Goodridge Shadow SS Lines

Has anyone else got the Goodridge Shadow SS Front lines for their 07+? Just went to install mine after rebuilding my calipers and both lines are more than 6" too long using the stock routing. I have FZ1 bars so I figured they'd be an inch or two long but this is nuts. Tried every crazy route I could think and just can't get them right - here's a pic for reference..

You defly don't want to use lines that are too long. The smoothest run possible for the brake lines will ensure the least wear and the best operation. I suggest returning them if you can.

I talked to Goodridge and these are the standard size for FZ6 fitment - the throttle side is 3" longer than stock (~35") and the clutch is ~37". Probably would be fine if I still had the stock bars. Goodridge offered to cut them down if I wanted to ship them in but I'd like to have the option of adding risers or changing bars in the future. The only routing I've found that works is crossing each line to the opposite side and going around the back of the fork. It's weird but the X it makes crossing over the fender looks cool. Other than the length, the lines are very nice - the black stainless bolts and banjos look really nice and the branding is subtle, hoping for some decent weather here soon to test them out.

I finally got a set of these (I've had R6 forks with my '04 lines since last year) and got them on today.

They were definitely the same length as yours, they looked way too long to start with. I ended up cutting a rubber clamp bushing off the stock line, and zip-tying both lines into the clamp bracket on the lower triple, then running them through the little push-clamp on the fender. Each line comes through that clamp from the opposite side it goes to, if that makes sense.

I spent a good long time getting them fully bled, and... holy ****. I've got braided lines on my truck, and hardly noticed a difference, but these are night and day from stock lines.

I had my Hel lines made slightly longer as I do have risers/set backs. You can easily spend an hour just trying to find the best route for the new lines. Slightly changing the clocking at the MC helps too. I did end up making my own "guide loop" (rubber hose covered) that bolts to where the stock horn used to reside on the lower triple to help guide things.

The SS lines are not nearly as forgiving as the rubber lines when it comes to having/not having risers (lenth wise).

My rear was about 1.5 too long and looked really goofy. I sent it back and within a couple of days, I had it back and it fit the way it should.


I suspect your going to have to decide now wether you want risers or keep the FZ1 bar, there's too much difference inbetween obviously.

those look nice and why are these lines that much longer if they are exact fz6 fitment, I think someone got their numbers wrong.

7UPyours said:

those look nice and why are these lines that much longer if they are exact fz6 fitment, I think someone got their numbers wrong.

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Perhaps their designed to be routed separatly up each fork then come across to the master cylnder. You may give them a call and ask. I agree, yours are really long.

Should you send them back for shortening, I'd measure (after routing the way you like it) EXACTLY how much shorter you need EACH lines (and tape a note how much shorter for each line so there's NO more screw ups). **Make sure you leave enough for full fork drop as well as where the line will go when pressing down on the forks.

I know, at least with the HEL lines, they didn't give ANY instructions re preferred routing, which end goes where, etc, somewhat dissappointing. Spent an hour or two just playing with the lines, where to run it, etc.

I guess I haven't really looked at my lines but what's wrong with running the new brake lines same way as the old ones?

7UPyours said:

I guess I haven't really looked at my lines but what's wrong with running the new brake lines same way as the old ones?

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In my case, there's two totally separate lines. The stock Yamaha line goes over the fender to the other caliper, then up to a connector block. Then up to the MC.

If you can fanagle the lines like the stock ones, that's great.

coz I got the nkd there is not much space at the top triple so I ran the Hel lines same as OEM little trickier to bleed but looks almost stock ' cept they are yellow like m'bike

the mech. said sometimes its a bit diff. to get the air out of the crossover line from one calliper to the other but that's what yam specc'd on the bike so can't be too hard
did end up zip tiring the lever overnight to get the last bit of air out... did make a difference- just a smidge but a more solid feel

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Put about 250 miles on mine...really not much of a difference - lever is firmer but feedback and power seem the same. Going to try and get a better bleed after testing some different routing paths but at the moment I wish I had saved the $ and kept the stock lines.