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  1. #331
    2007 FZ6 TownsendsFJR1300's Avatar
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    Re: Error 33 breaking my bike abroad- urgent help please

    Our Ethanol %'s are "up to 10%".

    Most marina's sell non-ethanol, a couple regular gas stations (not near by) sell it.

    Where I'm at (not the boat), I can get by with Ethanol as nothing gets winterized (except my generators) W/O snow, super cold temps, etc..
    Scott
    2007 Yamaha FZ6- BD43 headlight mod, PIAA bulbs, Stebal air horn, Scorpion SS pipes-(no DB killers), Speedohealer, HEL SS brake lines, Fenda Extenda, K&P SS re-usable oil filter, custom mounted BMW style electrical outlet(L.S.), Techmount GPS mount with handlebar bar risers/set backs, additional helmet lock, custom mod'ed seat(Spencers), Hyper light-rear running/brake light, custom radiator/fan protector, Techspec tank pads, Grip Puppies, Yamaha rear rack with custom aluminum flat rack.

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  3. #332
    bigborer (OP)
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    Re: Error 33 breaking my bike abroad- urgent help please

    Update:

    -mounted the engine inside the frame; though I have no problem lifting it and moving it around, it was impossible to both lift it and tilt it in the right position (would have needed to have one extra hand). Long story short, I bought a jack like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6dp1Pqd-qY (and payed twice what you guys would pay on amazon) and finally got the engine installed
    -used contact spray on all connectors
    -installed the intake rail and throttle cables- as the rubber grommets are old, and it's (still) winter outside, this was a struggle as well. Ended up using some rubber grease and made it press in...
    -put dry lube inside all the cables
    -installed all cables- the "surprise" here was the neutral connector snapping and the metal spade sliding out, if it ever stops showing neutral I'll know why...
    -installed the shifter rod- the manual says to align the punch mark from the shift shaft with the slot from the part that links the shift shaft to the rod. THIS IS INCORRECT! After some more fiddling with the shifter rod length I discovered that the linking part actually has a small mark it's self. Lined up both marks and it fit well...
    -installed the filter and put mineral oil
    -installed the starter motor

    Couldn't install the drive sprocket nut! If you remember, I had replaced the entire gearbox with one from a low mileage S2 model. After some research it turned out that they changed the design.
    S1 model uses this nut https://www.partzilla.com/product/ya...5d8a304e9a64bf + the foldable tab
    S2 model uses this nut https://www.partzilla.com/product/ya...e0d0fe505b28fb + a (non foldable) washer
    Apart from this, they use different pitch thread and the S2 has more threads. Most likely they did this as there have been (even on this forum) a number of cases where the nut unscrewed it's self and left the chain loose, causing quite some trouble.

    So now I need the S2 drive nut and washer...

    The other stuff left is:
    -installing the exhaust manifold
    -installing the radiator, hoses and cooling liquid
    -installing the battery and air filter
    -checking the throttle- when I spun it to make sure the cables moved freely it felt like something got out of place and now it doensn't feel right when spinning
    -priming the oil circuit (spinning the starter for 20-30 seconds by touching it directly to the + terminal)
    -putting in some gas and starting it up

    I'll try my best to do all the above tomorrow...
    2004 FZ6 with R6 Fork and brakes, Leo Vince SBK Carbon Exhaust, Venhill SS Race brake lines, APE manual CCT

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  5. #333
    2007 FZ6 TownsendsFJR1300's Avatar
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    Re: Error 33 breaking my bike abroad- urgent help please

    If the throttle cable (especially the return cable) is too tight, it'll bind up.

    You may already know but also, the throttle slack tends to TIGHTEN UP with the forks turned all the way.

    Sounds like your making great headway!!
    Scott
    2007 Yamaha FZ6- BD43 headlight mod, PIAA bulbs, Stebal air horn, Scorpion SS pipes-(no DB killers), Speedohealer, HEL SS brake lines, Fenda Extenda, K&P SS re-usable oil filter, custom mounted BMW style electrical outlet(L.S.), Techmount GPS mount with handlebar bar risers/set backs, additional helmet lock, custom mod'ed seat(Spencers), Hyper light-rear running/brake light, custom radiator/fan protector, Techspec tank pads, Grip Puppies, Yamaha rear rack with custom aluminum flat rack.

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  7. #334
    bigborer (OP)
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    Re: Error 33 breaking my bike abroad- urgent help please

    I don't think it's the cables, after going fully opened to fully closed and something felt like vaguely popping inside (with the cables on it never rolls that much) the throttle just felt weird even before connecting the throttle cables. At all times the bars were straight or almost straight...

    Speaking of cables- is it normal for the clutch cable to have both the mid cable and the lever adjustments almost fully maxed out before reaching an acceptable grab point (about a fingers width)? From my experience of LOTS of bicycle cables serviced over the years I'm quite sure that it's not frayed (it slides smoothly enough). By the "made in Japan" markings it seems that it's an OEM cable.
    Or perhaps I've just gotten used to the feel of the hydraulic clutch on the Honda...

    And forgot to mention- everything seems gummed up- it does show that the bike's been sitting for what is around 1.5 years now...for eg the side stand barely got up... Luckily most if it got instantly freed up after a few sprays of WD40, which were then followed with a bit of dry lube spray. The chain used to be clean and all links used to move freely- hopefully a few sprays of WD40 will free it up just as quickly - if that works I'll than follow with some chain spray.
    At some point I'll have to clean and lube all rear linkages and pivot points and replace the head bearings (already got a new set of all balls bearings), open and clean all buttons, etc but first things first- get the engine running and pass the "periodic technical inspection".
    2004 FZ6 with R6 Fork and brakes, Leo Vince SBK Carbon Exhaust, Venhill SS Race brake lines, APE manual CCT

  8. #335
    2007 FZ6 TownsendsFJR1300's Avatar
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    Re: Error 33 breaking my bike abroad- urgent help please

    That clutch cable is stretched... No, both adjusters should NOT be fully extended for operation.

    When I recently adjusted my valves, I "extended" the mid adjuster maybe a turn.

    I replaced the clutch cable awhile ago after 'FEELING" this during maintenance...

    My cable wasn't fully extended, didn't break, but as you can see, was about to...

    BTW, I'd loose the WD40 (it's NOT a lubricant), and use a petroleum product (or chain spray-when appropriate) for loosening stuff.

    The last pic is the chain lube I really, really like. Sticks, no fling (except under the front sprocket cover), great for lubing other parts as it has "White Graphite". I did contact Honda directly as they had two similar products. The other was for track bikes which gets lubed way more often than your street bike... Reasonable price too...







    Scott
    2007 Yamaha FZ6- BD43 headlight mod, PIAA bulbs, Stebal air horn, Scorpion SS pipes-(no DB killers), Speedohealer, HEL SS brake lines, Fenda Extenda, K&P SS re-usable oil filter, custom mounted BMW style electrical outlet(L.S.), Techmount GPS mount with handlebar bar risers/set backs, additional helmet lock, custom mod'ed seat(Spencers), Hyper light-rear running/brake light, custom radiator/fan protector, Techspec tank pads, Grip Puppies, Yamaha rear rack with custom aluminum flat rack.

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  10. #336
    bigborer (OP)
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    Re: Error 33 breaking my bike abroad- urgent help please

    Did you by any chance check how freely that cable moved inside it's housing after you removed it from the clutch slave? With that amount of fraying it should have binded a bit...

    Re the WD 40- I know it's not a lubricant but it's quick and easy, works great at cleaning gunked up parts and doesn't seem to affect plastic/rubber. The manual asks for kerosene which would be difficult to get. Right afterwards I'll spray some white motorcycle chain spray (most likely very similar to your Honda spray). I really hate having oil on any parts that are open to the elements.
    2004 FZ6 with R6 Fork and brakes, Leo Vince SBK Carbon Exhaust, Venhill SS Race brake lines, APE manual CCT

  11. #337
    2007 FZ6 TownsendsFJR1300's Avatar
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    Re: Error 33 breaking my bike abroad- urgent help please

    Quote Originally Posted by bigborer View Post
    Did you by any chance check how freely that cable moved inside it's housing after you removed it from the clutch slave? With that amount of fraying it should have binded a bit...

    Re the WD 40- I know it's not a lubricant but it's quick and easy, works great at cleaning gunked up parts and doesn't seem to affect plastic/rubber. The manual asks for kerosene which would be difficult to get. Right afterwards I'll spray some white motorcycle chain spray (most likely very similar to your Honda spray). I really hate having oil on any parts that are open to the elements.
    With the cable free from BOTH ENDS, you could barely feel it binding (surprisingly)… Agreed thou, it should be felt however, the plastic "shield" I suspect hid most of the binding-You can see that plastic "cover" split (on it's own).

    I don't remember if I saw a broke strand or what but knew something wasn't right (and could be a major issue if failed in traffic). I just replaced it and cut the old one apart. Those pic's are NOT from me cutting it apart (just snipped the upper barrel end to pull the cable apart).

    Your cable stretched that far may not be frayed, but IMO, should be replaced. It's not worth a wreck when the clutch doesn't work when called upon..


    I understand about the WD40, as long as your moveable "part" is eventually lubed with real lubricant..

    BTW, I lube my clutch cable always within 200 miles, tops. So it's not neglected..

    With that said, the PO, in the first 4,500 miles (when I bought it), the cable was NEVER LUBED, the chain lubed ONCE..
    Scott
    2007 Yamaha FZ6- BD43 headlight mod, PIAA bulbs, Stebal air horn, Scorpion SS pipes-(no DB killers), Speedohealer, HEL SS brake lines, Fenda Extenda, K&P SS re-usable oil filter, custom mounted BMW style electrical outlet(L.S.), Techmount GPS mount with handlebar bar risers/set backs, additional helmet lock, custom mod'ed seat(Spencers), Hyper light-rear running/brake light, custom radiator/fan protector, Techspec tank pads, Grip Puppies, Yamaha rear rack with custom aluminum flat rack.

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  13. #338
    bigborer (OP)
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    Re: Error 33 breaking my bike abroad- urgent help please

    I'll definitely add the clutch cable on the "to do list", after I get the bike started. Yes, it would have a high change of causing a crash if it failed in the wrong moment. Do you have any experience with non OEM cables? OEM would take a LOT to arrive...

    IMO chain and cable lubing is a bit overanalyzed. For cables, unless it's a very humid environment, little to no lube is better, especially if the lube is oil. I have replaced over 100 cables and housings (bicycles) and have seen and tried it all. Oil will cause a lot of stiction and attract dirt. Also, it will gunk up over time if not frequently re-oiled. Best choice is dry lube (mostly anything PTFE based): no stiction (it even reduces friction in most cases), no dirt attraction.

    For chains, as long as they have "modern" orings anything that will stick long enough to prevent the rusting of the exterior is good. Oil again sucks- it's messy, it will attract dirt and cause binding within the links. PTFE is too light for this, but any of those white motorcycle chain sprays will do the job with little to none of the oil's side effects. What actually gunked up my chain is the residues of the oil applied by the PO, combined with dirt. Not to mention all the oily gunk I've had to scrape off everywhere near the drive sprocket and rear area...
    Some really get crazy with the darn oil on the chains, as if cost a fortune to replace the chain and they needed to make sure they did everything possible to ensure they squeezed even the last few miles out of it. In reality, as long as the links aren't binding, it's not making strange sounds, it's not rusted and it's not fully stretched the chain is the least of concerns.


    Today I installed the exhaust, radiator, most of the hoses, battery and coils. I also spun the starter a bit- happily no strange noises.

    Left to do for now:
    -install the last few hoses, recheck all clamps and pour coolant
    -buy the sprocket nut and washer (might do this tomorrow), tighten and lube the chain. WD40 only did half the job, might have to reapply it once more
    -check the tire pressure, throttle, and engine bolts torque
    2004 FZ6 with R6 Fork and brakes, Leo Vince SBK Carbon Exhaust, Venhill SS Race brake lines, APE manual CCT

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  15. #339
    2007 FZ6 TownsendsFJR1300's Avatar
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    Re: Error 33 breaking my bike abroad- urgent help please

    Quote Originally Posted by bigborer View Post
    I'll definitely add the clutch cable on the "to do list", after I get the bike started. Yes, it would have a high change of causing a crash if it failed in the wrong moment. Do you have any experience with non OEM cables? OEM would take a LOT to arrive...IMO, DO NOT get a knock off cable..If it was something "pretty", who cares... The YAMAHA OEM cable WILL fit correctly and last a long time if maintained..

    IMO chain and cable lubing is a bit overanalyzed. Have to disagree, I can feel the difference when the chain is clean and freshly lubed, but that's just me. I am admittedly very ANAL about my machines and maintenance.

    For cables, unless it's a very humid environment, little to no lube is better, especially if the lube is oil. The clutch cable likes to be lubed, simply due to the stress (which is WAY MORE than a bicycle will ever have-I work on bikes too). The throttle cables, I barely touch them, simply not needed due to little resistance, and my bike is a daily driver BUT not in bad weather (I'm retired and ride for fun). And it IS humid down here..

    I have replaced over 100 cables and housings (bicycles) and have seen and tried it all. Oil will cause a lot of stiction and attract dirt. Also, it will gunk up over time if not frequently re-oiled. Best choice is dry lube (mostly anything PTFE based): no stiction (it even reduces friction in most cases), no dirt attraction. I use cable specific oil but often just put a small squirt of 30wt oil at the sharp curve (very noticeably difference)

    For chains, as long as they have "modern" orings anything that will stick long enough to prevent the rusting of the exterior is good. Oil again sucks- it's messy, it will attract dirt and cause binding within the links. The spray I posted works great and is made by HONDA specifically for street chains. I've been riding motorcycle since 15, am now 60 and have been thru MANY chain lubes. This, by far is my favorite.. PTFE is too light for this, but any of those white motorcycle chain sprays will do the job with little to none of the oil's side effects.

    What actually gunked up my chain is the residues of the oil applied by the PO, combined with dirt. Not to mention all the oily gunk I've had to scrape off everywhere near the drive sprocket and rear area... Ya have to clean them fully occasionally. I just did mine last week with Motuel and the chain looks brand new. Get it dry and re-lube.. I might do a GOOD CLEANING(as such-2 times a year, maybe)

    Some really get crazy with the darn oil on the chains, as if cost a fortune to replace the chain and they needed to make sure they did everything possible to ensure they squeezed even the last few miles out of it. In reality, as long as the links aren't binding, it's not making strange sounds, it's not rusted and it's not fully stretched the chain is the least of concerns. Again, I disagree, but I am anal about maintenance and enjoy doing it... I wouldn't hesitate riding cross country right now as EVERYTHING is up to par. I would also have at least one can of chain lube in my luggage..


    Today I installed the exhaust, radiator, most of the hoses, battery and coils. I also spun the starter a bit- happily no strange noises. Excellent!

    Left to do for now:
    -install the last few hoses, recheck all clamps and pour coolant
    -buy the sprocket nut and washer (might do this tomorrow), tighten and lube the chain. WD40 only did half the job, might have to reapply it once more
    -check the tire pressure, throttle, and engine bolts torque
    About ready to at least fire it up!
    Scott
    2007 Yamaha FZ6- BD43 headlight mod, PIAA bulbs, Stebal air horn, Scorpion SS pipes-(no DB killers), Speedohealer, HEL SS brake lines, Fenda Extenda, K&P SS re-usable oil filter, custom mounted BMW style electrical outlet(L.S.), Techmount GPS mount with handlebar bar risers/set backs, additional helmet lock, custom mod'ed seat(Spencers), Hyper light-rear running/brake light, custom radiator/fan protector, Techspec tank pads, Grip Puppies, Yamaha rear rack with custom aluminum flat rack.

  16. #340
    bigborer (OP)
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    Re: Error 33 breaking my bike abroad- urgent help please

    Today I installed the rest of the hoses, retightened some hose clamps, fit the air filter, put coolant, put some gas, cleaned and lubed the chain (WD40 wasn't enough, had to scrub it with a brush, soap and warm water), inflated the tires which had only lost about 20% pressure after all this time!
    Also opened up the throttle- see attached what made it move strangely.

    I did fire it up finally!

    At first, it didn't even prime the fuel pump- there was only a clicking sound at the middle of the bike, likely the relay (some connection got oxidized?). After turning the key and kill switch on and off a few times it finally started to sound like it was priming.

    It then took a few more tries before it sputtered, and then one more try it and it finally started (same as the carbed Honda after the winter break!). It sounded a bit strange and then there was some smoke coming off the exhaust header bolts so I shut it off. Here is the start up video: https://streamable.com/n44ox

    I know the exhaust bolts are prone to snapping so I tried to tighten them as little as possible- in doing so a few got loose and left the exhaust fumes pass by at the head. This might also explain the strange noise. In the end I torqued them all at the required 20NM.

    Didn't try to start it again because it's not good for new rings to idle too much before they set in- hopefully the strange noise is now gone. And despite my best efforts, I couldn't find any suitable nut and washer for the drive sprocket- everyone either only had parts for the S1 model and 00-04 R6s or didn't even bother to reply.

    Will have to wait at least one more week, as the next few days have freezing rain forecasted...

    Few more things- the throttle seems a bit hard to twist. At first I thought I'd twisted the throttle body spring one turn to much, so I unhooked it with a screwdriver. Bad idea, as it turned out this wasn't the case AND it then took almost an hour to "fish" the spring with a zip tie, pull it back and re hook it- VERY tricky to do this; and it made me think about my career choices- turns out I would have been a good gynecological surgeon. The throttle cables aren't biding, I lubed the throttle grip, the throttle bodies move freely with no biding- not sure what could be wrong, or perhaps that's the way it's always been...
    Apart from this, the front turn signals aren't any longer working (the rear ones work fine) and the rear plate light isn't lighting as well...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Error 33 breaking my bike abroad- urgent help please-photo_2019-02-11_18-16-23-jpg  
    2004 FZ6 with R6 Fork and brakes, Leo Vince SBK Carbon Exhaust, Venhill SS Race brake lines, APE manual CCT

 

 
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