Dyno Numbers

I'm still waiting on the e-mail with the graph included, but I have the print out I might have to scan and upload.

Anyway, during the initial dyno run I pulled 88.27 HP (no TQ indicated) using the OTS map for my setup, and then after tuning I'm pulling 88.14 HP and 41.72 TQ. My current mods include: LeoVince Slip-ons (w/ Cat-Delete), KN Drop in, PCIIIUSB, and airbox mod on 91 octane. It's also probably good to note he said his dyno had been calibrated the previous weekend.

I'm just curious if this sounds about right given the elevation is roughly 4800 ft. I know the dyno, air flow, mileage, etc. can all impact numbers, but this does seem slightly low compared to some of the other numbers I looked up (one person claiming 94 bone stock).

The bike runs fine, no issues at all, it's pretty smooth, but I didn't really notice a change from before/after. In fact according to the run I technically lost HP.

Just looking for some thoughts/opinions and if anyone else has had similar experiences. I'll try to scan and upload the graphs when I get a chance.

It actually seems about right. If anything a bit high.


True Rear Wheel Horsepower

ped said:

It actually seems about right. If anything a bit high.


True Rear Wheel Horsepower

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That is certainly a good read and gives a lot more insight into how the HP numbers are actually determined, thank you.

Physically, torque is the rotational force your engine can apply, and power is basically how much torque your engine can apply in a given amount of time.

I'm not sure what all the real world complications are in achieving a measurement, but that's the essential physics.

It might be that to get a torque measurement, they hook up a computer to some rollers with low friction bearings and set the rear wheel of the bike on that. Then knowing the moment of inertia of the roller, you could quickly calculate the force the rear wheel was applying given the acceleration of the roller, and hence you could get the torque the bike was applying "at the rear wheel."

Power at any moment in time could then be calculated as the torque on the roller times the angular velocity of the roller at that moment in time, which would be equal to the angular velocity of the rear wheel of the bike if it isn't slipping on the roller.

Most dyno calculations I have seen don't use real rear-wheel rpms, but rather engine speed. When the clutch is engaged, you could easily get rear wheel speed from this if you knew the drive train ratio (eg., 4 engine revolutions to one rear wheel revolution). My guess is that for dyno runs, they probably put the bike in top gear, as that ratio is closest to 1:1. This results in the least computational error.

The whole "horsepower is torque times angular velocity divided by 5252" thing comes from putting your power calculation into units of horsepower. There aren't many details, but I won't go into them as it involves knowing what a radian is.

I would think with that high an elevation, overall it would lower your numbers a bit.

You may not feel it in the seat of your pants, but the air is thinner obviously and would affect performance. I'd bet a couple ponie increase at sea level..

I'd have to think when rating OFFICIAL HP/torque, etc, its at optimal conditions, ie, temp, sea level, best conditions possible.

Correct me if I'm wrong but won't the FZ6 actually make slightly more power with 87 octane?

91 octane fuel actually delays ignition (milliseconds) slightly so with a properly running bike on 87 octane you are getting slightly better combustion as early as possible on the piston's stroke.

it really depends on the compression ratio. if it detonates too soon or too late it isnt optimal, there is a perfect point/range and that is when the fire needs to happen.

also figure with 98hp at the crank, you should have about 85hp at the wheel, so given you're mods, tune, and elevation id be happy with 88ish. you probably also shed a little weight from the stock chimney.

Something to add:
detonation due to load or heat saturation brings on the need for higher octane fuel. If the outside temps in your area soar AND you hear the engine detonate during take off, you have a need for increased octane to reduce detonation and preserve your engine health!

If only our engine and ECM management employed a knock sensor and actively adjusted the ignition timing you would see this little engine COME TO LIFE! Some have statically advanced the ignition timing by playing with the trigger wheel at the cranks sensor. If this were done at the ignition/fuel mapping level we would would be REWARDED WITH MORE HP/TQ!!! Obviously there would be a need for higher octane fuel if you advance the ignition timing.. .. ..

FinalImpact said:

Something to add:
detonation due to load or heat saturation brings on the need for higher octane fuel. If the outside temps in your area soar AND you hear the engine detonate during take off, you have a need for increased octane to reduce detonation and preserve your engine health!

If only our engine and ECM management employed a knock sensor and actively adjusted the ignition timing you would see this little engine COME TO LIFE! Some have statically advanced the ignition timing by playing with the trigger wheel at the cranks sensor. If this were done at the ignition/fuel mapping level we would would be REWARDED WITH MORE HP/TQ!!! Obviously there would be a need for higher octane fuel if you advance the ignition timing.. .. ..

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I can back that up. I bough a new cage in January (12 Ford Fiesta) and it was running fine until the weather got crazy hot here in FL. I could feel the car bogging at WOT. I swap for premium fuel and it got better. Not by much but enough for the bugging to stop.

I tough the FZ6 has crazy more HP? 85-88 WHP is not that far away from mine. Thanks to the FZ6 cams! LOL

Marthy said:

I can back that up. I bough a new cage in January (12 Ford Fiesta) and it was running fine until the weather got crazy hot here in FL. I could feel the car bogging at WOT. I swap for premium fuel and it got better. Not by much but enough for the bugging to stop.

I tough the FZ6 has crazy more HP? 85-88 WHP is not that far away from mine. Thanks to the FZ6 cams! LOL

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My Yoda is the same. The 1MZ-FE engine loves good gas and with it, it runs the timing up pretty good. The better the gas the more advance it runs right off idle. On days when the engines real hot or supper cold, and it retards the timing, you can move the throttle and the sound changes BUT NOTHING ELSE! I graphed the ignition advance timing vs load, fuel trims, TPS, etc and ignition advance is the variable keeping it tame. Plus old school mechanical advance stuff I used to have a distributor machine to plot and adjust the advance. The old V8s and flat sixes love it too!

Marthy said:

I can back that up. I bough a new cage in January (12 Ford Fiesta) and it was running fine until the weather got crazy hot here in FL. I could feel the car bogging at WOT. I swap for premium fuel and it got better. Not by much but enough for the bugging to stop.

I tough the FZ6 has crazy more HP? 85-88 WHP is not that far away from mine. Thanks to the FZ6 cams! LOL

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it has 98hp at the crank. a stock 6R is rated at like 65hp. i know you did the cam swap as well as other stuff, basically converting it back to a regular FZ6 engine wise. granted R6 cams and a timing advance will push the FZ over 100rwhp, i just dont care to hurt my engine doing that. just buy a supersport.