Hello & Welcome to our community. Is this your first visit? Register

Thanks Thanks:  153
Likes Likes:  53
Dislikes Dislikes:  0
Page 1 of 22 12311 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 220
  1. #1
    FinalImpact (OP)
    2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone FinalImpact's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    USA, OR
    Posts
    11,008
    Mentioned
    137 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Blog Entries
    1

    Arrow Vibration! A cure for bad vibrations, Spark Plug Caps!!

    If your bike has vibrations in the seat, handle bars or foot pegs, read on as this procedure "may" help reduce some of those harmonic vibrations. If you can remove the spark plug caps, you can check this and correct this condition.

    WHAT IS THE CAUSE?:
    The the Spark Plug Cap (SPC) threads into the High Tension Lead (HTL) wire core using a brass screw with a conventional clockwise thread. As the wire ages, the insulation around the wires core may relax allowing the copper core wire to move away from the caps brass screw. This loss of connection translates to vibrations across throughout mid to upper RPM's. Remember this is a waste spark ignition and each coil is responsible for 2 spark plugs firing and a poor connection at either plug can alter the timing, energy, or duration of the spark to a cylinder! We feel this as harmonic vibration in the bars and seat. The good news is, its easy to fix!
    IMO - unless the wires core is completely broken, it IS NOT responsible for a misfire! That is, the engine will start, idle, and accelerate fine. But the chassis may have harmonic vibration from about 4K on up.

    HOW TO CHECK IT AND CORRECT IT:
    • From the left side, remove the two 10 mm bolts holding the radiator and let it settle on the hoses. Be careful of the lower bracket hitting the radiators CORE! More info here ->See post 6 for more pictures.
    • Remove spark plug cap #4 (right side). PULL ON THE THE CAP BODY, NOT THE WIRE!!!
    • With the cap free in hand, hold the HTL (wire) and gently rotate the CAP ASSEMBLY CLOCKWISE. The cap may turn about a half turn on the wire and **should become snug and resist turning.** If the cap SPINS ON THE WIRE IT NEEDS REPAIRED!
    • REPAIR THE WIRE: If the cap spins with no resistance to rotation, unscrew it by rotating the CAP counter clockwise while holding the wire. Using a pair of sharp side cutting pliers, cleanly cut off 1/4" (6 mm) from the HTL.
    • Using small pick, fan out the copper wire strands into a 360 pattern. Do not bend them repeatedly!
    • FAN OUT WIRES:
    • Push the SPC onto the wire and turn it clockwise until its snug.
    • Add a ZIPTIRE to the boot! Because the wires are strained once fitted to the engine, the ZIPTIE will extend the interval before coming loose again.
    • Proceed to next cap and remove it for inspection. I find it easier to leave the caps out until all wires are verified/repaired. Turn the bars and hang them over the radiator.


    *** ADDITIONAL TESTING; If you have a DMM (Digital multimeter) and want to test the resistor internal to the SPC, see section below for additional testing before installing the cap onto the wire.

    SPC INSTALLATION INTO VALVE COVER:
    • Starting on the left side of the engine, insert SPC #1. You should feel and hear the lock on the cap engage the spark plugs conductor. The dust seal should simultaneously seat on the valve cover. If the SPC pops back up any amount after seating it, remove the SPC and move the dust seal up the body towards the HTC.
    • Firmly Seat the SPC onto the plug.
    • Firmly Seat the dust seal onto the the valve cover. Confirm it seals 360 degrees.
    • Proceed to next SPC.


    ADDITIONAL TESTING:
    The SPC is composed of several parts which should be verified by testing and visual inspection during spark plug replacement or if they are suspect of causing a misfire or vibration. Because these connections are subject to high voltage (15,000+ volts) a bad connections can burn and arc damaging components.
    With an ohm meter set to K ohms, insert the test leads into each end of the cap. It should measure 10K ohms. Internal to the cap is a resistor, spring, plug lock, and self threading cable connector. If any of these component have corrosion, arcing, or burning, they should be replaced. Also, the FSM does not list a limit. Mine all measured 10.7 ~ 10.8K ohms.
    The resistor spark plugs are supposed to measure 5.0K ohms. My used CR9EK's measured ~ 4.0K ohms each.

    COMPONENTS:
    On top of my meter you see the spring, ceramic resistor, locking insert (locks Cap to Plug), and the end of the cap body.


    Spark Plug Cap (SPC) Drawing:


    Actual components internal to cap:
    Note: use a flat head screw driver to remove the locking insert.



    SPECULATION/ROOT CAUSE:
    In this photo the wires spiral wound core was pushed off to one side and the this cap spun freely with no resistance to turning. I cannot prove it, but if you read about inductance and capacitance you see were a tiny change can change the timing of how a coil charges and discharges. It may be milliseconds/microseconds, but it correlates to all if the cylinders not being fired at the same time and this induces the vibration we feel.

    HOW WAS THIS DISCOVERED:
    I found that the spark plug wire to cap had gotten loose as described here. Although it didn't create a misfire or make the bike run bad (it ran great), it did make a harmonic vibration across all RPMs which rules out throttle body sync. This vibration was increasing so I went for ONE CHANGE and that was to remove the four plug caps from the head and inspect how the high tension lead was seated to the caps. I DID NOT TOUCH ANYTHING ELSE, JUST THE SPC/s & HTS's.

    That's when I found the HTL was no longer tight in the SPC. At first I thought this condition added resistance to the junction and it may very well do that. However, the spark plug and the cap assembly account for 13 to 16,000 ohms of resistance THUS IT IS VERY UNLIKELY that a copper wire against a brass screw has high resistance. i.e. more than 10 ohms total. It is MORE likely there is capacitance altering the coils saturation time (charge rate). Remember this is a waste spark system and one coil is responsible for two cylinders. The capacitance may actually alter when the spark arrives thus inducing harmonic vibrations to the firing as it out of time ever so slightly.

    PS - I found that one wire being loose can cause a noticeable vibration!! In the last event, cap #4 (spun freely w/out resistance). Before that it was #2 about 2000 miles ago.

    SPARK PLUGS:
    Check the gap on your plugs and do not Exceed the Recommended gap. If using conventional carbon plugs (CR9EK side fire or CR9E End Fire) the gap should be set to less than the maximum as it opens as it wears. See picture below.

    Spec: 0.024–0.028 in (0.6–0.7 mm)

    **********************************
    PRECIOUS METAL PLUGS AND GAPING:
    Before installing spark plugs, the gap must be checked as the plug has many other applications (not just the FZ6 engine) which means the gap MAY NOT BE SUITABLE for this vehicle!
    If the gap is too large it can be the cause of the poor acceleration upon re-wetting the intake.
    There is a right way and wrong way to verify the correct the plugs gap. Yes, the wrong way could damage a precious metal plug. Using the proper tools for the job reduces the risk of damage.

    Regarding application:
    NGK Spark Plugs USA

    How to Gap a Plug (precious metal specific):
    NGK Spark Plugs USA

    Bottom line: the plugs must be gaped to meet the requirements of the engine they are installed in.
    Spec: 0.024–0.028 in (0.6–0.7 mm)


    **********************************
    SPARK PLUG TORQUE SPEC:
    18 Nm (1.8 mkg, 13 ftlb)
    **********************************

    Used Plugs ~ 13,000 miles and Excessive Gap from Wear:
    Note: Plugs gap is opening up as material wears away (2 and 3).




    **********************************
    THIS DOES NOT FIX: vibrations induced by poor drive chain maintenance, worn sprockets, or kinky chains.
    SEE "How to string align your rear wheel!!" for chain and wheel alignment issues: http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-t...ear-wheel.html
    It is recommended to perform this when changing spark plugs and before performing a Throttle Body Sync.
    **********************************

    Off Topic but related to ignition testing and from post 33 of this thread. If anyone wants to see the coils unleash on the plug, Place the meter into Diagnostic mode and ground the spark plug bodies.
    Quote Originally Posted by FinalImpact View Post
    HOW TO TEST YOU COILS AND ECM:

    Our bikes have the option of being placed into a diagnostic mode that will trigger each of the coils to deliver 5 sparks. You can use this to test the coils and look for arc over without the engine actually running so you can HEAR electrical leakage should it exist.

    ** YOU MUST insert a spark plug. **
    ** YOU MUST ground the body of the spark plug to the engine block. **
    An alligator clip to the plugs body and the other end clamped to a bare metal engine surface should be adequate.

    DIAGNOSTIC MODE, Setting the diagnostic mode
    1. Turn the main switch to “OFF” and set the engine stop switch to “RUN”.
    2. Disconnect the wire harness coupler from the fuel pump (Green Connector).
    3. Simultaneously press and hold the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons, turn the main switch to “ON”, and continue to press the buttons for 8 seconds or more.
    4. Press the “SELECT” button to select the diagnostic monitoring mode “dIAG”.
    5. After selecting “dIAG”, simultaneously press the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons for 2 seconds or more to execute the selection.
    6. Set the engine stop switch to “OFF”.
    7. Select the diagnostic code number that applies to the item that was verified with the fault code number by pressing the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons ((30 or 31)).
    8. Verify the operation of the sensor or actuator.
    • Sensor operation
    The data representing the operating conditions of the sensor appears on the trip LCD.
    • Actuator operation
    Set the engine stop switch to “RUN” to operate the actuator.
    If the engine stop switch is set to “RUN”, set it to “STOP”, and then set it to “RUN” again.
    9. Turn the main switch to “OFF” to cancel the diagnostic mode.

    NOTE:
    • To decrease the selected diagnostic code number, press the “RESET” button. Press the “RESET” button for 1 second or longer to automatically decrease the diagnostic code numbers.
    • To increase the selected diagnostic code number, press the “SELECT” button. Press the “SELECT” button for 1 second or longer to automatically increase the diagnostic code numbers.

    Sensor code from operation table:
    30: Ignition coil #1, #4
    31: Ignition coil #2, #3


    See FSM for other sensors which can be tested in diagnostic mode.

    2008 FZ6 Coil:
    FWIW: Near the Spade is a "+" and "-" embodied in the housing. RED to PLUS SIDE!


    **********************************
    EDITS:
    2014-11-08 Added pictures, Zip-Tire and lower the radiator core
    2014-05-27 Added link to String Align Rear Wheel
    2014-05-09 Check those precious metal plugs
    2014-04-11 Embed post 33
    2014-04-11 FIX BROKEN LINKS! errr....
    2014-03-31 Fix broken links
    2013-09-04 Clarify actions, list order of operation
    **********************************
    Last edited by FinalImpact; 09-25-2015 at 10:52 AM. Reason: See Edit List

  2. #2
    Junior Member Vibration! A cure for bad vibrations, Spark Plug Caps!! Gelvatron's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Southern Cali
    Posts
    952
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Just replaced my chain and lubed the swing arm and rear axle I swear it doesn't vibrate at all, if you lived closer I'd say come ride it, I think the chain alignment and wheel alignment are very close and the chain slack is spot on But my hand doesn't got I sleep anymore


  3. Thanks FinalImpact, FrozenBiker thanked for this post
  4. #3
    FinalImpact (OP)
    2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone FinalImpact's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    USA, OR
    Posts
    11,008
    Mentioned
    137 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Blog Entries
    1

    Re: A cure for bad vibrations, spark plug caps!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Gelvatron View Post
    Just replaced my chain and lubed the swing arm and rear axle I swear it doesn't vibrate at all, if you lived closer I'd say come ride it, I think the chain alignment and wheel alignment are very close and the chain slack is spot on But my hand doesn't got I sleep anymore
    Thanks - its just a little ride!

    That's how bike normally is; vibration free. So when it makes my butt vibrate something is wrong! This simply fix which was the only thing I touched and made a huge difference returning it to its former SMOOTH SELF!

    So anyone having vibration issues that are ENGINE SPEED RELATED (NOT ROAD SPEED), this is by far the first thing I'd be checking. Its so simple yet very dramatic in nature. I may keep an eye out for a better way to terminate the cap to wire.

    JJD952
    08 Raven w/a few mods...
    R6 Forks, R1 Rear Shock (revalved), 6 Ignition Advance, S1 CAT free Header, SS Mid-Pipe, 2Bro Exhaust, AIS block off plates, Bazzaz Z-Fi Fuel Controller & Z-AFM Data Logger, Air Box mod, CR10E Plugs, 48-Tooth Rear Sprocket, FZ1 Bars, Spider Grips, Adj levers, Powder Coated -Triple, Bars & Rear Sets, Solid mounted rear-sets w/knurled pegs, Dual Headlight, Tail Tidy, LED Combo Brake & Directionals, LED POD lights & Tinted PUIG Wind Screen!

  5. Thanks Motogiro, FrozenBiker thanked for this post
  6. #4
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    NorCal/East Texas
    Posts
    189
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Re: A cure for bad vibrations, spark plug caps!!

    I did this yesterday and wow, what a difference! The high tension leads were in those plugs pretty loose and the wires where corroded and most of the strands were broken. I also gapped my plugs. Thanks for the heads up about this!

  7. Thanks FinalImpact, Motogiro, FrozenBiker thanked for this post
  8. #5
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Toronnto
    Posts
    515
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Re: A cure for bad vibrations, spark plug caps!!

    Interesting, I've had this sort of vibration on and off for the past few years. Mostly off, but since I've started riding it this year, it hasn't gone away.

    Can you do this from the side like the plugs or do you need to remove the battery box/air filter housing?
    '06 FZ6 - 115k km, sold but not forgotten
    '07 FZ1 - 60k km, just not the same as the '6

  9. Thanks FinalImpact, FrozenBiker thanked for this post
  10. #6
    FinalImpact (OP)
    2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone FinalImpact's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    USA, OR
    Posts
    11,008
    Mentioned
    137 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Blog Entries
    1

    Re: A cure for bad vibrations, spark plug caps!!

    90% is from the right side and no need to lift the tank or pull the air box. The caps are very tight coming out as they are long and hit the frame but they do come out. The other 10% is through the tiny opening in the left side. I highly recommend inspection. As said, if turned clockwise while holding the wire, they should be snug and offer resistance to turning. If they spin freely, unscrew them and correct it. You will be rewarded!

    Also - if anyone pulls them out AND HAS AN OHM METER, please measure the resistance of the caps from the conductor at the plug wire to the conductor at the plugs tip. Thanks! Another member who shall remain nameless found two if the four loose, corrected it and again, all the small high frequency vibes went away!

    Edit;
    From the service manual:
    Spark plug cap: Resistance 10.0 kΩ

    Also, while the CAPS are disconnected from the high tension lead, MEASURE THE CAPS RESISTANCE!!!! It has components internal to the body which can go bad! i.e. should corrosion or arc over begin, the resistance will go up. Should the resistor burn open (unlikely) but if it does you'll have a weak spark or no spark.
    Attachment 48134 Attachment 48135 Attachment 48136
    Its worth a look if they don't measure properly!


    Remove TWo Bolts and allow Radiator to settle for Access:


    Don't let this mount poke into the Radiators core! Blue arrow!


    These TWO bolts out and there is plenty of room:
    Last edited by FinalImpact; 11-23-2014 at 10:51 PM. Reason: Vibrations / = / haha - not anymore
    08 Raven w/a few mods...
    R6 Forks, R1 Rear Shock (revalved), 6 Ignition Advance, S1 CAT free Header, SS Mid-Pipe, 2Bro Exhaust, AIS block off plates, Bazzaz Z-Fi Fuel Controller & Z-AFM Data Logger, Air Box mod, CR10E Plugs, 48-Tooth Rear Sprocket, FZ1 Bars, Spider Grips, Adj levers, Powder Coated -Triple, Bars & Rear Sets, Solid mounted rear-sets w/knurled pegs, Dual Headlight, Tail Tidy, LED Combo Brake & Directionals, LED POD lights & Tinted PUIG Wind Screen!

  11. Thanks Motogiro, regder, FrozenBiker thanked for this post
  12. #7
    No ride is too far... Vibration! A cure for bad vibrations, Spark Plug Caps!! motojoe122's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Somers Point, NJ
    Posts
    3,577
    Mentioned
    16 Post(s)
    Tagged
    4 Thread(s)

    Re: A cure for bad vibrations, spark plug caps!!

    Quote Originally Posted by norcalwelder View Post
    I did this yesterday and wow, what a difference! The high tension leads were in those plugs pretty loose and the wires where corroded and most of the strands were broken. I also gapped my plugs. Thanks for the heads up about this!
    I did it the other day too, #3 and 4 caps were loose. Checked the plug gap as well, all were in spec. It made a noticable difference in vibe reduction.
    Keeping the waterways safe since 1996.

  13. Thanks FinalImpact, Motogiro, FrozenBiker thanked for this post
  14. #8
    .
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    359
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Re: A cure for bad vibrations, spark plug caps!!

    After seeing this topic last week, and I did the job today. Although #2 and #4 needed to be done, the vibes remain.
    This bike has enough vibes to supply two other bikes
    Still fun to ride tho.

  15. Thanks FinalImpact thanked for this post
  16. #9
    FinalImpact (OP)
    2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone FinalImpact's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    USA, OR
    Posts
    11,008
    Mentioned
    137 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Blog Entries
    1

    Re: A cure for bad vibrations, spark plug caps!!

    Quote Originally Posted by FrozenBiker View Post
    After seeing this topic last week, and I did the job today. Although #2 and #4 needed to be done, the vibes remain.
    This bike has enough vibes to supply two other bikes
    Still fun to ride tho.
    Can you give us some details? When where, what RPM, At Speed, under load, etc ??? This WILL NOT FIX - drive train vibrations like:
    - dry chains / worn chains
    - kinky chains / over tight chains
    - out round/out of balance tires
    - bent wheels

    For the most part, if you have ran a couple treatments of injector cleaner, have new plugs, the spark plug caps are tight, air filter is mostly clean, and the valves are adjusted properly; this will help ALL RPM's! If your vibe is MOST prominent below 4000 RPM - Do all of this and then Sync the throttle bodies.

    Other items to consider:
    - Valve adjustment / compression test
    - Bad coils/Bad wires
    - Bad spark plug caps. Take them apart from the plugs end and examine the spring.
    - Bad Gas
    - Engine to the frame bolts are tight BUT the FRAME is stressed (loosen all bolts, blip starter, tighten all bolts).
    08 Raven w/a few mods...
    R6 Forks, R1 Rear Shock (revalved), 6 Ignition Advance, S1 CAT free Header, SS Mid-Pipe, 2Bro Exhaust, AIS block off plates, Bazzaz Z-Fi Fuel Controller & Z-AFM Data Logger, Air Box mod, CR10E Plugs, 48-Tooth Rear Sprocket, FZ1 Bars, Spider Grips, Adj levers, Powder Coated -Triple, Bars & Rear Sets, Solid mounted rear-sets w/knurled pegs, Dual Headlight, Tail Tidy, LED Combo Brake & Directionals, LED POD lights & Tinted PUIG Wind Screen!

  17. #10
    .
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    359
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Re: A cure for bad vibrations, spark plug caps!!

    Quote Originally Posted by FinalImpact View Post
    Can you give us some details? When where, what RPM, At Speed, under load, etc ??? This WILL NOT FIX - drive train vibrations like:
    - dry chains / worn chains
    - kinky chains / over tight chains
    - out round/out of balance tires
    - bent wheels

    For the most part, if you have ran a couple treatments of injector cleaner, have new plugs, the spark plug caps are tight, air filter is mostly clean, and the valves are adjusted properly; this will help ALL RPM's! If your vibe is MOST prominent below 4000 RPM - Do all of this and then Sync the throttle bodies.

    Other items to consider:
    - Valve adjustment / compression test
    - Bad coils/Bad wires
    - Bad spark plug caps. Take them apart from the plugs end and examine the spring.
    - Bad Gas
    - Engine to the frame bolts are tight BUT the FRAME is stressed (loosen all bolts, blip starter, tighten all bolts).
    Thx for the thoughts on this. The vibes begin at idle, and increase heavily after 6000..
    Been through the sync'ing, re-torque, good gas, new plugs, and this coil-wire check.
    No joy.

  18. Thanks FinalImpact thanked for this post
 

 
Page 1 of 22 12311 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. two tools to ADD to your kit when doing Spark Plug Changes
    By FinalImpact in forum Garage / Mechanical Help
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 09-26-2012, 09:43 PM
  2. Spark Plug?
    By Vust123 in forum FZ6 General Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 06-11-2012, 10:09 PM
  3. F/S: Coil Packs w/ Plug Caps
    By skooter65 in forum Bikes/Parts For Sale
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 10-09-2011, 06:16 PM
  4. Spark Plug Cap
    By niben001 in forum Garage / Mechanical Help
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 04-29-2011, 04:10 AM
  5. Spark Plug Gap
    By Cochiez in forum FZ6 Technical
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 04-20-2010, 05:24 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:41 PM.
4.2.5
Image resizer by SevenSkins
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Feedback Buttons provided by Advanced Post Thanks / Like v3.6.3 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 2007 , All content is property of 600Riders.Com All Rights Reserved. The opinions and posts on this site do not neccesarily reflect those of the site owners or operators.
Yamaha FZ6 and Yamaha rights are property of Yamaha Motor Company. 600Riders.com is not associated with Yamaha in any way. We are an enthusiast site dedicated to the Yamaha FZ6 motorcycles. Our goal is to offer a place for Yamaha FZ6 owners to discuss rides, events, mods, maintenance, purchasing, etc
vBulletin Skin By: PurevB.com