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  1. #1
    lawlberg (OP)
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    Subframe removal tips

    So - my subframe bolts (you know, those tricky torx ones) don't want to work with me and I'm worried I'll strip them out. (very shallow).

    Two questions:
    1 - any good tips on removing them (in rather cold weather) would be greatly appreciated


    2 - Once I get them out, I'll probably swap them with bolts that have deeper heads, does anyone know the pitch/size/thread specs on them?


    (oh, and PS. not taking them off because of a bent subframe, bike is fine, she's just getting a little intensive cleaning and custom paint on the subframe/shock)

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  3. #2
    2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone FinalImpact's Avatar
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    Re: Subframe removal tips

    Quote Originally Posted by lawlberg View Post
    So - my subframe bolts (you know, those tricky torx ones) don't want to work with me and I'm worried I'll strip them out. (very shallow).

    Two questions:
    1 - any good tips on removing them (in rather cold weather) would be greatly appreciated


    2 - Once I get them out, I'll probably swap them with bolts that have deeper heads, does anyone know the pitch/size/thread specs on them?


    (oh, and PS. not taking them off because of a bent subframe, bike is fine, she's just getting a little intensive cleaning and custom paint on the subframe/shock)
    ^^ Good to know! (bold)

    Start with a new tip or grind the one you have flat. Also, sometimes the shank gets wider as it gets away from the tip, so grinding it back can help in two ways. DO NOT HEAT THE TIP making it black/blue/red. Its heat treated and this will soften it. So if you heat it enough to burn your hand, that's too hot.

    Don't they have nuts behind them you can just loosen? I guess I've never paid much attention.

    This is case where I would NOT STRIKE the bolt to lossen it. Cast frame does not like this! So, proper tool with good fit, and apply torque.
    08 Raven w/a few mods...
    R6 Forks, R1 Rear Shock (revalved), 6 Ignition Advance, S1 CAT free Header, SS Mid-Pipe, 2Bro Exhaust, AIS block off plates, Bazzaz Z-Fi Fuel Controller & Z-AFM Data Logger, Air Box mod, CR10E Plugs, 48-Tooth Rear Sprocket, FZ1 Bars, Spider Grips, Adj levers, Powder Coated -Triple, Bars & Rear Sets, Solid mounted rear-sets w/knurled pegs, Dual Headlight, Tail Tidy, LED Combo Brake & Directionals, LED POD lights & Tinted PUIG Wind Screen!

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  5. #3
    No ride is too far... Subframe removal tips motojoe122's Avatar
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    Re: Subframe removal tips

    PB Blaster.....best stuff ever made
    Keeping the waterways safe since 1996.

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  7. #4
    lawlberg (OP)
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    Re: Subframe removal tips

    Quote Originally Posted by FinalImpact View Post
    ^^ Good to know! (bold)

    Start with a new tip or grind the one you have flat. Also, sometimes the shank gets wider as it gets away from the tip, so grinding it back can help in two ways. DO NOT HEAT THE TIP making it black/blue/red. Its heat treated and this will soften it. So if you heat it enough to burn your hand, that's too hot.

    Don't they have nuts behind them you can just loosen? I guess I've never paid much attention.

    This is case where I would NOT STRIKE the bolt to lossen it. Cast frame does not like this! So, proper tool with good fit, and apply torque.
    I don't think there are nuts on the back. I'll grab some PB Blaster and a new set of torx sockets and have a go at it this weekend. Would heating it up (heat gun) help at all or would that do the opposite?

  8. #5
    2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone FinalImpact's Avatar
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    Re: Subframe removal tips

    Quote Originally Posted by lawlberg View Post
    I don't think there are nuts on the back. I'll grab some PB Blaster and a new set of torx sockets and have a go at it this weekend. Would heating it up (heat gun) help at all or would that do the opposite?
    Heat always helps even if up to 3 - 400F . Paint will suffer if you get much above 250F depending on what the source is (open flame etc). My concern here is this cast frame. Seeing them crack for *what ever* reason, I'd try to avoid a direct torch assault. If you really hate those fasteners that much, a good drill will lay them to rest but I can't image they are stuck in a manor that you need to resort to that.

    I know this can break tips, but if say its in a 3/8" ratchet, a swift smack to the ratchet handle usually breaks things free. So its that or brute strength!
    08 Raven w/a few mods...
    R6 Forks, R1 Rear Shock (revalved), 6 Ignition Advance, S1 CAT free Header, SS Mid-Pipe, 2Bro Exhaust, AIS block off plates, Bazzaz Z-Fi Fuel Controller & Z-AFM Data Logger, Air Box mod, CR10E Plugs, 48-Tooth Rear Sprocket, FZ1 Bars, Spider Grips, Adj levers, Powder Coated -Triple, Bars & Rear Sets, Solid mounted rear-sets w/knurled pegs, Dual Headlight, Tail Tidy, LED Combo Brake & Directionals, LED POD lights & Tinted PUIG Wind Screen!

  9. #6
    lawlberg (OP)
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    Re: Subframe removal tips

    I think once I use better torx socket drives (had been trying a torx allen type wrench to no avail) I should be okay.

  10. #7
    Senior Member turbid's Avatar
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    Re: Subframe removal tips

    Lawlberg. there are nuts on the back, and they are not welded. so you have to get a long nose plier or a small grip vice and work in the tiny space to hold the nuts solid. then either have a friend to untighten the bolts or try to do it with the other hand... it s not an easy task. i had to tighten mine as it got loose somehow and it was not a fun job. get a good torx bit or you will not have much luck with other methods plus you risk doing more damage to the frame and tank.
    Why messing, Yamaha????

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  12. #8
    lawlberg (OP)
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    Re: Subframe removal tips

    Found the nuts - there's 4 bolts and 2 nuts (Nuts are on the top two mounting points on the longer bolts - which makes perfect sense).

    Got them all out easily with a good set of half inch drive torx drivers. Subframe is almost all the way off - took the bottom shock bolt out and I'm working at threading the rest of the wiring harness back through (looks like I'll have to get a security torx bit for the underseat storage - pain in the bum.

  13. #9
    Super Member bigborer's Avatar
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    Re: Subframe removal tips

    Has anyone put a S2 subframe on a S1 frame? Will I have any "surprises"?

    I got the parts and I'll be doing the swap as the rear pegs sit lower on the S2 model.
    2004 FZ6 with R6 Fork and brakes, Leo Vince SBK Carbon Exhaust, Venhill SS Race brake lines, APE manual CCT, CBR 600 F4i rear shock

  14. #10
    2007 FZ6 TownsendsFJR1300's Avatar
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    Re: Subframe removal tips

    Quote Originally Posted by bigborer View Post
    Has anyone put a S2 subframe on a S1 frame? Will I have any "surprises"?

    I got the parts and I'll be doing the swap as the rear pegs sit lower on the S2 model.
    Shouldn't be an issue..
    Scott
    2007 Yamaha FZ6- BD43 headlight mod, PIAA bulbs, Stebal air horn, Scorpion SS pipes-(no DB killers), Speedohealer, HEL SS brake lines, Fenda Extenda, K&P SS re-usable oil filter, custom mounted BMW style electrical outlet(L.S.), Techmount GPS mount with handlebar bar risers/set backs, additional helmet lock, custom mod'ed seat(Spencers), Hyper light-rear running/brake light, custom radiator/fan protector, Techspec tank pads, Grip Puppies, Yamaha rear rack with custom aluminum flat rack.

 

 

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