What is it about Fz1 bars and Fz1 Forks people like?

Ssky0078 · Dec 6, 2012

Hello all,

I was hoping someone could tell me why people mod their Fz6 with Fz1 handlebars and forks. I tried searching threads and didn't come to any clear straightforward discussions. If there are members who can send me that link great.

What makes the Fz1 bars that much better?

What makes the Fz1 forks better? (the only thing I can think of is the adjustability, which over on the Fz8 forum many pointed out most people wouldn't know how to set anyway)

p.s. this is more so about function/performance than style discussion, please

Hellgate · Dec 6, 2012

If you are thinking of FZ1 forks get R1s instead. They are a quantum leap in performance for the same coin.

Sent from my LG-P925 using Tapatalk 2

Erci · Dec 6, 2012

Many (if not most) people find stock FZ6 bar to be uncomfortable due to *too much* back-sweep.

I was one of those people. I felt crippled after my first ride on FZ6 for just 20 minutes.

FZ1 bar solves this issue, because it's much straighter. It also has no rise at all (flat bar), so it drops the grips about an inch. Most people like the sportier position they gain from switching to FZ1 bar. It's also one of the cheapest handlebar mods, as the bar itself is inexpensive and it accepts FZ6 bar ends.

As for the forks, I've no personal experience with R1 setup, but going from FZ6 to FZ1 was quite noticeable. The fact that FZ1 fork is fully adjustable (both legs have pre-load adjustment, one side has compression adjustment and the other has rebound adjustment) allows you to set it up to your liking.

For example, stock FZ6 fork dives a LOT under hard braking. Finding the right compression setting on FZ1 minimizes this effect.

FZ6 fork can be quite jumpy over washboard surfaces (pogo stick effect.. due to non-adjustable rebound). This can be addressed by switching to heavier oil, but it can also cause the fork to react too slowly in some situations.

On FZ1, it's just a matter of finding the right rebound adjustment to control this.

FZ6 fork is also set up for a ~150 rider, so if you're a good bit over that, it will have too much sag, which can be addressed via spacers or new springs.

On FZ1, you can dial in pre-load to get the sag right.

The theory is this: the better your suspension is (and of course it requires proper tuning), the better your wheel keeps contact with the ground. More contact = more traction; more traction = less likely to lose control.

Now.. having said all that, simplest upgrade for FZ6, as far as fork goes, would be R6 swap. Much easier than fitting FZ1 fork and it's fully adjustable.

Furthermore, I'm sure this becomes very evident and critical on the track and in general the harder you push the more you'll benefit from good adjustable setup... BUT.. I rode my FZ6 on the street without making any changes to suspension and honestly, I never felt like it was keeping me from riding better. I think it's more than adequate in stock form, for street application, provided you're not really *big* (I'm 170) :don'tknow:

I know how to tune suspension, coming from many years of mountain biking (especially downhilling) and properly setup quality suspension makes enormous difference there, but for sane street riding I think stock FZ6 does just fine.

Of course there's also this huge counterpoint: modding is fun!

Yasko · Dec 6, 2012

Comfort, and ease of ride.:thumbup:

FinalImpact · Dec 6, 2012

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/42817-best-investment-ever-r6-forks-rides-so-nice.html

That was my take on it. The bars also get you over the nose giving better feel of the situation below and the wrist angle.

david323 · Dec 6, 2012

The slightly lowered stance is an added benefit to the FZ1 bars, but I got them simply because after 20 minutes on the stockers my pinkies would go numb from the sweep angle. The new bars are SO much better in terms of comfort and IMHO the new stance adds to better control of the bike by bringing the center of gravity slightly forward and down.

I plan to do the R6 forks in the next couple of weeks (that's the plan at least). There is just too much pogo-stick action from the stock setup for me and the cost of new race tech springs/oil and R6/R6S forks and a spacer kit are about the same, but the R6 forks have external adjustability you won't get with the stock forks (unless you get some new caps as well - but at that point I still think the R6 forks are the easier route since they are engineered for adjustability inside and out). The R6 forks also come in about a half inch shorter which aids turn-in.

Erci · Dec 6, 2012

david323 said:
The R6 forks also come in about a half inch shorter which aids turn-in.

That part can be accomplished for free by sliding stock fork legs up half inch in triple trees :thumbup:

trepetti · Dec 6, 2012

Erci said:
Many (if not most) people find stock FZ6 bar to be uncomfortable due to *too much* back-sweep.

I was one of those people. I felt crippled after my first ride on FZ6 for just 20 minutes.

FZ1 bar solves this issue, because it's much straighter. It also has no rise at all (flat bar), so it drops the grips about an inch. Most people like the sportier position they gain from switching to FZ1 bar. It's also one of the cheapest handlebar mods, as the bar itself is inexpensive and it accepts FZ6 bar ends.

As for the forks, I've no personal experience with R1 setup, but going from FZ6 to FZ1 was quite noticeable. The fact that FZ1 fork is fully adjustable (both legs have pre-load adjustment, one side has compression adjustment and the other has rebound adjustment) allows you to set it up to your liking.

For example, stock FZ6 fork dives a LOT under hard braking. Finding the right compression setting on FZ1 minimizes this effect.

FZ6 fork can be quite jumpy over washboard surfaces (pogo stick effect.. due to non-adjustable rebound). This can be addressed by switching to heavier oil, but it can also cause the fork to react too slowly in some situations.

On FZ1, it's just a matter of finding the right rebound adjustment to control this.

FZ6 fork is also set up for a ~150 rider, so if you're a good bit over that, it will have too much sag, which can be addressed via spacers or new springs.

On FZ1, you can dial in pre-load to get the sag right.

The theory is this: the better your suspension is (and of course it requires proper tuning), the better your wheel keeps contact with the ground. More contact = more traction; more traction = less likely to lose control.

Now.. having said all that, simplest upgrade for FZ6, as far as fork goes, would be R6 swap. Much easier than fitting FZ1 fork and it's fully adjustable.

Furthermore, I'm sure this becomes very evident and critical on the track and in general the harder you push the more you'll benefit from good adjustable setup... BUT.. I rode my FZ6 on the street without making any changes to suspension and honestly, I never felt like it was keeping me from riding better. I think it's more than adequate in stock form, for street application, provided you're not really *big* (I'm 170) :don'tknow:

I know how to tune suspension, coming from many years of mountain biking (especially downhilling) and properly setup quality suspension makes enormous difference there, but for sane street riding I think stock FZ6 does just fine.

Of course there's also this huge counterpoint: modding is fun!

I am interested in a spring / oil mod, at 210 I am sure I will benefit. Not necessarily looking for the cheap, but I see people selling preload caps. I know this will shorten the spring, but it will also stiffen it. What are the downsides to doing this instead of real springs?

Xavias · Dec 6, 2012

Erci said:
That part can be accomplished for free by sliding stock fork legs up half inch in triple trees :thumbup:

Which would also allow you to put on CBR1100X clip-ons, right?

FinalImpact · Dec 6, 2012

trepetti said:
I am interested in a spring / oil mod, at 210 I am sure I will benefit. Not necessarily looking for the cheap, but I see people selling preload caps. I know this will shorten the spring, but it will also stiffen it. What are the downsides to doing this instead of real springs?

EDIT: NOTE DECIMAL PLACE IS OFF 1 in GREY TEXT! See CORRECTED BLUE Bold Text!

The rate is still the same! This is easy to see on the fixed rate spring that has the same rate until its completely collapsed and into coil stack/coil bind. However the stock FZ6 springs are not linear and the rate increases as they're compressed. At full extension they start at 7.5kg/mm and at full compression the rate is something like 12.0kg/mm. 0.75kg/mm and at full compression the rate is something like 1.20kg/mm. But thats only the last 20mm of travel or there abouts. Also, compressing the springs installed height will raise the static height of the bike (potentially) topping out the forks and not addressing the lack of damping.

So effectively on a stock FZ6 front spring adding pre-load increases the rate but not in a desirable manor as non linear springs just don't belong up front except on a Cadillac!

Also keep in mind that that Pogo Stick action is due to the lack of controlled damping. It has nothing to do with spring rate, pre-load, or ride height.

Erci · Dec 6, 2012

FinalImpact said:
The rate is still the same! This is easy to see on the fixed rate spring. However the stock FZ6 springs are not linear and the rate increases as they're compressed. At full extension they start at 7.5kg/m and at full compression the rate is 12.0kg/m. But thats only the last 20mm of travel. Also, compressing the springs installed height will raise the static height of the bike (potentially) topping out the forks and not addressing the lack of damping.

So effectively on a stock FZ6 front spring adding pre-load increases the rate but not in a desirable manor as non linear springs just don't belong up front except on a Cadillac!

Also keep in mind that that Pogo Stick action is due to the lack of controlled damping. It has nothing to do with spring rate, pre-load, or ride height.

+1 to everything. Well said.

Erci · Dec 6, 2012

Xavias said:
Which would also allow you to put on CBR1100X clip-ons, right?

Are you talking about mounting clip-ons over top clamp? You'll have to slide the legs up quite a bit more than 1/2" for that.

FinalImpact · Dec 6, 2012

Erci said:
I think it's more than adequate in stock form, for street application, provided you're not really *big* (I'm 170) :don'tknow:

I know how to tune suspension, coming from many years of mountain biking (especially downhilling) and properly setup quality suspension makes enormous difference there, but for sane street riding I think stock FZ6 does just fine.

Of course there's also this huge counterpoint: modding is fun!

At 185, i Qualify then!!! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

This is just me but I didn't care for how imperfections in the roads surface in a corner allowed the stock nose to dance and effectively change my line without my consent! I find that unacceptable. Adding to it, should one need to brake from speed in a corner and hit some dips/bumps, the R6 nose keeps me favorably in control with my "chosen line" still intact which suits my needs far better than the stock setup.

Not to mention braking straight from 70 mph. So much better control then it had stock. But I'm picky after desert racing 250's / 500's at crazy speeds through the sage brush! I know what I want and this got me pretty close. I'm working on the back now. . .

What is it about Fz1 bars and Fz1 Forks people like?

Ssky0078

Junior Member

Hellgate

Moto Demi-God

Erci

Howie Mandel's evil twin

Yasko

Senior Member

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone

david323

Can't Re Member

Erci

Howie Mandel's evil twin

trepetti

It's all good!

Xavias

Shenanigans.

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone

Erci

Howie Mandel's evil twin

Erci

Howie Mandel's evil twin

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone

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