PC3 USB rewiring for FZ6

Hi guys,

Anyone got a PC3 from a different bike and rewired / made custom connectors for FZ6? If so, could you please post pictures of your assembly, describe the process please?

From what I gather, the units are all the same, the difference in PC3 models comes with the connectors only, and when scouting the net I was able to find some posts of guys making PC3 work with their bikes by rewiring.

The reason for this is that I'd like to buy the unit used, there are loads of these on ebay with really good prices (EU), but none for FZ6 really.

I Googled it and haven't found a pin-out spec for the PClll so I would contact Dynojet and see if they can give you a pin-out schematic. You might expect them to say they don't have that info but it's worth a try. I'm pretty jammed this week but if I get a chance I'll try contacting them and see if they have this info.

Edit: I've sent a request to tech support at Dynojet....

I've contacted Dynojet and here is the response. It is important info as we have had this question come up more than once

Please read carefully because although the color codes used are the same the internals for the Power Commander lll are specific to the model of bike it is intended for.

"We use the same wire colors to do the same things on pretty much all Power Commanders, but the modules are not all the same with different wire harnesses. Power Commanders are model specific devices in many ways besides the wiring harness (internal circuit boards, loaded configurations, etc.). What the forum member is trying to do is unsupported, and will likely not work at all or not work as the device is intended to. The unit is also programmed to only accept map files that were made with the same Power Commander type."



Red = power

Black = ground

Grey = TPS signal input

Black/white = TPS ground (digital/sensor ground)

Orange = injector #1 input

Yellow = injector #2 input

Green = injector #3 input

Blue = injector #4 input

White/orange = injector #1 output

White/yellow = injector #2 output

White/green = injector #3 output

White/blue = injector #4 output



Regards,
Chris Kelly
Dynojet Research Inc.
2191 Mendenhall Dr. Suite 105
North Las Vegas, NV 89081
1-800-992-4993

Thanks Motogiro for going through all this. I hardly believe support person's reply though, but I don't have the funds to dispute this at the moment. Maybe, if I get a PC3 real cheap I'll try this mod, otherwise buying a 410-411 is the only safe way to spend money

n0other said:

Thanks Motogiro for going through all this. I hardly believe support person's reply though, but I don't have the funds to dispute this at the moment. Maybe, if I get a PC3 real cheap I'll try this mod, otherwise buying a 410-411 is the only safe way to spend money

Click to expand...

What he's saying does make sense with regard to solid state devices and where the thresholds, circuit bias, chip sets, and other factors may be concerned. You may find that a certain PClll may cross over provided the plugs are pinned out properly but which one if any are not known to us. You would have to ID down to component level on the PCB and I don't know if that's possible on these units. Another factor is when you're buying a used unit how do you really know it works properly without having the bike dyno'd. Honestly with out a tune it's a crap shoot as to what map will work good with your bike. Component to component matched maps might get you close but you really need to tune it to your motor.
I totally understand wanting to get more ponies out of the motor and I have done fuel management with a dyno tune. I spent lot's of money for near 4 rwhp gain. Yes the bike ran super good but I had to spend money. I had a new PClll and spent over $300 for a good tune from a reputable tuner here in SoCal.

Good luck on your search!