Looking for ideas and pictures of clean wiring solutions

Olas

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I absolutely cannot stand messy wiring jobs. I like everything to be tucked away neatly and safely so that everything looks clean and as if it came from the factory that way.

Having said that, I just installed oxford heated grips on my '07 FZ6 and ended up with a ton of extra wiring since the battery is so close to the bars. I tucked most of it away in the left hand side of the fairing but it is not as clean as I'd ultimately like it to be. I also plan on adding in a relay here soon which will leave me with even more stuff that needs to be hidden. If anyone has ideas, comments, pictures, concerns, etc... Please feel free to share them!

Thanks.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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I absolutely cannot stand messy wiring jobs. I like everything to be tucked away neatly and safely so that everything looks clean and as if it came from the factory that way.

Having said that, I just installed oxford heated grips on my '07 FZ6 and ended up with a ton of extra wiring since the battery is so close to the bars. I tucked most of it away in the left hand side of the fairing but it is not as clean as I'd ultimately like it to be. I also plan on adding in a relay here soon which will leave me with even more stuff that needs to be hidden. If anyone has ideas, comments, pictures, concerns, etc... Please feel free to share them!

Thanks.

I put in a marine grade(SS) power distribution block wired direct to the battery (extra insulation around the main wire-NO FUSE). Got it from West Marine.

It's velcroed inside the rt side fairing. (commercial grade velcro)

One side is Hot, the other side negative. Once a wire come off the block to go an accessory, its fused.

I use "Posi Tap" in line fuse connectors:
( Order Online- Discounts )
and attach the fuses where their still accesable. In this configuration, ALL the top contacts are hot ALL the time, the lower side of the block is ground.

For the GPS hook up, I wanted it to go OFF with the ignition(switched). That line is tapped into the front right directional running light..The ground does go to the low side of the block.

I have my left side BMW style outlet, Stebal horn (thru a relay), etc, attached to the block

As for any accessory with extra wire that can't be trimmed (my Speedohealer, top speed indicator line), I wrapped it in a circular, tight wrap, used small zip ties and tucked in neatly in a recess adjacent to the lower, left side under seat tool area (actually, you can see part of it in picture #4, just above the BMW style electrical outlet-to the left of the pillion peg mount)...

The heavy line in the first photo, on the left side, runs separate power lines (already fused) inside the fairing to the other side of the bike for the horn and further back to the outlet...
 
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FinalImpact

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Nothing personal but I will not do exposed lugs on anything with fuel and batteries. Although adhesives are good these days, I'm not into securing electrical components with them and will opt for metal fasteners. In a basic example the vibes are strike against it, now add heat and fuel and it breads the perfect storm.
I'll need to look when I get home but there are blocks like this with built in fuses and complete shielding should bad things happen. Let me get back to you.

On other items where factory wiring is in place I try to find the original connector to Mate things too. Its why I started this thread. http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...-where-you-found-electrical-parts-thread.html

In here I soldered this mess together when the OEM blinkers were replaced on the tail. Its just a strong and tidy as the OEM. Shrink wrap is your friend. Get lots in lots of sizes and use it sparingly.

Here is a thread on a tail tidy install that might be worth a glance. http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/43909-what-the2wheels-dont-tell-you-led-stalks.html
 

Olas

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Thanks for the input so far..

I am really considering going with one of these in the future:

016_fs.jpg


001_fs.jpg


I like the built in relay and the ability to switch from constant power to switched power on any of it's 6 circuits just by moving a fuse.

A side of me says I need it, and the other is telling me it is overkill for a bike like the FZ6. All I am running is Oxford heated grips (48 Watts at max draw) and a heated vest (52 W max) and I think if I were to run anything else I'd run the risk of killing my battery.
 

regder

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This is how mine is setup. Fuse at the battery, with the wiring running to underneath the seat. There I have a standard five point relay switched by a wire tapped into the tailight wiring. The 12V output from the relay goes to a fused dist. block (bought from a towing supply store), negative is collected by a linked barrier strip.

It's not the prettiest, but it does work and it's bulletproof. Best part is, if you need to tap into power in an emergency, you just have to lift the seat. Downside is it's pretty big, and takes up some space. Good thing our underseat compartment is useless anyways.

Next time around I'm tempted to go with something like the Centech fuse boxes, a little pricey, but considerably smaller and cleaner. This ghetto setup cost me maybe $15 for everything though

IMG_2605.jpg


IMG_2604.jpg
 
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