Relays, could there be another issue

A couple months ago my 06 fz6 started cutting off when I would pull in the clutch an begin to slow down. I mean as soon as I pulled in the clutch an front brake it would just die. Wasnt too big of an issue it always seemed to crank right back up so I rode like this for over a month, not the smartest idea but oh well. Anyway last week I went to get on the bike an it wouldn't start at all. I flipped the kill switch on and off several times and noticed a clicking noise( sounded like a switch trying to make) coming from behind the left side fairing right below the seat. I took the fairing off an the sound was coming from the Relay. After moving this around I was able to get the bike started a couple times but when I moved it around again it would cutt off. I ordered another relay an its supposed to arrive tomorrow. The guy at the yamaha place was no help he couldn't even tell me what the relay was for. Anyway I was just wondering if it is normal for these relays to go out? Or could there be a bigger issue which caused this problem to begin with? Several of the contacts have a burnt look to them as well. I'm really lost on the whole situation but would like to know before I install the new relay if its possible another issue could ruin this relay as well.

I have the exact same problem, and i can hear the clicking as well, i dont really know where it is coming from, my bike also shuts down when i reach the 9000rpm. i have to turn on and off the switch many times before it starts again.
i recently changed the headlights, played with the wiring, and installed an open pipe exhaust without tuning the bike...
Help please !!!

I replaced the relay but still have the same issue. I may resort to changing the whole wiring harness out

Rosco, the relay on the left side under the fairing cover is for the turn signal. You can can unplug it, turn on the key and confirm the blinkers are inoperable.
So did you take the kill switch apart and inspect it? Its pretty common for it to fail. Do a search, you should find pictures. Several open it and jumper it to confirm its guilt or innocence. For the most part the OEM relays are very reliable. Have you noticed the issue from having the bars turned any given direction?

mirank said:

I have the exact same problem, and i can hear the clicking as well, i dont really know where it is coming from, my bike also shuts down when i reach the 9000rpm. i have to turn on and off the switch many times before it starts again.
i recently changed the headlights, played with the wiring, and installed an open pipe exhaust without tuning the bike...
Help please !!!

Click to expand...

Did you have this problem before doing the lights and exhaust? If NOT, it sounds like it would be wise to unplug and inspect every connector touched. I'd start at the back. Then again, what did you do to the lighting? If it involved cutting, taping power, splicing, you might want to recheck that.

The clicking sounds are the relays activating. There are a few relays that you will hear. Once the fuel pump has built to pressure it's internal regulator will not allow it to run and you will hear relays when turning the bike on and off.

I'm trying to understand why a complete harness replacement would be an option at this point. If you start replacing parts you may eventually replace the defective part but it'll probably be cheaper and faster to diagnose and treat the offending failure.

The first thing I would want to know is: When you first try to start the bike bike does the bike go through the self check where the fuel pump whines and the gauges self check? When the bike won't start does the self check and pump prime sound occur?

On the turn signal relay location: When I first tried to find mine the manual said it was in one of the rear pods but it was actually in the front fairing, left side.

FinalImpact said:

Rosco, the relay on the left side under the fairing cover is for the turn signal. You can can unplug it, turn on the key and confirm the blinkers are inoperable.
So did you take the kill switch apart and inspect it? Its pretty common for it to fail. Do a search, you should find pictures. Several open it and jumper it to confirm its guilt or innocence. For the most part the OEM relays are very reliable. Have you noticed the issue from having the bars turned any given direction?

Click to expand...

Post # 22 shows how to bypass the RED kill switch(which the cutting out may very well be):
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/48311-run-switch-faulty-3.html

Rosco, is the idle set high enough (1200-1300 RPM)? What's the idle set at?

Also, if your battery is failing, you could be getting clicking. If the dash lights dim or go out when cranking, its very indicative of a bad battery. Most automotive/bike places can LOAD TEST the battery just to rule that out...

I have found the problem, it was the kill switch, it had a fault in it, and under heavy vibration used to disconnect automatically.... i bypassed it, and everything is back to normal.... now im driving it like that until i receive the new kill switch from the garage...
Thank you everyone for the help....

For those who still have the same problem, dismantle the kill switch and bypass it by connecting both RED wires together... and check if you have solved the issue...

Yes when I turn the key the fuel pump starts up an the gauges check there selves. The bike usually cranks runs for a minute or so then dies. The problem first started when coming to a stop at traffic or a stoplight. As soon as I Would pull in the clutch an start braking the bike would just die. The gauges had full power during all of this. I thought it may have been the idle, but before the issues worsened I could let the clutch out in first gear an the bike would keep itself running enough to not stall out without ever giving it gas. That being said I continued to ride four or five days a week just restarting the bike when it did cut off. The problem even went away for several weeks. Until one day I went to crank the bike an nothing happened. The fuel pump didn't even come on. However after wiggling the aforre mentionef realay I was able to get the bike started. But only for two or three minutes before It died. The kill switch doesn't seem to be the issue. However by moving the portion of the wiring harness located in the left front I can sometimes replicate the cutting off.... might also add the problems started about two months after a bout a 15 mph drop to the left side while trying to do wheelies in the parking lot.lol

Also on the relay that I replaced there were two contacts that seemed to have a little bit of char to them possibly from an short in the wires??? I replaced the relay an the new one had the same charred look within three cranks of the bike. I followed these wires back up till they go behind the headlights in the front fairing. I'm assuming there must be a break somewhere but I really dont know to be sure.

Thanks for the help its very appreciated, an its killing me to have the fz out of commission with summer right around the corner. I'm 21 an have very little knowledge of bikes an electrical systems in general most of what I know has came from this site and google searches so any and all information is a big help.

mirank said:

I have found the problem, it was the kill switch, it had a fault in it, and under heavy vibration used to disconnect automatically.... i bypassed it, and everything is back to normal.... now im driving it like that until i receive the new kill switch from the garage...
Thank you everyone for the help....

For those who still have the same problem, dismantle the kill switch and bypass it by connecting both RED wires together... and check if you have solved the issue...

Click to expand...

There ya go! Congrates...

roscohendrix said:

Yes when I turn the key the fuel pump starts up an the gauges check there selves. The bike usually cranks runs for a minute or so then dies. The problem first started when coming to a stop at traffic or a stoplight. As soon as I Would pull in the clutch an start braking the bike would just die. The gauges had full power during all of this. I thought it may have been the idle, but before the issues worsened I could let the clutch out in first gear an the bike would keep itself running enough to not stall out without ever giving it gas. That being said I continued to ride four or five days a week just restarting the bike when it did cut off. The problem even went away for several weeks. Until one day I went to crank the bike an nothing happened. The fuel pump didn't even come on. However after wiggling the aforre mentionef realay I was able to get the bike started. But only for two or three minutes before It died. The kill switch doesn't seem to be the issue. However by moving the portion of the wiring harness located in the left front I can sometimes replicate the cutting off.... might also add the problems started about two months after a bout a 15 mph drop to the left side while trying to do wheelies in the parking lot.lol

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We had another member drop his bike and the wiring got pinched when the front fork hit the stop. Carefully inspect your wiring at the steering area for signs of a pinch.
Since you dropped the bike, I wonder if the lean angle sensor has properly reset.

There are 2 white plugs near the front on the left side of your bike. If you have a faired version (not naked) the plugs should be outside the frame. You'll probably have to remove the inner plastic insert on the fairing to gain access. Pull these plugs apart for inspection and cleaning.

The engine stop/kill switch seems to fail often on the FZ6. If you can rig a jumper to bypass it, it would be good so as to rule it out.

Check your fuel pump connections. There's one plug for the fuel gauge and one for the fuel pump power.

While you have the tank up check battery connections and put a voltmeter on the battery and check battery voltage key off and then start and run the engine at least 20000 rpm you should see better than 13 volts while running and at least 12.5 volts not running.
There is always the possibility the fuel pump is intermittently failing and not providing enough fuel.
Please keep us in the loop!

+1 on the above re the kill switch. Just bumping the bike, anywhere, if the kill switch is going out, will kill the engine. You'll still have dash lights, no fuel pump, etc. As Cliff mentioned, its a known weak point, especially if you use it often...

If you start the bike on the centerstand, run the engine (in neutral) and just tap around the red kill switch, (somewhat hard if need be) even put some pressure on it, both on and starting to go off, you may see some results there.

In the below link is how to by pass it with pictures...

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/48311-run-switch-faulty-3.html Post #22

Ok, I'm definitely going to try bypassing the kill switch this thursday when I'm off work. Hopefully that is the problem. I will keep everyone posted.

Well guess what... it was the kill switch. I bypassed the switch an it cranked an ran just like new got to ride for about an hour an a half today. Thanks for all the help guys.

Re: Re: Relays, could there be another issue

roscohendrix said:

Ok, I'm definitely going to try bypassing the kill switch this thursday when I'm off work. Hopefully that is the problem. I will keep everyone posted.

Click to expand...

You're awesome!

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roscohendrix said:

Well guess what... it was the kill switch. I bypassed the switch an it cranked an ran just like new got to ride for about an hour an a half today. Thanks for all the help guys.

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Hmmm! Another kill switch dead (pun intended)!

Should you replace the switch (handlebar assembly) down the road, I strongly suggest using it ONLY for emergencies. It just doesn't hold up to daily use.

I use the ignition key 99% of the time...

Congrates, now enjoy the bike like you should!:Sport:

Thanks Scott! You were on this in post #7 Great job guys! :rockon:

Motogiro said:

Thanks Scott! You were on this in post #7 Great job guys! :rockon:

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Actually, Randy mentioned it (among some other things) in post #4 before me.

Its amazing what issues a slowly failing kill switch can cause in time.

When I got my licence, you didn't have to take any MSF courses (many moons ago 1975 or so). Heck you could actually turn off and run the bike WITHOUT YOUR HEADLIGHT on.

Why the MSF courses (from what I read here, especially out west) insist on teaching students to stop the engine with that EMERGENCY KILL switch, under NORMAL circumstances, is beyond me. They kill the motor, leave the key on (sometimes), now may have a possible dead battery(or at least put extra wear and tear on the battery).

No doubt the FZ6 switch is apparently designed for emergency use only as we know it just doesn't hold up under constant use. Mine works fine being 5 years old, 16,000 miles (daily driver) BUT I don't use that switch as a habit..

I wouldn't mind having a spare, broke harness/assembly to hack into and post some pictures how to bypass that switch easily from just crossing the wires from INSIDE the wiring loom..

Re: Re: Relays, could there be another issue

TownsendsFJR1300 said:

Actually, Randy mentioned it (among some other things) in post #4 before me.

Click to expand...

Sorry Randy! I always am going so fast I miss stuff
Thank you Randy!


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