Scraping Footpeg Thingee

linus · May 24, 2016

Hello All

First track day with the FZ6 and started scraping the ball thingee at the bottom of the foot peg. This gets me concerned, as when I remove the ball, the foot peg is next in line to be scrapped which I feel is a much more serious issue. Thinking of shorter foot pegs...open to suggestions.

See pic, right hand side below bike for the ball almost touching the ground.

Thanks

MattR302 · May 24, 2016

You can remove the feeler things, they just unscrew. I did that the first week I had my bike since they kept getting hooked on my boots. The footages fold back, so it's not a huge deal if they scrape every once in a while. If you do get serious about track days though, you may want to look into different rearsets which have higher pegs, or I believe there's a user on here who makes/sells setback plates for the rearsets to give you more clearance.

beatle · May 24, 2016

I have no peg feelers so I found my toe would scrape before the peg, even with the ball of my foot on the peg and my foot tucked up next to the bike. Most people use different / adjustable rearsets to bring their pegs up and back when they get that serious.

FinalImpact · May 24, 2016

Perhaps work on the bikes setup to reflect its intended use!
Granted my rears sets are now mounted solid and pegs replaced with knurled for grip in all weather, I've only drug bits when pushing it real hard.

Both front and rear suspension have significantly improved damping contol and with the sag set proper for us as a unit, nothing touches.

Just a thought.... be safe!

FinalImpact · May 24, 2016

Look how far your suspension settled....

66625d1464104515-scraping-footpeg-thingee-scrape-jpg

linus · May 24, 2016

I agree. Its probably the way I brake in the corner and setting up of the suspension.

Thinking of changing the fork oil and springs to stiffen the front (that FZ6 dive) and researching replacing the rear shock.

FinalImpact said:
Perhaps work on the bikes setup to reflect its intended use!
Granted my rears sets are now mounted solid and pegs replaced with knurled for grip in all weather, I've only drug bits when pushing it real hard.

Both front and rear suspension have significantly improved damping contol and with the sag set proper for us as a unit, nothing touches.

Just a thought.... be safe!

KHarper4289 · May 24, 2016

Replace forks with R6S forks = Happy Times

FinalImpact · May 24, 2016

Put a zip tie on your stanchion tube and push it down to the seal. Then go for calm ride. Note how much of the 5" of travel is consumed.

Now brake hard and look at whats left without hitting bumps...

R6 forks are worth every penny. Best money I ever spent!

Monica A · May 24, 2016

linus said:
I agree. Its probably the way I brake in the corner and setting up of the suspension.

Thinking of changing the fork oil and springs to stiffen the front (that FZ6 dive) and researching replacing the rear shock.

At the track where I did my track day there was a guy that would adjust your suspension for you. It was like $40 for the day of adjustments. Might be worth a try. Cheaper than new suspension

FinalImpact · May 24, 2016

Monica A said:
At the track where I did my track day there was a guy that would adjust your suspension for you. It was like $40 for the day of adjustments. Might be worth a try. Cheaper than new suspension

But there is nothing to adjust in stock trim.

TownsendsFJR1300 · May 25, 2016

When I raised the nose of my stock forks by adding air, it eliminated most of the dive of the stock front end and definitely increased cornering angles..

More air, less dive.. The air acts as progressive springs (with the stock springs).

Post #24 shows # sag/ dive with and without air (added below) :

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/54803-air-assist-fork-caps.html

Love the mod, super easy, nose isn't lowered any like the R6 forks which would exasperate the issue.

Its been over a year, no oil leakage, added 2-3 PSI in the years time.

I have risers so you would have to make sure you can access the schrader valves.

Just my 2cts..

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________

(Total movement is a hard stop @ 50MPH, FRONT brakes ONLY, rider weight about 215lbs). About 80F outside, forks are cold (not ridden before hand). 7.5 weight fork oil-recently changed-forks stock, spring and stock spacer still installed.

No air............................................... ......9.5 lbs of air............................................... .....15 lbs of air
Static- 33 mm's...................................... Static-varied from 12-20 mm's (sticky)...............Static-16 mm's
Static with rider- 45 mm's.........................Static with rider- 28 mm's..................................Static with rider- 22 mm's
Total movement- 104 mm's.................... .Total movement- 93 mm's.................................Total movement- 97 mm's

Much more than 15 PSI, the ride is a little too stiff for me. At 15 PSI(each leg), less than half the sag.

Monica A · May 25, 2016

Oh OK - I must be thinking of my Street Triple R. It has fully adjustable front & rear. I didn't realize what a difference suspension made until I got my Street Triple R with great/adjustable suspension.

My poor hubby had to fix the front suspension on my Sprint after I got use to the Street's suspension. lol Rear was already upgraded but the front was stock. Upgraded valves, springs, and fork oil. Man, what a difference.

VEGASRIDER · May 25, 2016

My peg feelers have either worn down or broken off. I don't think it will cause you to crash but it is a good indicator where you're at as far a lean angle. Until you start dragging knee on a consistent basis, in my opinion I don't mind having them. Or at least had them in my case. I have scrapped pegs on my Multistrada. They still have feelers.

linus · May 25, 2016

Thanks Monica. I was thinking of getting this done for $40 as well but now I know there is nothing to adjust as per FinalImpact

Monica A said:
At the track where I did my track day there was a guy that would adjust your suspension for you. It was like $40 for the day of adjustments. Might be worth a try. Cheaper than new suspension

linus · May 25, 2016

Going to try this.

FinalImpact said:
Put a zip tie on your stanchion tube and push it down to the seal. Then go for calm ride. Note how much of the 5" of travel is consumed.

Now brake hard and look at whats left without hitting bumps...

R6 forks are worth every penny. Best money I ever spent!

linus · May 25, 2016

This is very interesting indeed. Let me try to digest all of this and attempt increasing the air.:rockon:

TownsendsFJR1300 said:
When I raised the nose of my stock forks by adding air, it eliminated most of the dive of the stock front end and definitely increased cornering angles..

More air, less dive.. The air acts as progressive springs (with the stock springs).

Post #24 shows # sag/ dive with and without air (added below) :

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/54803-air-assist-fork-caps.html

Love the mod, super easy, nose isn't lowered any like the R6 forks which would exasperate the issue.

Its been over a year, no oil leakage, added 2-3 PSI in the years time.

I have risers so you would have to make sure you can access the schrader valves.

Just my 2cts..

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________

(Total movement is a hard stop @ 50MPH, FRONT brakes ONLY, rider weight about 215lbs). About 80F outside, forks are cold (not ridden before hand). 7.5 weight fork oil-recently changed-forks stock, spring and stock spacer still installed.

No air............................................... ......9.5 lbs of air............................................... .....15 lbs of air
Static- 33 mm's...................................... Static-varied from 12-20 mm's (sticky)...............Static-16 mm's
Static with rider- 45 mm's.........................Static with rider- 28 mm's..................................Static with rider- 22 mm's
Total movement- 104 mm's.................... .Total movement- 93 mm's.................................Total movement- 97 mm's

Much more than 15 PSI, the ride is a little too stiff for me. At 15 PSI(each leg), less than half the sag.

FinalImpact · May 25, 2016

And thats all good for ride height and less nose dive but if you are expecting track day performance you need to control motion with proper damping. As most will notice, those who fixed the front providing damping control of both compression and rebound promptly find out just how bad the rear is and fix it too.

Yamaha went way cheap on both ends... God forbid a little Fizzer competes with their flagship R6....

And this post is about expectations and nothing more. I expected more and made changes to get there.

0l0dom0l0 · May 25, 2016

Remove the blobs, you actually get quite a bit of additional ground clearance from doing so. Enough to get your knee down with a good body position but not enough for any semi fast trackday riding.

I found the pegs on the first trackday I did but have since managed to 'control' the lean to the point where I don't deck them out on every corner, although I am holding back to do this.

Getting a new set of rear sets is one of my main priorities for the bike - just haven't found any decent second hand ones yet. There's a fair bit of lean left to go for me I feel when everything is up to temp.

You might find that removing the blobs gives you enough additional clearance that they no longer become a problem - depends how track keen you are.

Obligatory photo:

thisisbenji · Jun 1, 2016

It should also be noted, that if you fix your pegs, your kickstand will drag

Scraping Footpeg Thingee

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