Replaced Clutch Cable/Question?

[oldfast007]

1. It is a minor PITA to do, imo, requires pulling air box, battery box etc.

2. Everything works however, I find the engagement far too long (all the way out) as compared to before, I am wondering what basic adjustment I am missing? Every thing was reinstalled correctly, have tightened it a little but to no avail. Pull feels about the same as before.

3. Only 8k miles on the original, so I am not even considering the clutch itself.

Thoughts, Suggestions...

Thanks! Eric.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

1. It is a minor PITA to do, imo, requires pulling air box, battery box etc.

2. Everything works however, I find the engagement far too long (all the way out) as compared to before, I am wondering what basic adjustment I am missing? Every thing was reinstalled correctly, have tightened it a little but to no avail. Pull feels about the same as before.

3. Only 8k miles on the original, so I am not even considering the clutch itself.

Thoughts, Suggestions...

Thanks! Eric.

You can leave a little more play in the cable. That'll allow the lever to be closer to the grip. Just make sure the clutch is disengauging fully when pulled in.

Lubing the cable helps with the pull too..

[tjhess74]

i know this doesnt help, but i have the same issue on the stock cable. it doesnt engage til the clutch is almost fully out, and it is very stiff even after being lubed excessively!

i also get a little clutch 'chatter' when pulling off in first gear.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

i know this doesnt help, but i have the same issue on the stock cable. it doesnt engage til the clutch is almost fully out, and it is very stiff even after being lubed excessively!

i also get a little clutch 'chatter' when pulling off in first gear.

Clutch chatter indicates warped steel clutch plates or something else worn with the clutch assembly. An inspection of the clutch is probably due...

Again, loosening up the free play a little more will bring the lever a little closer to the bar.. MAKE SURE IT STILL DISENGAGES. Are you using the pressure type tool that clamps around the cable and forces Cable specific lube down the line? That procedure also blows any crap/dirt out of the cable.

Should your bike have a lot miles, or the cables neglected, they could be worn/ frayed inside causing the additional friction(replacement time)...

As a side note, my FZ (FJR as well) engages approx 3/4 the way out however the engagement zone is tighter/closer than the FJR.

[tjhess74]

warped friction discs...thats what i wasnt wanting you to say (which is what i thought it may be).

from what ive read, and having ridden my buddys fjr, i think the location friction zone and the amount of pull is normal. i jump on my hydro clutch bikes and it feels like weightlifting with feathers!

[oldfast007]

So I presume your up for a replacement?

I was able to get it a little closer for engagement but not much....I still will invest in a good cable lube tool at some point.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

warped friction discs...thats what i wasnt wanting you to say (which is what i thought it may be).

from what ive read, and having ridden my buddys fjr, i think the location friction zone and the amount of pull is normal. i jump on my hydro clutch bikes and it feels like weightlifting with feathers!

The first Generation FJR (03-05) had a lighter pull clutch, 06 and up to a certain year(not sure what year) they changed the clutch cylinder and it was a bit harder. They went back to the earlier, easier clutch cylinder (the gen I). I don't know what year your friends FJR is.

BTW: Its not a hard job, just right side clutch cover needs to come off. Soak the clutch plates over night in oil before installing. I've seen an R6 with a blown clutch, the engine needed to come apart as there were clutch parts scattered throughout the engine and locked up the engine with clutch material getting inbetween transmission gears...

I have a 07 FZ6 PDF manual if you need it... PM me with an address...