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  1. #61
    Junior Member Gary in NJ's Avatar
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    Re: Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT

    Quote Originally Posted by tejkowskit View Post
    Photobucket sucks.

    Understatement
    Lifelong student of motorcycling. Current bikes: Custom Naked '05 FZ6, LS650 Café Racer, DRZ400 Street Tracker

  2. #62
    Super Member Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT zixaq's Avatar
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    Re: Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT

    I did a valve adjustment yesterday and tried to remember to take some pictures. I'll look through what I have and see if it'd be useful.

    Mostly its pics of the tear-down process. Did not remove throttle bodies or radiator.

    For those curious, I had two exhaust valves right at the tight edge of the range (0.23 mm), so I decided to swap them out. This is the second valve adjustment (first at 27k, currently 45k), and both of those valves were tight and needed changed last time, too. Intake valves have never needed an adjustment.

  3. #63
    2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone FinalImpact's Avatar
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    Re: Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT

    Quote Originally Posted by Gary in NJ View Post


    Understatement
    No doubt!!! Had thier greed not been so ridiculous I'm sure plenty of us would have paid a reasonable fee for their service. But nope... Add it all the popups, redirect links, viral threats and to put it mildly, they suck!!!

    Thank those who have the time to add back missing data. Much appreciated!
    08 Raven w/a few mods...
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  4. #64
    tejkowskit (OP)
    Gold Member tejkowskit's Avatar
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    Re: Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT

    Continued from page 1

    You can now remove the cam sprockets. Place a wire through the cam chain to prevent it from falling into the motor. I imagine it would be a PITA to fish it back out! The service manual also instructs to remove the exhaust side timing chain guide (it is removed in the pic below). I did, but it isn't entirely mandatory. If you decide to, it just lifts out of the slot.
    Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT-20140706_104102-jpg

    One you're at this point you can move onto removing the cam shaft caps and cam shafts. There are 10 bolts per cam shaft cap. Loosen these gradually in a criss-cross pattern from the outside working in. Same applies when tightening during reassembly. You can remove 1 cam shaft at a time if you desire. If only exhaust needs adjustment (as in my case) then you don't even need to remove the intake cam and vise-versa! Remember to place everything in a manor which you still remember how it goes during reassembly. The cam shaft caps are labeled E1, E2, I1, and I2 and have arrows pointing toward the right of the motor just in case you get them mixed up and forget to take pictures .
    Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT-20140706_104127-jpg

    Once these 10 bolts are removed everything will lift out of place. The cam shaft caps have dowels in them too so don't let them fall out or get lost. Mine stayed snug and I didn't get a picture of them..you'll see them.

    Here's both cam shafts removed.
    Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT-20140706_105507_li-jpg

    The shims are under the buckets (which are labeled in the pic above). The buckets will lift straight up. I had to use 2 flat head screw drivers in a chop stick fashion to lift the bucket enough to grab it with my fingers. If you do this be gentle not to damage the buckets with the screw driver. All of my shims stayed in the buckets, but still be cautious not to drop any into the motor. DO NOT MIX UP BUCKETS OR SHIMS. Make sure you keep each bucket in order so they are reassembled to the same valve they came from! Same goes for shims; record which size shim came from which valve!

    Buckets sitting in order of which they were removed. 1-4 top to bottom with shims still in buckets until their values are recorded.
    Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT-20140706_111159-jpg

    Bucket on vs bucket removed. Notice the recession which the shim sits inside.
    Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT-20140706_110418-jpg

    All buckets removed from exhaust side:
    Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT-20140706_111210-jpg


    Here you can see the underside of the bucket with the shim in it. The underside of the bucket has a raised circle which sits on the shim. This shim is a 178 which is 1.78mm. You'll only be able to get shims in increments of 5. The factory installed the odd ones. All the numbers on my shims were legible, but a micrometer or calipers come in handy if the numbers are worn out. Also, our shims are 7.48mm diameter. You'll need to know this when buying new shims.
    Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT-20140706_110500-jpg

    This one's 180 or 1.8mm
    Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT-20140706_113647-jpg

    Now if you took your clearance measurements in US customary units it is easier to convert into metric when determining what size shim you need.

    for the sake of keeping this thread uniform all my measurements will be displayed in metric

    Exh spec. 0.23-0.3mm
    Int spec. 0.13-0.2mm

    I am not posting my intake measurements since they were all in spec. The process is the same so you'll get the example through my exhaust adjustments.
    My exh measured: 1a-0.55 1b-0.66 2a-0.68 2b-0.66 3a-0.6 3b-0.71 4a-0.68 4b-0.55
    All way too loose!
    Now go to the valve shim chart and find what size you will need. Yamaha did the math for you and came up with this chart. Make sure you are looking at the correct chart; there is one for intake and one for exhaust.

    Chart removed due to being copyright material. See formula below on calculating new shim sizes. Or try a google search for "fz6 valve shim chart" or something along those lines?

    Now I know you'll say, "but what about the shims put in by the factory that aren't in increments of 5?". Well now you can bust out the calculator.

    X=measured clearance, Y=desired clearance, Z=shim in bike (in mm), S=needed shim size.

    X-Y+Z=S

    Example. My measured clearance for cyl. 1 valve a is 0.55mm. Desired clearance is 0.28mm. The shim installed was 1.78mm.

    0.55mm-0.28mm+1.78mm=2.05mm that tells me I need a 205 shim (2.05mm in thickness)

    Now since you can only buy shims in increments of 5 you will have to change variable 'Y' in the above formula until 'S' is an increment of 5. Make sure you keep 'Y' within the range of 0.23-0.3mm for exhaust and 0.13-0.2mm for intake.

    Here is a pic of my chart with measurements/conversions etc as a reference. (May be confusing to you especially since there are metric and imperial measurements written down, but make sense to me.. You get the point)
    Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT-20140706_221512-jpg

    Continued in next post
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT-20140706_105507-jpg  
    Last edited by tejkowskit; 02-19-2018 at 01:38 PM.

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  6. #65
    tejkowskit (OP)
    Gold Member tejkowskit's Avatar
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    Re: Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT

    Once you know what sizes you need go to your yammie dealer or order them online. I was lucky and my dealer had every size I needed.
    Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT-20140706_132021-jpg

    Place new shims into their proper valve.
    Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT-20140706_134807-jpg

    Slide the buckets back over onto their proper places. When you reassemble make sure to keep the timing correct. Place cam shafts with cyl. 1 lobes pointing out, cam shaft sprockets with notches pointed out earlier in line with the top of the motor, an T mark on timing sprocket in line with notch on motor. Getting the timing lined up perfectly may take a few tries and adjusting (it did for me), but is very important so take your time and do it right. Place the cam shaft caps back over the cam shafts and tighten them gradually, again, working from the outside in. Reapply your CCT and spin the timing sprocket a few times to settle everything in and make sure it works as it did before. All of your timing indications should line up.

    Make sure to recheck valve clearances once the shafts are back in place. You might be going back to the dealer to get the correct shims yet again.

    With new shims I measured:
    1a-0.27mm 1b-0.32mm 2a-0.3mm 2b-0.25mm 3a-0.27mm 3b-0.3mm 4a-0.3mm 4b-0.25mm

    Again that is only for the exhaust. I did recheck my intake, but the measurements were the same as the first time and all within spec. I know one of my valves is still two hundredths of a mm too loose and others are at their max, but I left it. say what you will, I'm not changing it lol. I'm comfortable with it.

    If everything checks out torque down your bolts and reassemble the rest. It's also a good idea to pour clean oil over the cams and top of the open motor to wash and debris and contaminants down and then change your oil. If you do this make sure the timing sprocket cover is back on as a lot oil will run out of this opening. Edit: if you accidentally pour oil into cylinders there will be a lot of smoke out of the exhaust when you start it up.. This will burn off in a short time.

    Cam sprocket bolts-15 ft/lb
    Cam shaft cap bolts- 7.2 ft/lb

    This really isn't a hard job, just time consuming. Take your time; mistakes are made when you rush. Take lots of pics with detail, and of course, post up your experience with any tips when you're done!

    I started a thread a few days ago and some info which I missed in this thread may be found at this link: http://www.600riders.com/forum/garag...stackable.html
    Last edited by tejkowskit; 02-19-2018 at 01:44 PM.

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  8. #66
    tejkowskit (OP)
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    Re: Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT

    Ok. There you all go. You guys owe me a pint for this one lol. Sorry for the original post having to be continued on page 7. The reason is because there is a limit of 10 images per post which wasn't in place when I first made the thread. Enjoy.

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  10. #67
    Junior Member Gary in NJ's Avatar
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    Re: Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT

    Great write up and the photos help for sure.
    Lifelong student of motorcycling. Current bikes: Custom Naked '05 FZ6, LS650 Café Racer, DRZ400 Street Tracker

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  12. #68
    Member twobob1's Avatar
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    Re: Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT

    Above and beyond, thanks so much. Will be tackling this in the next month so will let you know how I get on. Much appreciated you have saved a lot of people money and worry.

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  14. #69
    2007 FZ6 TownsendsFJR1300's Avatar
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    Re: Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT

    Checked and ADJUSTED mine today..

    2007, 26,550 miles, NOT ridden hard 90% of the time.

    Most were inside spec's (see below) but both #4 exhaust valves were .001" too tight

    Factory spec’s: Exhaust .0091" - .0118"
    (.009"-.012")

    1 2 3 4
    Ex .009" .009" .009" .009" .009" .009" .008" .008" (Too tight)
    Now: .009" .009"

    __________________________________________________ _______________________________

    Factory spec’s: Intake .0051"- .0079"
    (.005"- .008")

    1 2 3 4
    Intake .007" .007" .007" .007" .007" .007" .007" .006"

    __________________________________________________ _________________________________

    Did a TB sync once the coolant was full and the engine to temp. As I re-call, no much difference, I did adjust #3 cylinder down a knats hair.

    No leaks, runs good. Darn near glass smooth at 4k and up, more so than usual but the weather was drier and cooler (engine runs noticeably better with the cooler weather)

    I only printed out the "check valves" sticky, not this one, as I didn't expect to be swapping shims.

    At least the tight valves were both #4, easily accessible and just the exhaust cam.


    ***The site is bunching all my number that WERE SPREAD out together.
    One intake was .001" tighter than the rest, but surprisingly, all near dead even.

    Plug burn (iridium's) for all plugs looked great too.


    This may have been posted already (besides notes/pic's, etc), but it helps a bunch if lay parts, as their removed, in order (on the floor, table, whatever).

    Also, the battery tray, (never had it out before), has two tabs, forward and low, that "clip in" to some other plastic.
    Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 01-06-2019 at 05:59 PM.
    Scott
    2007 Yamaha FZ6- BD43 headlight mod, PIAA bulbs, Stebal air horn, Scorpion SS pipes-(no DB killers), Speedohealer, HEL SS brake lines, Fenda Extenda, K&P SS re-usable oil filter, custom mounted BMW style electrical outlet(L.S.), Techmount GPS mount with handlebar bar risers/set backs, additional helmet lock, custom mod'ed seat(Spencers), Hyper light-rear running/brake light, custom radiator/fan protector, Techspec tank pads, Grip Puppies, Yamaha rear rack with custom aluminum flat rack.

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