Galfer Brake line help

Yasko

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Can you show me your ss brake line? :confused:

I need a tasteful stainless steel brake line setup for my fast red FZ6.:rockon:

Black, silver, or red?:confused:

Hel, or Galfer? Does it matter?
 
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Karate.Snoopy

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Dude I am running HEL SS RED lines
picture.php

Love the color love the brakes love the bike ;-)
I can take some High Rez images and send them to you if you would like.
Also the HELUSA Customer Service was excellent, the lines are perfect. Do get the matching banjo bolts if you go the HEL route..
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Where did you get your side brackets?

I recently changed to ss lines and I am having a hard time setting them up. These brackets would come in handy.

Yasko.

Go with black or silver.

I copied the lower part of the original brackets onto 1/8" aluminum, then modded the top end to fit my needs. Drilled, painted, etc.

They bolt up in the stock location, with the stock upper and lower tabs (to keep from rotating).

BTW, I'd go with either colored or silver lines, black will look like the stock lines (unless you want it to blend in and look stock).
 

Yasko

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Thanks everyone. :cheer:

It looks like all you guys have Hel over Galfer.:thumbup:

I like that mod, Scott.:rockon:
 

Yasko

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Dude I am running HEL SS RED lines
picture.php

Love the color love the brakes love the bike ;-)
I can take some High Rez images and send them to you if you would like.
Also the HELUSA Customer Service was excellent, the lines are perfect. Do get the matching banjo bolts if you go the HEL route..

Anything special I need, or just the standard 04-07 over the fender?

HEL Performance USA
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Anything special I need, or just the standard 04-07 over the fender?

HEL Performance USA

The two, separate straight lines for the front are a bit easier to bleed initially as you don't have the hoop to trap air. Bleeding may require removing the one caliper and raising it when bleeding, to allow the air bubbles out.

I do like the design of what your ordering better as you don't have to figure out exactly where their going to go...
 

Yasko

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The two, separate straight lines for the front are a bit easier to bleed initially as you don't have the hoop to trap air. Bleeding may require removing the one caliper and raising it when bleeding, to allow the air bubbles out.

I do like the design of what your ordering better as you don't have to figure out exactly where their going to go...

Is this the one you would buy if you were buying today?

HEL Performance USA
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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I believe he's looking at the 'racing style,' which is the two separate lines. I think this is the link: HEL Performance USA

+1 on the above. This is what I have on my bike (but extended a little bit for my risers/set backs). If you got the stock racing lines (for the stock bars, their really shouldn't be much of an issue routing them).

Mine were a knats hair long (slightly longer than I actually needed-((my boo)), so I had to route them the best as possible.
 

trepetti

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I copied the lower part of the original brackets onto 1/8" aluminum, then modded the top end to fit my needs. Drilled, painted, etc.

They bolt up in the stock location, with the stock upper and lower tabs (to keep from rotating).

BTW, I'd go with either colored or silver lines, black will look like the stock lines (unless you want it to blend in and look stock).

Agree about the Black lines. I wanted the SS to stand out a little. I have a Silver/Black 05 and I went with Silver lines. Tasteful without being the focul point of the bike.

But I must say that they work so well that I would install them if they only came in Neon Green! BTW I have Galfer.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Is this the one you would buy if you were buying today?

HEL Performance USA

I, personally, probably wouldn't buy these (I prefer how they'd fit like the stockers) but bleeding them after a rebuild is usually more difficult as the upper hoop likes to hold air. Two straight lines are considerably easier to bleed(likely why their on the race bikes).

My old 1985 Honda VT 1100 (V twin) had the hoop over the fender (stock rubber lines) and I couldn't get all the air out. Off to the shop it had to go, PIA...

I've since figured out how to get by that problem..
 
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Yasko

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I, personally, probably wouldn't buy these (I prefer how they'd fit like the stockers) but bleeding them after a rebuild is usually more difficult as the upper hoop likes to hold air. Two straight lines are considerably easier to bleed(likely why their on the race bikes).

My old 1985 Honda VT 1100 (V twin) had the hoop over the fender (stock rubber lines) and I couldn't get all the air out. Off to the shop it had to go, PIA...

I've since figured out how to get by that problem..

Ok so I'm going with the over the fender, if you think it's a direct switch?:confused:

HEL Performance USA

For the rear I'm going with this.

HEL Performance USA

Yes or no? What else do I need to order from HEL? Washer, clamp, wire, or anything?:confused:
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Ok so I'm going with the over the fender, if you think it's a direct switch?:confused:

HEL Performance USA

For the rear I'm going with this.

HEL Performance USA

Yes or no? What else do I need to order from HEL? Washer, clamp, wire, or anything?:confused:

I can't comment on the HEL, over the ft fender hoop as I've never installed one, nor seen a HEL line of that model. I'm sure it'd be fine...

As for the rear, that's exactly what I have, you don't need anything else but brake fluid.. :thumbup:
 
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