Need some advice on some modifications

Hi guys
I haven't posted in a little while and it's now getting to the point of thinking what mods to choose and avoid

Chain
Right, I have covered nearly 18,000 miles on my FZ6 and I think it's time for a chainge Get it? Sorry.
This leads me onto a couple of questions.. Is it worth gearing up?
I know the FZ6 shifts in first and second but I wouldn't mind it a smidgen quicker, I know this will sacrifice top end a little but I don't mind.. How many chances do you get to do 130Mph+? Let's be honest people.
Will it really make that much difference if I add a couple of teeth to the rear gear? (I would like to think so)

This now leads me onto my second question:
What brand of chain do I buy? I was thinking Renthal, specifically this one:
http://www.renthalroad.com/c360/
ULTRALIGHT, GOLD HARD ANODISED, 46T
I should imagine I will be able to get an entire pack for less but even still..
I have never heard anything bad of Renthal but has anyone had any issues?

Braided Hoses
Braided Hoses from Bremzen..
I wanna go with the Red ones, reviews on Bremzen?
Also, what are they like to fit?
I shouldn't imagine too hard.. Unless?

Short Levers
CNC levers set short black Yamaha FZ6 Fazer (04-10), FZ1 Fazer (06-12), F16/Y688 | eBay
I like these, they look top in my eyes.

What about bar end mirrors?
I need some ideas
I also would like to get a set of Renthal Handlebars.. Any ideas?

THanks for any input guys.

MitchellsFZ6

18,000 seems early for a chain. I thought about changing the ratio when I did my chain and sprockets but went stock as the -1+2 does increase revs at highway speeds. I do a lot of interstate riding and like the stock RPM's. You could do a -1+1 which would give you some of the change and if you decided to take a trip or something a stock front sprocket would be an easy swap and a -0+1 would be pretty close to stock. Someone posted a gearing chart a while back, see if you can find that. Also there are some gearing calculators around that might help as well. A Spedo Healer will probably be required - oop it's required with the stock gearing thanks to Yamaha's optimistic speedometer.

I went for an EK x-ring chain when I changed mine at 20K miles. Also went with a Sunstar front sprocket and a JT steel sprocket. If you don't mind a very inaccurate speedo, go ahead and go up a few teeth in the rear, or better yet, get a 15T front sprocket.

Stock gearing, speedo is off by 6-7%. 15T front stock rear, off by 12-14%. You get the picture.. 17T front and stock rear, speedo is within 1% of GPS.

I went with an RK GB530XSO. I think I did mine at 14k or so, but I'd neglected the stock chain, and no idea how the PO treated it for the first 9k miles. If it needs it, it needs it. I went with the gold chain since I'll ride in wet conditions some, and it at least resists surface corrosion better.

I put a steel Vortex on the back, I think 45t, and I have a steel 16t up front. I don't feel any lack of bottom end dropping one tooth in the back... but I think I might steal outasight's idea and grab a 15t front for this season. Just be aware that an aluminum sprocket is going to wear a good bit faster than a steel one will.

Brake hoses aren't the most difficult in the world, but they're not exactly easy. The problem I have with bikes is that the master cylinder has so little volume compared to the lines and calipers, vs. a normal automobile. Not a big deal if you just do calipers, crack each bleeder with a hose on it, keep an eye on the fluid, and let it gravity bleed a while to get most of the air out. When you do lines too and practically start from a dry system, I usually have a hard time with the normal "crack a bleeder and squeeze the lever until the system fills" method. The master cylinder seems to pump fluid out, and then just suck it right back in when you let go. A vacuum or pressure bleeder makes it a lot easier. Poor man's vacuum bleeder, get a large syringe and a foot or so of clear hose that'll fit it and the bleeder nipple. Fill the res, put the empty syringe on, crack the bleeder, and pull the syringe. You could do that in reverse too, but run the risk of jacking up your plastic if brake fluid spurts out.

I went with a gold DID chain at about 23k miles.
steel braided lines are an excellent idea!
as previously stated with the 17t front my speedometer is pretty close even at highway speeds, you do start to see a loss in GO at ridiculously high speeds tho, the FZ just kinda runs out of power at those speeds tho.

fb40dash5 said:

.. .. ..

Brake hoses aren't the most difficult in the world, but they're not exactly easy. The problem I have with bikes is that the master cylinder has so little volume compared to the lines and calipers, vs. a normal automobile. Not a big deal if you just do calipers, crack each bleeder with a hose on it, keep an eye on the fluid, and let it gravity bleed a while to get most of the air out. When you do lines too and practically start from a dry system, I usually have a hard time with the normal "crack a bleeder and squeeze the lever until the system fills" method. The master cylinder seems to pump fluid out, and then just suck it right back in when you let go. A vacuum or pressure bleeder makes it a lot easier. Poor man's vacuum bleeder, get a large syringe and a foot or so of clear hose that'll fit it and the bleeder nipple. Fill the res, put the empty syringe on, crack the bleeder, and pull the syringe. You could do that in reverse too, but run the risk of jacking up your plastic if brake fluid spurts out.

Click to expand...

^^ Well said!
As the final effort in bleeding a system I do recommend it be done under pressure vs vacuum tho. i.e. hold the lever down and crack the bleeder furthest from the MC. Seal it, then let off lever. Repeat a dozen times. Move to other caliper.

But yes, 50 to 100 cc syringes work great for this. Also for sucking out the old crud from the MC.

Good luck.

i still dont see how a speedo healer would matter for regearing. the speed should be measured off of the speed the rear wheel is traveling. the sensor should detect the number of cycles regardless of the sprocket sizes. or is it programmed into the CPU based on the stock sprocket ratio and the revs for each gear? if so thats a pretty asinine way of doing things.

SweaterDude said:

i still dont see how a speedo healer would matter for regearing. the speed should be measured off of the speed the rear wheel is traveling. the sensor should detect the number of cycles regardless of the sprocket sizes. or is it programmed into the CPU based on the stock sprocket ratio and the revs for each gear? if so thats a pretty asinine way of doing things.

Click to expand...

There is no wheel speed sensor. If I were to guess, it takes the reading from output shaft from the transmission, as I don't think the CPU knows the gear selection, either. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

The speed sponsor picks up the output shaft from the gearbox.

i dont plan on swapping the gears so i never really cared much (still dont, but its nice to know)

anyhoo, ill contribute to the OP now...

-if by braided "hoses" you mean brake lines, Galfer makes good ones.

-also by -1+2 its either -1 on the front OR +2 in the back not both, that would be ridiculous.

FWIW: Calculations show.. .. ..

@6000 RPM
72.7 mph, w/16 & 46
68.2 mph, w/15 & 46
65.3 mph, w/15 & 48

Doesn't seem too ridiculous if it suites ones needs. 1st gear might just bring the nose up a tad too!

Edit: you only loose 3mph in 1st at 6k w/15 & 48