Power/Ground Distribution

Hey all,

I've worked my way through the expected electrical mods: Second headlight, cigarette lighter socket, battery tender, voltmeter, all relay-switched (except the battery tender). My wiring has become a rats nest.

I decided it's time to fix it.


[ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VU9D1G/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i03]Amazon.com: HELLA H84960091 6-Way Lateral Single Fuse Box: Automotive[/ame]

I bought this fusebox (the 6-gang version). It's got a cover, and I think it will be relatively splash-resistant. It has spade connectors, so I think they will be better protected than screw terminals will be. Downside is that it doesn't include power or ground distribution. Each fuse slot has an IN and an OUT, so I will need to split the power (and ground) cable from the battery 6-ways.

Is anyone else doing anything like this? How did you handle splitting multiple accessories? Do you just have multiple wires going directly to the battery, did you make a Y or Daisy-Chain cable? For grounding, did you use a similar cable, or a ground post?

Also - where did you put everything and how did you attach it? I want to put a lot of this inside the front fairing so that it's easy to get to when I need it, but there's not a lot of decent attachment points. I'm thinking I might epoxy the fusebox right to the inside of the fairing, but I'm not sure where I would put the ground terminal. All suggestions are welcome!

You would be better off getting a fused distribution block. That way you have one + coming in and fused.

What ever you do with your fuse panel the ground system is separate. You could do separate ground points to the frame/engine. You could do one single heavy ground wire to a terminal block/bus where you would attach your separate grounds from individual circuits.

Here's an example.


Terminal Strips & Bus Bars

ChevyFazer said:

You would be better off getting a fused distribution block. That way you have one + coming in and fused.

Click to expand...

That's what I'd prefer - but they seem to not exist in a "splashproof" variety for a reasonable price. They do have some very fancy power distribution modules (PDM60 looks awesome, but it costs $130)

Something like this would be nice, but there's no cover at all to prevent moisture from getting into the fuse sockets or connectors

Motogiro said:

What ever you do with your fuse panel the ground system is separate.

Click to expand...

The way I'm doing it, yes - but they do make fuseboxes that combine the distribution of power and ground in the unit, I just couldn't find one I liked. Product development opportunity! I'd definitely pay $20 for a fuseblock that had power and ground distribution, all nicely weather-shielded.

You could do separate ground points to the frame/engine. You could do one single heavy ground wire to a terminal block/bus where you would attach your separate grounds from individual circuits.

Click to expand...

I was thinking of doing a single low-gauge ground wire back to the battery, due to the lack of metal to ground directly to in the front fairing. I was considering using a terminal block like that, but I'm worried about having that much exposed metal that isn't stainless. I don't want to install this whole thing and end up with a rusty mess!

At this point I'm leaning towards either making a spider-cable for the grounds, so that each connection is insulated from the elements, or using ring-terminals on a single ground terminal bolt.

What do you use on your bike?

Se7enLC said:

The way I'm doing it, yes - but they do make fuseboxes that combine the distribution of power and ground in the unit, I just couldn't find one I liked. Product development opportunity! I'd definitely pay $20 for a fuseblock that had power and ground distribution, all nicely weather-shielded.



I was thinking of doing a single low-gauge ground wire back to the battery, due to the lack of metal to ground directly to in the front fairing. I was considering using a terminal block like that, but I'm worried about having that much exposed metal that isn't stainless. I don't want to install this whole thing and end up with a rusty mess!

At this point I'm leaning towards either making a spider-cable for the grounds, so that each connection is insulated from the elements, or using ring-terminals on a single ground terminal bolt.

What do you use on your bike?

Click to expand...

I only have a tender wire and lighter plug for acc'sy so I don't have a buss or fuse block.

You can get a SS fuse power distributuon block at most any marine parts store.

I got mine from West Marine. One side is hot, one is negative. Accessorys are fused after that...

8-2-12, Update. Below are pics of my set up.

If you still have a faired version, there's plenty of room under the right side fairing. Mine is securred with industrial velcro. The + and - leads/wire are direct from the battery, in a extra sheathing not fused.. One side of the bar is +, the other -. Once an accessory, BMW outlet, GPS, Stebal horn, etc is attached its fused (keep reading) after that (as you can see in the photo's), all the ground wires run to the the same block. I did have a piece of plastic, which I heated and bent the ends to fit atop the block (again with velcro). Unfortunatly, that apparently came off...

The center picture, on the right side of the block, shows the main wire feed (fairly heavy lines) from the battery. Its routed back, makes a curve and goes back thru the frame (where the right handlebar switch wire harness enters) and up to the battery direct. Its the ONLY aftermarket attachement to the battery and keeps things neat.. The 4th picture is from the below website.

The bikes been to approx 114 MPH without this set up, about two years, no problems... Again, I have the same, larger block under the center console of my boat, used primarily in salt water however it is tucked under the console pretty much out of the elements.

BTW, I checked the West Marine site and it wasn't on there. Its very possible its just not listed but in the store. The one on my bike was originally in the boat, I needed the next size larger on the boat, this one got transferred to the bike.

"Posi Lock" Blade fuse holders is what I use/pictured: http://www.posi-lock.com/shoponline.cfm#1 , not cheap but are really handy and make for a custom, very neat and secure install (10 piece box)..



Here ya go, I didn't get it here but this what I have:

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...Sea+Systems+DualBus+100+Ampere+Common+BusBars

TownsendsFJR1300 said:

You can get a SS fuse power distributuon block at most any marine parts store.

I got mine from West Marine. One side is hot, one is negative. Accessorys are fused after that...

Click to expand...

I can't find anything like that on their website, can you link to the one you got?

I also had the 6 gang version of that fuse box installed on my bike but I didn't really get on with it and had problems with my Heat Grips resetting at odd times while on a ride. Probably more to do with my attempt to get it all wired up than the terminal block itself but I was always concerned about water getting in and corrosion.

In the end I replaced it with an enclosed fuse block that provided both switched and permanent feeds, where the feed type is controlled by the fuse position.

FUZEBLOCKS.COM

One of these fuseblocks is now installed under the seat and I have the heated grips, power socket for phone/gps connected to it so far and soon a pair of BikeVis bullet lights.

Se7enLC said:

I can't find anything like that on their website, can you link to the one you got?

Click to expand...

Please look at my original post, #7, which I updated...


The DIRECT link to the Busbar itself:

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...Sea+Systems+DualBus+100+Ampere+Common+BusBars

As I noted earlier, I know West Marine carries them, its just not listed for some reason. I've purchased two of the smaller (one for a customer), one large one for the boat and the smaller one, which WAS in the boat, got put on the FZ, ALL from West Marine...

JasonB said:

I also had the 6 gang version of that fuse box installed on my bike but I didn't really get on with it and had problems with my Heat Grips resetting at odd times while on a ride. Probably more to do with my attempt to get it all wired up than the terminal block itself but I was always concerned about water getting in and corrosion.

In the end I replaced it with an enclosed fuse block that provided both switched and permanent feeds, where the feed type is controlled by the fuse position.

FUZEBLOCKS.COM

One of these fuseblocks is now installed under the seat and I have the heated grips, power socket for phone/gps connected to it so far and soon a pair of BikeVis bullet lights.

Click to expand...

Great accessory!

Se7enLC said:

I can't find anything like that on their website, can you link to the one you got?

Click to expand...

The link is just above the LOWER PICTURE...


http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...Sea+Systems+DualBus+100+Ampere+Common+BusBars

Thanks everyone for the suggestions! Here's what I went with:



6-gang "Splash Proof" Fuse Box made by Hella (the cover isn't shown in that photo). I internally bridged the 6 fuses together on the input side so that it acts as a power distribution block (I cut off the extra terminals, too). I used some serious epoxy to glue a polycarbonate block to the inside of the right fairing, and tapped some holes to bolt the fuse box to it. On the right bolt, I attached the relay. The left bolt is acting as a ground lug.

Relay is about $5. The fuse box was $7. The rest of the cost was just wires and connectors. I've so far wired up the cigarette lighter socket ($7 at WalMart) and a USB power supply (3A 12VDC to 5VDC converter with a USB-A female plug, $6 on eBay). The voltmeter I had broke, so once I replace it, I'll have that wired up as well. That leaves me 3 open circuits for future use.