Shinn
Junior Member
Hey all. Just wondering, in the service manual, it says to have a check over at the 7000km mark. Is it beneficial to have the dealer do this, or is the check up kind of pointless and easy to quickly do things at home?
7000km Service
- Thread starter Shinn
- Start date
Raid The Revenge
Super Member
Here's the 7000 KM service (and my opinion)
1) Check and adjust spark plugs - I recommend to check at least one. Sparkplugs can tell you how well your engine is timed.
2) Check air-filter - If you're going to do this, you might as well install a K&N air filter. It's not hard and totally worth doing over just checking it.
3) Idle Speed - Easy. If you like it the way it is, just leave it.
4) Throttle Body Sync. - This is the big one. You'll need a special set of vacuum gauges to do this. This is the one you'd get a mechanic to do for you, since it is the most importnant of the 7000 K service. Basically, it tests the air/fuel mixture in each cylinder in the engine.
5) Fuel System - Lift your fuel tank and check ALL THE LINES AND CONNECTIONS. If there are no cracks or leaks, you're good! As or the AIS; a positive throttle body sync will automatically confirm if this is good or not for the most part.
6) Crankcase Breather Hoses - You know the airbox that has your air-filter? Check ALL LINES AND CONNECTIONS. ALL HOSES. If there are no cracks or leaks, you're good! A positive throttle body sync will automatically confirm if this is good for the most part.
7) Exhaust System - A throttle body sync will...yeah yeah yeah...
8) Throttle cables - You like how they work? They're not stuck or looses? Good! Move on...
9) Clutch cable - You like how they work? They're not stuck or looses? Good! Move on...
10) Lubricate all MAJOR BOLTS - That includes clutch, gearchange, brake lever, pedal, sidestand, center stand, pivots, cables. (I like to use WD40 on electrical connections)
11) Cooling System - The big giveaways are corrosion or residue. If you see none, move on!
12) Engine Oil - Have you changed it already?
13) Brakes - Fluids, hoses, pads...are they good? Change whatever is worn out or yucky. Test your brakes. Do they stop your bike FAST? Are your disc warped? Yeah yeah yeah...
14) Tires, Bearings, etc...- You want to ride straight right? Check everything with a wheel.
15) Battery - Duh.
16) Bolts - Retighten all the bolts you can see. Some may have come loose! Make sure to use proper torque specs. Trust me, you shouldn't have to pay someone to do this for you. Igor might be good at it, but trust me, do it yourself.
17) Sidestand and Safety cutoff - Start your engine, with your sidestand out, then try to go to first gear. Does the bike shutoff? Good! Move on...
18) Suspension - No leaks? Good response? No cracked seals or bottoming out? Good! You're done!
Congratulations! You are a responsible person!
1) Check and adjust spark plugs - I recommend to check at least one. Sparkplugs can tell you how well your engine is timed.
2) Check air-filter - If you're going to do this, you might as well install a K&N air filter. It's not hard and totally worth doing over just checking it.
3) Idle Speed - Easy. If you like it the way it is, just leave it.
4) Throttle Body Sync. - This is the big one. You'll need a special set of vacuum gauges to do this. This is the one you'd get a mechanic to do for you, since it is the most importnant of the 7000 K service. Basically, it tests the air/fuel mixture in each cylinder in the engine.
5) Fuel System - Lift your fuel tank and check ALL THE LINES AND CONNECTIONS. If there are no cracks or leaks, you're good! As or the AIS; a positive throttle body sync will automatically confirm if this is good or not for the most part.
6) Crankcase Breather Hoses - You know the airbox that has your air-filter? Check ALL LINES AND CONNECTIONS. ALL HOSES. If there are no cracks or leaks, you're good! A positive throttle body sync will automatically confirm if this is good for the most part.
7) Exhaust System - A throttle body sync will...yeah yeah yeah...
8) Throttle cables - You like how they work? They're not stuck or looses? Good! Move on...
9) Clutch cable - You like how they work? They're not stuck or looses? Good! Move on...
10) Lubricate all MAJOR BOLTS - That includes clutch, gearchange, brake lever, pedal, sidestand, center stand, pivots, cables. (I like to use WD40 on electrical connections)
11) Cooling System - The big giveaways are corrosion or residue. If you see none, move on!
12) Engine Oil - Have you changed it already?
13) Brakes - Fluids, hoses, pads...are they good? Change whatever is worn out or yucky. Test your brakes. Do they stop your bike FAST? Are your disc warped? Yeah yeah yeah...
14) Tires, Bearings, etc...- You want to ride straight right? Check everything with a wheel.
15) Battery - Duh.
16) Bolts - Retighten all the bolts you can see. Some may have come loose! Make sure to use proper torque specs. Trust me, you shouldn't have to pay someone to do this for you. Igor might be good at it, but trust me, do it yourself.
17) Sidestand and Safety cutoff - Start your engine, with your sidestand out, then try to go to first gear. Does the bike shutoff? Good! Move on...
18) Suspension - No leaks? Good response? No cracked seals or bottoming out? Good! You're done!
Congratulations! You are a responsible person!
FZ6er_FSR
Junior Member
Depends how comfortable you are working on your bike.
Personally, I'm always paranoid if I've done something correctly. For peace in mind, I let the dealer do it. Also, if anything is broken, they have access to parts.
Personally, I'm always paranoid if I've done something correctly. For peace in mind, I let the dealer do it. Also, if anything is broken, they have access to parts.
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