Snatchy Throttle Issue

villa1963

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Having read a number of reviews before I bought my FZ6 S2 I was aware of the snatchy fuel injection problem.Up until yesterday I felt confident that with time and practice this could be overcome.However yesterday it damn near caused me to crash on a roundabout when I needed to power on in second to avoid a nutter in a BMW (arent they all?).In general I have largley managed to compensate with careful clutch/throttle control but its still there and a worry that taints an otherwise great ride.Has anyone else managed to find a technique to overcome this?
 
B

bluenova

The only time I get a big bite from the throttle is when my chain is a bit loose, I over come it by very slighty pulling the clutch when bringing the throttle on. How loose is your chain?
 

Wolfman

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Had big issues with a snatchy throttle till i got my exhaust de-baffled, for some reason, when the exhaust was allowed to breath about 40% better, the snatchiness dissapeared. Am guessing an aftermarket exhaust, and, or a power commander would also fix this problem.
 

reiobard

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i haven't really noticed the snatchy throttle syndrome yet (6000 miles so far this year) so i would assume that it would have shown itself, how new are you to riding? also the loose chain could be causing it as well,
 

DefyInertia

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throttle and clutch control is the real answer but if you're looking for mods you can...

change the final gearing and run a gear higher than you otherwise would

get a PCIII and tune (or so I've heard)

mod the amount of rotation required (increase) to put the throttle to the stop

buy a different bike
 

Hellgate

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I had that same problem. At neutral throttle, like in a sweeper, I'd try to dial in little more throttle...and....wait...and...wait...nothing. So I'd grab a handful and then BANG! UGH....I've never had a bike that did that before. Over the past few weeks I've installed a PCIII and had it dyno tuned and a custom map created for it. 90% of the problem solved. The throttle is much more responsive to small inputs. It's isn't smoothbore carbs, but it is much better than stock. The extra torque and hp is nice too.

The tuner stated that is one of the issues with FI; and each brand and model of bike is different. Once he had it tuned he was very impressed with the throttle response and this is from a guy who has been doing this for 20 years.

I'm not sure if the addition of the O2 sensor in '07 has anything to do with this or not. When you are at 0% to 10% throttle position, and between 0 and 7000 rpms, the FI system is closed loop, meaning the computer governs what the FI does regardless of what is programmed into the PCIII; kinda sucks that it can't be tweaked.

I'd like to hear what owers of R6s, SV650s, and other small displacement FI equipped bikes what their subtle throttle response is like.

If you choose to go with a PCIII you are welcome to use the map I had made for my '07. I have an Akrapovic exhaust with the DB Killers out, but I have a feeling that regardless of aftermarket exhaust it will still work well, ie: better than stock setting.

Hope this helps.
 

Rushiku

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I drive a manual cage, which, when engine braking, gives pretty much the same result: engine is loaded, need a little extra speed, press accelerator, nothing, press a little more, whoa! - this is the long way of saying that I'm used to needing to 'reset' the clutch when coming around corners in the cage, it wasn't much a stretch to apply the same technique to the FZ6. (slow down for corner, pull in clutch, lean in, throttle up, let clutch out slow)
 
F

FZSex

Are we all talking about the same thing? I have it but mine is due to a way too strong throttle spring. The reviews were right about that in my opinion. Shouldn't be so hard to pull on the throttle. not a big deal but its there
 

Nooj

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It is a stiff throttle, isn't it! I get caught out by the delay between opening it and stuff happening, but the missus doesn't (on the same bike), but... she'd ridden one nearly every day for four years.
 

Cloned

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I think I'm experiencing the same thing as you. Often when coming out of a turn I'll roll on the throttle, only to have the bike initially jump. My chain has the right amount of slack stated in the manual. I'll look into the PCIII, though I'm not sure exactly what it does or what you guys are talking about by "maps".
 

Hellgate

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I think I'm experiencing the same thing as you. Often when coming out of a turn I'll roll on the throttle, only to have the bike initially jump. My chain has the right amount of slack stated in the manual. I'll look into the PCIII, though I'm not sure exactly what it does or what you guys are talking about by "maps".

The PCIII allows you to by-pass the stock computer mapping and change the richness of the FI. You can also tune each cylinder indivdually to each one makes equal power.

A "map" is the program that is uploaded into the PCIII. DynoJet has about 15 or so maps available for our bike. They can be downloaded from their web site and they are shipped with the device.

With a computer attached to the PCIII you can adjust the mixture of the fuel map by percent of throttle opening and rpm.

The key is to have a knowledgeable person get it up for you as the DynoJet provided maps aren't so hot.

It's a pretty cool device.
 

nimzotech

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I've also read in another thread that by unplugging one of the battery terminals, the bike's computer will reset and retune itself. The result was a smoother running bike (that is if you had aftermarket exhausts installed).

I have yet to give it a try myself.
 

Hellgate

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I've also read in another thread that by unplugging one of the battery terminals, the bike's computer will reset and retune itself. The result was a smoother running bike (that is if you had aftermarket exhausts installed).

I have yet to give it a try myself.

I've heard that too.
 

Wolfman

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I've also read in another thread that by unplugging one of the battery terminals, the bike's computer will reset and retune itself. The result was a smoother running bike (that is if you had aftermarket exhausts installed).

I have yet to give it a try myself.

Unplugged my battery last night to install heated grips, and when i took it for a ride afterwards, it seemed to be running smoother than earlier that day, thought it might of been the cold,crisp night air, but maybe not...
 

dynamo-acl

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Every bike on the road seems to have these issues now with FI

its just to dam sensitive for bikes, give me back carbs:rockon:

Its only ever a few of the model that do it as ive had it happen on my vfr800 but not on my sv1000 fz6 R1 or my now gsxr but go on there forums and u will find someone having this prob

try the battery trick first but if not take it to a tuner to set all the throttle bodies, tps etc before going the power commander/expensive route

then if that dont work look at blocking the pair valve as i know of 3 different makes/models of bikes now that have benefitted from blocking this
 

nimzotech

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I finally unplugged one of the battery terminals last night. Yes, the throttle control is a lot smoother. When I reconnected the battery and started the bike I could actually hear the bike adjusting as I watched the RPM gradually stabilize at around 1100 RPM. It felt as if my riding improved this morning too.
 
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Nooj

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Every bike on the road seems to have these issues now with FI its just to dam sensitive for bikes, give me back carbs
There's nothing wrong with FI systems provided they've been set up properly. The problem is that manufacturers won't create fuelling maps for the bikes to run properly on, they create maps to meet noise and emissions regulations and knock them out as cheaply as possible to keep costs down. Then when your new bike is PDI'd by the dealer before it's delivered to you, they don't have the time to sit and get each bike properly tuned, they get an alloted amount of time to do the job and then have to get onto the next one.

After the Missus had her last TPS replaced her bike was runing a bit rough, so we took it back and got one of the mechanics to go through all the diagnostics and tweak it untill it was spot on. He did such a good job that the bike now runs as well as it did before the TPS replacement with a custom map on the PCIII. The PCIII is now unplugged.

If manufactureres would spend a bit more on developing better maps and If dealers would allow the mechanics to fine tune the bikes properly before they were handed over to buyers we wouldn't have to spend out hundreds of pounds/dollars on after-market plug-in devices to get our bikes to run properly, but it's all down to their profit margins.
 

jamesmorgan

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Having read a number of reviews before I bought my FZ6 S2 I was aware of the snatchy fuel injection problem.Up until yesterday I felt confident that with time and practice this could be overcome.However yesterday it damn near caused me to crash on a roundabout when I needed to power on in second to avoid a nutter in a BMW (arent they all?).In general I have largley managed to compensate with careful clutch/throttle control but its still there and a worry that taints an otherwise great ride.Has anyone else managed to find a technique to overcome this?

I took out the slack on the throttle cable - and find it much less jerky now - Yamaha put an 1/8th of a turn that does nothing in there - just adjust it out with a 12mm spanner under the tank on the left hand side. Cheers - James.
 
B

bluenova

I took out the slack on the throttle cable - and find it much less jerky now - Yamaha put an 1/8th of a turn that does nothing in there - just adjust it out with a 12mm spanner under the tank on the left hand side. Cheers - James.

Hey James, You know you can take out the slack at the handlebar end of the cable without using any tools. There are 2 rings where the cable enters the handlebar, one to adjust and one to hold the adjusting ring in place, just loosen the holding ring and turn the adjusting ring until you have your required amount of slack, then tighten the holding ring again. I have about half a millimeter of slack on mine, Yamaha recommend about 3mm.

Just to add... Make sure after removing the slack that you start up the engine and move the handlebars fully to the left and fully to the right. If the REV's go up at all, you have removed too much slack.
 
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