charging issuse

stator was brunt so was rectifier and one connector to rectifier replaced all three. and kill switch was bad bypassed it. still not charging.any input would be a big help thanks.

How is the battery? With that much damage it should be toast.

Check to obvious. Wiring plugs etc.

Start by having the battery charged and load tested.

Test the 3 leads to your stator by unplugging it and you should see .2 to.3 ohms between any of the 3 winding. Put your ohmmeter on the x1 range to do this test. There should be no continuity from any lead to ground or the motor's casing.

Let us know what you find.

battery reads 13.8 and stator connector reads .02

what about side stand safty switch. I can leave it down put it in gear and will not shut down. disconnect it put in gear shuts down. any way to check that this might be grounded out in it.

did you measure stator output voiltage (in AC) with the engine running? should be in the 30-90V range depending on revs, and all the same

if that works then it's a problem somewhere else

hootowlredneck said:

battery reads 13.8 and stator connector reads .02

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I can only assume your battery is reading 13.8 while charging. Static (engine not running with no current draw) battery voltage can be 12.6-13 volts DC.

You have 3 leads to the stator. Unplugged, they should read .22 to .34 ohms and nothing from any lead to ground. .02 ohms would be a fail on any stator winding. Make sure your ohm setting is in the x1 range.

unpluged at iddle .21and .22 then goes up between 70-80

70-80V sounds good, is it the same for each connection pair?

i wouldn't recommend measuring resistance with the engine running, unless you want to damage your multimeter

yes all the same

battery stator rectifier all was shot replaced and also replaced rectifier connector that was brunt out. could they be a short in kick stand sensor and can I bypass it.

Measure resistance of the windings.
No not with the engine running. There are reasons voltage is not used to measure your stator condition.

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I was on the road when I replaced the battery rode home checked stator rr and connectors replaced them. would it have ruin my new battery just on that short ride home battery now shows 13.8 not running.

would that make it dump power when the battery is over charged like that.

hootowlredneck said:

would that make it dump power when the battery is over charged like that.

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If the battery over charges it can be damaged. There is a sequence to testing and repairing your charging system. First have your battery load tested. If you do a search you will find a load of info here on the forum.

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Your lockouts and safety switching will not cause a drain or undue load on the system unless some one has done some serious damage to your wiring.

I noticed that you have referenced the topped off voltage of your battery as 13 plus volts. That's with the engine off correct? Is your bike starting normally? Does it prime?

If your regulator/rectifier is shorted it could be why your plug burned and your stator failed. If the regulator/rectifier is shorted and defective it can again damage the new stator and plug assembly.

Your regulator/rectifier (R/R) is a shunt type and loads the stator once the battery has reached it's intended charge. Was your bike jump started or charged from a running automobile? This can blow the R/R.

Here's a schematic that may help you understand your charging system. Although the end results are basically the same a car and bike system go about it in a different way.

Here is some good reading: http://www.electrosport.com/media//image/tech-article-how-motorcycle-works-illustration-01.gif



I prefer the resistance check for the stator because I feel like we will all get closer readings doing this service manual ohm test.

The voltage test should be done with the meter in alternating current mode if you are measuring the stator output. There is no data for testing voltage in the service manual. The stator is classified as a magneto. It uses positive and negative poled magnets to produce alternating current in the stator windings. Because of this and the fact that there is no load except the very high input impedance of the meter, the readings may not tell us what we really need to know about the stator condition. Phase relation changes with RPM of the motor and that may not reflect what voltage would be under the slightest load. Measuring output this way is dependent on frequency, phase of interacting positive and negative wave forms as well as inductive reactance. With the ohm test you should get a better picture.

Keep us updated on what you find.

started over battery test good used dc setting. test stator connector shows 02.4 ohm. running. .08 unplugged not running. across all three.

hootowlredneck said:

started over battery test good used dc setting. test stator connector shows 02.4 ohm. running. .08 unplugged not running. across all three.

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Okay... Don't test the stator with you meter in the ohms mode while the stator is being operated. You may now have a damaged meter or have blown the fuse in the meter. With a known good meter measure the resistance of the 3 stator leads. Put the meter in x1 range in ohms mode. Do not run the motor!

sorry I ment I tested the stator unplugged in ohms shows .08 across not running. then tested it running in ac. cold it showed 03.3 and warm up it shows 02.4 volts

I am useing a cen tec metter on ohms 2k shows .08 connectors unplugged not running and on a/c used 200 range shows 03.3 cold and 02.4 warm so I asume that would be 4 ohms and 33 volts cold 24 warm unplugged running