r6 cams in fz6

backroadrider · Jan 23, 2014

Hi I'm new here and new to the FZ6. I'm coming from the fzr600 as my first bike and a gsxr750.

I'm curious about doing the camshaft mod, but I'm finding a lot of conflicting information. From what I understand the 03-05 r6 and 06-09 r6s cams should bolt into a 2006 fz6. Is this correct? I'm seeing conflicting information regarding getting a power commander. Some posts say it's a must and some say no depending on the forum. Same with getting a camshaft tensioner which I thought I would need for sure. Are there any write ups on this hidden here somewhere? I searched the forum and can't find much.

Thanks for any information!

FinalImpact · Jan 23, 2014

Some light reading.....
Perhaps pick up where this thread ends and add to it vs a new thread??
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/36860-camshaft-profile-anyone-know-specs.html

A comparison of the FZ6 origins... Worth a read...
2008 Yamaha FZ6

However you might start here and see if this wakes it up just a tad. Scroll down a few posts. http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...imppact-winter-project-playing-w-trigger.html

FinalImpact · Jan 23, 2014

Oh and :welcome: to the Forum!!!!

If you do the ignition timing, drop a tooth on the front and insulate the air box so it doesn't get all heat soaked (they like cooler air), these are easy projects and they have gains. Add in an early exhaust w/out pre-cats in the header, open up the tail and bang for buck its about as good as its gonna get cause its not torque monster.... but this will get the nose up! Add some good forks and its Play Time! :thumbup::thumbup:

lawlberg · Jan 24, 2014

Final Impact:

I haven't had mine open yet, so I could probably figure it out, but based on the picture of your trigger wheel, and about an hour of reading through the thread from DHobak, I think I know what to do.

Just take enough off to rotate it an extra 5 or so degrees? Right?

FinalImpact · Jan 24, 2014

lawlberg said:
Final Impact:

I haven't had mine open yet, so I could probably figure it out, but based on the picture of your trigger wheel, and about an hour of reading through the thread from DHobak, I think I know what to do.

Just take enough off to rotate it an extra 5 or so degrees? Right?

Negative - its the tab that locates it. And your looking at the crank side in that photo. It will all make sense once you pull it apart. The work to be done is simple. The accuracy of your work MATTERS! The measurement made need be done at area it contacts the crank (as in key that prevents rotation). Again, I suggest welding or peening the metal so as to displace it and fill the void so it can not rotate. Start at 4° and see what you think. Do the math and take your time.

Final Drive Ratio:
I'd highly advise dropping a tooth in the front as when it gets hot out it will ping on take off occasionally. So plan buying better gas!

Marthy · Jan 24, 2014

FinalImpact said:
Negative - its the tab that locates it. And your looking at the crank side in that photo. It will all make sense once you pull it apart. The work to be done is simple. The accuracy of your work MATTERS! The measurement made need be done at area it contacts the crank (as in key that prevents rotation). Again, I suggest welding or peening the metal so as to displace it and fill the void so it can not rotate. Start at 4° and see what you think. Do the math and take your time.

Final Drive Ratio:
I'd highly advise dropping a tooth in the front as when it gets hot out it will ping on take off occasionally. So plan buying better gas!

I tough you guys can adjust the CO? Dump more gas... until it feel better.

FinalImpact · Jan 24, 2014

Marthy said:
I tough you guys can adjust the CO? Dump more gas... until it feel better.

For detonation or fuel chop? I still have my pre-cats in the header pipe. Had a chance to grab an early set of headers and missed it. I have mixed feelings about punching them.

If anyone hears of someone with a Bizzaz fuel controller, I need a better map for the one I have. Let me know. Just so long as I can keep at least 35 mpg, I don't care! But I know the CATs will hate this! They gotta Go!

lawlberg · Jan 24, 2014

FinalImpact said:
Negative - its the tab that locates it. And your looking at the crank side in that photo. It will all make sense once you pull it apart. The work to be done is simple. The accuracy of your work MATTERS! The measurement made need be done at area it contacts the crank (as in key that prevents rotation). Again, I suggest welding or peening the metal so as to displace it and fill the void so it can not rotate. Start at 4° and see what you think. Do the math and take your time.

Final Drive Ratio:
I'd highly advise dropping a tooth in the front as when it gets hot out it will ping on take off occasionally. So plan buying better gas!

Thanks,

Why would dropping a tooth in the front help with ping? (Also always burn 93 in my bike - it makes me feel better about thrashing her)

I've got a PCIII so I'd been planning on richening up the mixture to minimize the risk there.

The adjustment needs to be made to the trigger, not the crank right? and the crank goes through the middle of the trigger, so that notch is where you'd need to change it, or am I way off. (I get the whole backwards thing, I'm flipped with that picture so it would have been on the other side, allowing it to advance farther CW)

Marthy · Jan 24, 2014

FinalImpact said:
For detonation or fuel chop? I still have my pre-cats in the header pipe. Had a chance to grab an early set of headers and missed it. I have mixed feelings about punching them.

If anyone hears of someone with a Bizzaz fuel controller, I need a better map for the one I have. Let me know. Just so long as I can keep at least 35 mpg, I don't care! But I know the CATs will hate this! They gotta Go!

It should help detonation

FinalImpact · Jan 24, 2014

Marthy said:
It should help detonation

Agreed! ^^

As for dropping a tooth, it simply gives it a better mechanical advantage, thus less load at take off. But other users likely have a different style. i.e. my normal take off is not 3000 RPM slip the clutch and go. I tend to raise it just off idle (1600) and cruise away unless feeling a little :squid:. Doing so uphill makes it ping on occasion. Usually only with DRY AIR, HOT >185F engine temps, and doing an uphill take off.

Marthy · Jan 24, 2014

FinalImpact said:
Agreed! ^^

As for dropping a tooth, it simply gives it a better mechanical advantage, thus less load at take off. But other users likely have a different style. i.e. my normal take off is not 3000 RPM slip the clutch and go. I tend to raise it just off idle (1600) and cruise away unless feeling a little :squid:. Doing so uphill makes it ping on occasion. Usually only with DRY AIR, HOT >185F engine temps, and doing an uphill take off.

We were talking about torque earlier... That's what I was talking about with the FZ09. The blue is stock and red is with my exhaust and EJK fuel controller.

r6 cams in fz6

backroadrider

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FinalImpact

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FinalImpact

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lawlberg

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FinalImpact

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Marthy

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FinalImpact

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lawlberg

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Marthy

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FinalImpact

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Marthy

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