to the triple-tree mount. Carefully remove the fairing.

    Ignore the gray boxes mounted inside my fairing. Those are my HID ballasts for my dual bi-xenon projector headlights.

    #5: ONLY IF YOU WILL BE REPLACING STEERING HEAD BEARINGS - break the upper steering stem nut loose. Cut the zip ties holding the cables and brake line to the upper forks. Break the upper fork clamps bolts loose but do not remove bolts yet.

    (Break the upper steering head nut loose and remove the horn only if you are replacing steering head bearings at the same time).

    #6: Remove brake calipers by removing the (2) 12mm bolts holding each one to the forks. Hang the brake calipers on the bike using bungees or wire to keep them from hanging on the lines.


    #7: Remove pinch bolt for front axle from right fork. Use a 19mm male hex drive or the back end of a 19mm spark plug socket with 19mm wrench to loosen axle. Do not remove axle or wheel until you have supported the bike under the exhaust headers!

    #8: Remove front fender. (1) Philips screw bolt and (1) 8mm bolt on each side. Set fender aside.



    TO BE CONTINUED........................
    Last edited by FIZZER6; 02-12-2015 at 05:54 AM.
    Put my bike out on the highway
    feel that wind all in my face
    breathe some air that tastes like freedom
    let that be my saving grace
    I believe it's time for me to ride...

  2. #2
    FIZZER6 (OP)
    The Angry Blue Mantis FIZZER6's Avatar
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    Re: 04-09 FZ6 FORK OIL and seal replacement!

    #9: Support the exhaust headers of the bike using a small jack and block of wood or a cinder block and a piece of wood the right thickness to support. REMOVE FRONT WHEEL and set aside.



    #10: Carefully loosen the fork end cap that you previously broke free while still in the clamps. If you forgot to break it free reinstall into lower clamp, break loose and then remove. Hold a rag over the fork end cap while hand loosening as there is a small amount of spring tension under the cap.



    #11: Carefully Drain the fork oil into a container while holding the inner tube that will try to fall out when upended. Once most of the oil is drained, carefully remove the inner tube, washer and main spring, in that order and lay aside on something absorbent. Do not mix up parts! Keep the parts for the right fork together and labeled! Each fork is stamped "R" or "L" on the lower inners.


    Pump the fork a few times slowly and don't bottom it out fully. Let it drain upside down for about 10-20 minutes.

    Last edited by FIZZER6; 02-09-2015 at 12:10 PM.
    Put my bike out on the highway
    feel that wind all in my face
    breathe some air that tastes like freedom
    let that be my saving grace
    I believe it's time for me to ride...

  3. Thanks tejkowskit thanked for this post
  4. #3
    FIZZER6 (OP)
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    Re: 04-09 FZ6 FORK OIL and seal replacement!

    Steering head bearings moved to new thread! SCROLL DOWN FOR STEP #12 OF FORK OIL REPLACEMENT
    Last edited by FIZZER6; 02-09-2015 at 12:16 PM. Reason: MOVED
    Put my bike out on the highway
    feel that wind all in my face
    breathe some air that tastes like freedom
    let that be my saving grace
    I believe it's time for me to ride...

  5. Thanks Motogiro, tejkowskit thanked for this post
  6. #4
    FIZZER6 (OP)
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    Re: 04-09 FZ6 FORK OIL and seal replacement!

    Scroll down for #12
    Last edited by FIZZER6; 02-09-2015 at 12:16 PM.
    Put my bike out on the highway
    feel that wind all in my face
    breathe some air that tastes like freedom
    let that be my saving grace
    I believe it's time for me to ride...

  7. Thanks tejkowskit thanked for this post
  8. #5
    FIZZER6 (OP)
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    Re: 04-09 FZ6 FORK OIL and seal replacement!

    #12: Remove the Damper Assembly from the forks:

    First you will want to find a solid wooden stake with a width of about 1 inch. A pointed stake like this worked great for me! You will push the stake into the fork until it contacts the damper assy. inside. Pressing the stake firmly into the damper will jam it enough to allow you to remove the end bolt that holds it inside the forks.



    Here's the end bolt you are loosening.






    Once you have removed the end bolts, slide the damper and short section of spring out and remove the end bolt and its copper washer. I would definitely replace this copper washer as it's what seals the fork oil from leaking out at the axle! At the very least you should coat the threads of the bolt under the washer with RTV to prevent a leak when you reinstall. The copper washer is Yamaha part# 90430-10171-00. I found the washers on Ebay for about $5 for 2.



    Since splinters of wood may have gotton into the damper when you used the wooden stake to jam it, you need to clean the damper really well as any debris can cause problems later! I rinsed mine well with diesel fuel and then hit it with an compressed air to dry off. Brake cleaner would also work.

    #13: Pry off the dust seal. Careful not to scratch the inner tube.
    [url=https://flic.kr/p/r2JnEt]

    #14: Use a pick to remove the inner seal retaining clips. Don't try using a screwdriver. A proper pick will save you a lot of problems on this thing! Trust me.
    [url=https://flic.kr/p/r2zmN2]

    Retaining clips removed:
    [url=https://flic.kr/p/qZrfmh]

    #15: Place the forks in a vice. Grab the inner tube and pull upwards, away from the lower tube. I found it easiest if you pull up till you feel the inner spacer make contact with the inner seal, then lower the tube a couple inches and pull up quickly to impact the seal. Do this repeatedly and it will slowly hammer up the inner seal.
    [url=https://flic.kr/p/r2Dygf]

    [url=https://flic.kr/p/r2znci]
    Last edited by FIZZER6; 02-09-2015 at 12:10 PM.
    Put my bike out on the highway
    feel that wind all in my face
    breathe some air that tastes like freedom
    let that be my saving grace
    I believe it's time for me to ride...

  9. Thanks tejkowskit thanked for this post
  10. #6
    FIZZER6 (OP)
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    Re: 04-09 FZ6 FORK OIL and seal replacement!

    #16: Clean out the inner tube with diesel fuel or spray out with brake cleaner to get ride of any remaining crud in there.

    Make sure both of the copper allow rings (brushes) on the inner tube are in good condition.

    #17: TO REASEMBLE: Coat the copper brushes with fork oil. Install the bottom cap inside the hole in the end of the inner tube, turn the outer fork tube upside down and insert the inner tube.

    Install The main oil seal from your kit, flat face up. Grease the inner surfaces of the seal and make sure the inner tube is wiped clean before installing and slide the seal all the way down till it makes contact with the outer fork tube grove.
    Use a seal driver, pipe of the right diameter or a custom driver like I did to drive the seal in with a mallet. I used a 2" piece of sch40 PVC with about 10 slits cut lengthwise down the first 8" of one end. then used duct tape to taper the end down to a diamter that would fit over the inner tube, contact the seal and not hit the outer tube edges. Worked great! Make sure your oil seal is fully pressed in and then pop the retainer rings back in place. MAKE SURE THE RINGS ARE FULLY IN THEIR GROOVES!


    Install the Dust seal in the same way. Be careful not to damage the edge of this seal with your driver!


    #18: Slide the damper rod with small spring down the inner tube in the same way it came out of the tube originally.
    Use your stake you used previously or a piece of rebar with a cotton rag wrapped over the tip like this and duct taped in place to push down the inner tube and hold the damper rod in place while you install the end bolt with new copper washer.




    #19: Measure your fork oil. 04-06 forks take about 467mL or 0.49 US Quarts.


    Support the fork assembly so it can't fall over and add the fork oil slowly.


    Once the oil is added, grasp the outer tube with 1 hand and the inner tube with the other hand and slowly pump the fork all the way extended and all the way compressed, several times to get any air bubbles out of the damper. Compress the inner tube FULLY, Let the fork sit for a few minutes and then measure the depth to the oil from the top edge of the inner tube. Should be 5.28" more or less. If it's 5.25 or 5.3" don't worry about it, the key is that both forks need to be the same amount of oil so get one done and then make the second match it.


    #20: Install the main spring! NOTE: THE SERVICE MANUAL SAYS TO INSTALL THE MAIN SPRING WITH THE TIGHTER COILS (CLOSER PITCH) AT THE TOP OF THE FORK! MY 2006 SPRINGS WERE INSTALLED UPSIDE DOWN FROM THE FACTORY! I PUT THEM BACK IN WITH TIGHTER COILS UP TOP AND HANDLING IS BETTER PROBABLY PARTIALLY FROM THIS AND PARTIALLY FROM THE HEAVIER OIL.


    Install the washer and spacer as they were. Extend the inner tube fully!


    Grease up the O-Ring on the end cap and thread in by hand. You will have to compress the spring slightly to get the threads on the cap to grab. Tighten by hand until snug. You will torque the top cap once the forks are installed on the bike.


    DONE!!!!
    I had painted my lower fork tubes black with Plasti-DIP while I had them apart. If you wanted to paint yours the best time would be before reassembling the forks!


    Reinstall the forks in the reverse order or removal on the bike. The upper and lower clamp bolts are to be torqued to 22 ft lbs. Make sure each fork is flush with the upper clamp faces.
    Last edited by FIZZER6; 05-22-2015 at 08:02 AM.
    Put my bike out on the highway
    feel that wind all in my face
    breathe some air that tastes like freedom
    let that be my saving grace
    I believe it's time for me to ride...

  11. Thanks tejkowskit, SandyN, ozgurakman thanked for this post
  12. #7
    2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone FinalImpact's Avatar
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    Re: 04-09 FZ6 FORK OIL and seal replacement!

    Looks like you're having fun now!
    Good job!

    A couple of suggestions to add to the above - mainly for safety to reduce risk of tipping.

    1) Before removing anything and while bike is on side stand.
    - * Loosen Fork Caps. If they don't move easily, loosen TOP pinch bolt. Snug pinch bolt once done so you fork stays in place.
    - Loosen axle pinch bolts
    - Loosen axle. Place wrench/breaker bar so you're pushing towards the ground! Not forward or backwards as this may cause the bike to fall.
    - Loosen brake calipers. Same as above. Push towards the ground.
    - Loosen lower triple clamp pinch bolts

    - Loosen triple nut << ONLY IF DOING Triple Bearings

    2) Per thread title, keep a section just for the fork work required ( - Fork oil/seal replacement only).
    > Loosen per above while on side stand.
    > Leave fairing (if equipped), bars, and fuel tank in place.
    > Lift and nose, block chassis; remove the following - (insert your details).

    As you were and thanks for the write up!
    Last edited by FinalImpact; 01-26-2015 at 12:44 PM. Reason: * FORK CAPS! lol Loosen while held by triple!!
    08 Raven w/a few mods...
    R6 Forks, R1 Rear Shock (revalved), 6 Ignition Advance, S1 CAT free Header, SS Mid-Pipe, 2Bro Exhaust, AIS block off plates, Bazzaz Z-Fi Fuel Controller & Z-AFM Data Logger, Air Box mod, CR10E Plugs, 48-Tooth Rear Sprocket, FZ1 Bars, Spider Grips, Adj levers, Powder Coated -Triple, Bars & Rear Sets, Solid mounted rear-sets w/knurled pegs, Dual Headlight, Tail Tidy, LED Combo Brake & Directionals, LED POD lights & Tinted PUIG Wind Screen!

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  14. #8
    FIZZER6 (OP)
    The Angry Blue Mantis FIZZER6's Avatar
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    Re: 04-09 FZ6 FORK OIL and seal replacement!

    Quote Originally Posted by FinalImpact View Post
    Looks like you're having fun now!
    Good job!

    A couple of suggestions to add to the above - mainly for safety to reduce risk of tipping.

    1) Before removing anything and while bike is on side stand.
    - Loosen axle pinch bolts
    - Loosen axle. Place wrench/breaker bar so you're pushing towards the ground! Not forward or backwards as this may cause the bike to fall.
    - Loosen brake calipers. Same as above. Push towards the ground.
    - loosen lower triple clamp pinch bolts

    - Loosen triple nut << ONLY IF DOING Triple Bearings

    2) Per thread title, keep a section just for the fork work required ( - Fork oil/seal replacement only).
    > Loosen per above while on side stand.
    > Leave fairing (if equipped), bars, and fuel tank in place.
    > Lift and nose, block chassis; remove the following - (insert your details).

    As you were and thanks for the write up!
    Thanks for the tips! I do believe I'm going to divide this into 2 write-ups once I'm done (Fork oil/seals) and (Steering Head Bearing replacement).

    Good idea on the pre-loosening. I used an electric impact on must tight stuff so it was not a big issue for me.

    Are you saying you can leave the fairing and bars in place for the fork oil swap? that makes sense to me. Since I was doing the head bearings it makes it much easier to show in pictures with the fairing and bars out of the way.
    Put my bike out on the highway
    feel that wind all in my face
    breathe some air that tastes like freedom
    let that be my saving grace
    I believe it's time for me to ride...

  15. Thanks Motogiro, FinalImpact, tejkowskit thanked for this post
  16. #9
    2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone FinalImpact's Avatar
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    Re: 04-09 FZ6 FORK OIL and seal replacement!

    Correct; there is no need to remove the fairing. Just turn the head left or right to get at the pinch bolts.

    A 3/8" ratchet, 4" extension and proper Allen cap driver and you're set for the triple clamp - i.e. drop the forks.

    Granted, its just a few minutes to pop the fairing. But some have HARD wired in accessories without a disconnect and will not like the idea of 'fairing removal".

    Hence - a good reason to wire accessories in a manor so as to provide ease of maintenance (decouple in a easy access area).
    08 Raven w/a few mods...
    R6 Forks, R1 Rear Shock (revalved), 6 Ignition Advance, S1 CAT free Header, SS Mid-Pipe, 2Bro Exhaust, AIS block off plates, Bazzaz Z-Fi Fuel Controller & Z-AFM Data Logger, Air Box mod, CR10E Plugs, 48-Tooth Rear Sprocket, FZ1 Bars, Spider Grips, Adj levers, Powder Coated -Triple, Bars & Rear Sets, Solid mounted rear-sets w/knurled pegs, Dual Headlight, Tail Tidy, LED Combo Brake & Directionals, LED POD lights & Tinted PUIG Wind Screen!

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  18. #10
    Gold Member tejkowskit's Avatar
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    Re: 04-09 FZ6 FORK OIL and seal replacement!

    Awesome writeup! Thanks for taking the time to snap pictures and do a tutorial. Both of these jobs are on my agenda for this years maintenance. You couldn't have had better timing!

    Another thing that works great for removing the front wheel is a 1/2" rod coupling nut (19mm = .748 (outer measurement of the coupling nut is 3/4")). Cheap too! I saw the idea posted on a thread on the forum. I don't have a 19mm hex, and the spark plug wrench in the tool kit doesn't fit for me for some reason. I picked up the coupler nut, and it works perfectly!
    Last edited by tejkowskit; 05-29-2015 at 02:59 PM.

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