Completely screwed!!

dolau

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So...... the apparent problem with the radiator fan that stopped the bike from starting has a completely different problem which will virtually scrap the bike. (Still have the problem with the radiator fan I guess)
:eek:
The mechanic has found the problem- there is corrosion in the plug connecting to the ECU and two pins on the ECU have corroded away and are shorting out the other pins. This is a three year old bike that has done 8000 miles- not a winter hack!

Mechanic says I need a new CPU and possible plug but worse that that I need a new ignition barrel and new set of keys coded to the ECU and the whole bike coded to the ECU as this is the brain of the bike- Estimated cost approaching £2000 :spank:

I dont have £2000 to spenjd on the bike and so would be grateful if anyone on here knows which years ECU's are compatible with my 2009 FZ6S2? I dont know if earlier versions or later vesions would be suitable and hopefully I can find one on EBAY as a set from a scrap donor bike.

The alternative seems to be scrapping my pride and joy and selling it off in bits (other than the ECU) and hope to make enough money to buy another bike

In the meantime- check under the tank to the rear near the shock absorber and see if any water has been getting in- not sure what to recommend then- unplug it and hope nothing breaks so you can vaseline the pins or leave it alone:stupidpc:
 

MrMogensen

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Is your bike parked outside (in rain and moist weather) during bike season or?

My FZ6 has just passed 54.000 km (=33k miles) and now 7 years old. I think I need to check out that plug...
Have ridden in rainy and cold weather (not snow though), but never parked outside (or at least without a roof over). Anyone know if the ECU plug etc. is different from 04/06 to 07-?
 

dolau

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No- and I havent used a pressure washer on it but the mechanic has identified a big hole between the suspension are and the back of the ECU plug
 

MrMogensen

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Did it melt, crack or break or... ?
Did you make some kind of repair or adjustment in that area and maybe a tool flicked (and caused this without you noticing).
 

acniss

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i dont see why you would neeed a whole new ignition barrel and keys, I put ECM's in cars all the time at work and we just reprogram the old keys to the new ECM. ask if that can be done should have some money there
 

Tailgate

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Wow, this is a case for extended warranty purchase! Bike has an engineering defect and if you go past the standard one-year warranty w/o extended warranty, you're screwed! But you have to now, they say, totally replace the ECU? Wow.
 

Motogiro

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i dont see why you would neeed a whole new ignition barrel and keys, I put ECM's in cars all the time at work and we just reprogram the old keys to the new ECM. ask if that can be done should have some money there

In other countries they have immobilizer circuits that are encoded to the ECU.

Edit :Yes I see what you're talking about..:)
 
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Motogiro

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So...... the apparent problem with the radiator fan that stopped the bike from starting has a completely different problem which will virtually scrap the bike. (Still have the problem with the radiator fan I guess)
:eek:
The mechanic has found the problem- there is corrosion in the plug connecting to the ECU and two pins on the ECU have corroded away and are shorting out the other pins. This is a three year old bike that has done 8000 miles- not a winter hack!

Mechanic says I need a new CPU and possible plug but worse that that I need a new ignition barrel and new set of keys coded to the ECU and the whole bike coded to the ECU as this is the brain of the bike- Estimated cost approaching £2000 :spank:

I dont have £2000 to spenjd on the bike and so would be grateful if anyone on here knows which years ECU's are compatible with my 2009 FZ6S2? I dont know if earlier versions or later vesions would be suitable and hopefully I can find one on EBAY as a set from a scrap donor bike.

The alternative seems to be scrapping my pride and joy and selling it off in bits (other than the ECU) and hope to make enough money to buy another bike

In the meantime- check under the tank to the rear near the shock absorber and see if any water has been getting in- not sure what to recommend then- unplug it and hope nothing breaks so you can vaseline the pins or leave it alone:stupidpc:

Okay..take a deep breath...How about going with US version system. ECU and ignition switch? :confused:
 

acniss

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In other countries they have immobilizer circuits that are encoded to the ECU.

ok I was just wondering cus i work at a nissan dealer that has a simlar immbolizer system in all the cars, we normally just have to program the new ECU/ECM to the old keys

just saw the edit
 

dolau

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Thanks guys- I was just going by what my mechanic said- he isnt a Yamaha mechanic but he knows the nearest on to me- 50 miles away and thats what they told him.
I have been on the net and there are ECU repairers (for cars) so I have contacted them
There is a 2007 (I guess silver engine) complete set of a scrapper for about £400 - mine is the black engine S2 and I have no idea if they changed anything between the two or they are compatible.
I have written to Yamaha and asked if as it is a low mileage three year old bike whether they could sell me a set direct cheaper on good faith and good will.

Never been anywhere near the CPU- it is under the tank right at the rear of the air box bay next to a hole into the air and water where you adjust the preload on the rear shock.

Seems I have some improvements to do if I can get the bike going again- mod the rad fan so that doesnt wreck again and block the space between the shock and the air box.

Thanks for all your advice guys- appreciated!
 

GTPAddict

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I believe the 2007-2009 are pretty much the same, so that seems to be a viable option. Another option, as stated above, would be to get a US version of the ECU and just do away with the immobilizer. This may not be something you want to do if you're worried about someone stealing the bike, but then again it's just as easy to load it up on a truck as it would be to hack the ign cylinder.

Sorry to hear about your troubles. When you get it fixed, be sure to insulate the ECU connector with some good dielectric compound. This will help keep water out and corrosion down.
 

FinalImpact

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From RonAyers. . . 4S8-8591A-10-00
2008, Yamaha, ENGINE CONTROL UNIT
2009, Yamaha, FZS6YL/FZS6YB/FZS6YCL/FZS6YCB

So perhaps a US ECM and forgo the alarm. fleebay has them from $40 up.

Can you do some good Macro pictures of the defects? ecm / connector(s)
 

dolau

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No I dont have ABS on my bike but if I have that right the US version doesnt have an imobilizer? do you have a red key to code to your ECU?

I was told a lot of the cost was getting new keys and barrel and I guess petrol cap so that you have a new set of keys coded to the new ECU and yet others are saying you can get a virgin ECU and use the old keys

To be honest I am confused- all my spanners are left handed and I try not to use them and just ride the damn thing- thats where the enjoyment is not fettling continuously.

I will take some pictures of the ECU and plug tomorrow at the shop in case Mr Yamaha responds to my email and wants more details

Cheers
 

Motogiro

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No I dont have ABS on my bike but if I have that right the US version doesnt have an imobilizer? do you have a red key to code to your ECU?

I was told a lot of the cost was getting new keys and barrel and I guess petrol cap so that you have a new set of keys coded to the new ECU and yet others are saying you can get a virgin ECU and use the old keys

To be honest I am confused- all my spanners are left handed and I try not to use them and just ride the damn thing- thats where the enjoyment is not fettling continuously.

I will take some pictures of the ECU and plug tomorrow at the shop in case Mr Yamaha responds to my email and wants more details

Cheers

Our US bikes don't have an immobilizer unless we put a security device that immobilizes the bike. Euro bikes that come here seem to have them already installed but the Japanese bikes don't.

As long as it's legal and the pin outs are are the same on the ECU, you should be able to go with a US ECU and ignition switch.

Maybe you don't even need a US version ignition switch? You may be able to use the same switch and there is no use of the immobilizer circuit while all the other connections will be good with the US ECU?

For the difference in what the price would be for economic feasibility in keeping your bike I would definitely research this.
 

FinalImpact

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Our US bikes don't have an immobilizer unless we put a security device that immobilizes the bike. Euro bikes that come here seem to have them already installed but the Japanese bikes don't.

As long as it's legal and the pin outs are are the same on the ECU, you should be able to go with a US ECU and ignition switch.

Maybe you don't even need a US version ignition switch? You may be able to use the same switch and there is no use of the immobilizer circuit while all the other connections will be good with the US ECU?

For the difference in what the price would be for economic feasibility in keeping your bike I would definitely research this.

Cliff, It's likely been a while since looking under a fiz but my US 08 has small white bodied connector which is nearly square in nature but has about 5 wires going into it (6 pin housing). Its under the seat in plane sight and has rubberized black cap over it to seal it. Most all of the wires are **appear** to be black with yellowish dots. Anyway I was wondering if this was diagnostic port or something like that/ABS/ALARM??? I took a picture but don't have it with for reference. Any idea what it is or is used for?


I would still like to see the damage on this ECM and really wonder if how bad it is. Anything that's growing between conductors could impair low lever inputs and I'm having a hard time believing it ate the spades off completely. . . But its possible.
 

Motogiro

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Cliff, It's likely been a while since looking under a fiz but my US 08 has small white bodied connector which is nearly square in nature but has about 5 wires going into it (6 pin housing). Its under the seat in plane sight and has rubberized black cap over it to seal it. Most all of the wires are **appear** to be black with yellowish dots. Anyway I was wondering if this was diagnostic port or something like that/ABS/ALARM??? I took a picture but don't have it with for reference. Any idea what it is or is used for?


I would still like to see the damage on this ECM and really wonder if how bad it is. Anything that's growing between conductors could impair low lever inputs and I'm having a hard time believing it ate the spades off completely. . . But its possible.

Unless it lists it in the manual I would not know what the plug is for. We could guess and I think your idea is a good one. My SV has a plug like that and it is used with a jumper to let the ECU know when a tech is trying to extract error code history as well as allow adjustment of the TPS. It puts it in a mode so that the LCD read out can be used to see where the beginning of the TPS signal is physically. Then the jumper is pulled and the plug is capped again.
Could be the same on the FZ6 when they need to read history or even a way to allow reflashing of the ECU should there be an update or software problem.

In other climates with salt put down there could be damage but I also am surprised that this critical area would be so exposed! Could it be there was a seal left out of the connector assembly? :confused:

Additionally: Black with Yellow wire in the FZ6 is the high beam and the other circuit that uses Black with Yellow is the clutch switch and that goes to an ECU input...
 
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FinalImpact

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This is the little devil I'm talking about. . .

picture.php


Anyone - is this plug used on your bike?
 
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