Urgent: Turn signals stopped working 8 hours before a 10 day road trip!!! Argh!

This morning at a left turn I switched my signals and heard a "puff" sound and realized that my signals were not indicating (even on the speedo cluster). The Hazzard lights are not coming on either (not indicated on the speedo cluster either).

Does this sound like a fuse problem. As far as I can tell all other eletrical stuff works. Horn, headlight, bike starts (didn't check my break or licence lights). I am not sure if the marker lights (in turn signals) are on either. But I can check in a couple hours and get back if that helps diagnose the problem.

I am leaving for a 10 day road trip on the bike in 9 hours. Please tell me the fix is as easy as a fuse somewhere on the bike!

Where is the fuse box anyways? I am stuck at work!

Finally found a useful non led signal thread.

I will verify the tail light at lunch based on this thread. Hope this is my answer!

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/11894-where-r-fuses.html

But still open to other theories just in case, since I am short on time!

i had this when i think rain got in somewhere. didn't find the cause, but i put some wd40 in my handlebar switches and covered the front facing bits with duct tape.

when it happened to me i lost the rear light as well, the fuse was fine and they started working the next day

I know WD-40 is a water displacer. But wouldn't WD40 cause a short circut by completing a circut not suppose to be connected?

Plus the bike hasn't been in the water in over 2 weeks, since it was washed last. It def has been humid, thought doubt that it would cause water to accumulate. I could be wrong. But I really hope its just the fuse.

Won't be able to check it till another 5 hours! Going to check all the other electrical in an hour or so.

Just checked fuses. They are all good!

The tail and license light work.
The headlight works hi and low
Horn works.
Marker lights work.

Hazzard lights don't work
Turn signals don't work.

Could it be the signal controller/relay? If so how do I check?

Any other quick things that I can check?

subaron said:

Turn signals stopped working 8 hours before a 10 day road trip!!! Argh!

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Well... at least they didn't stop working 8 hours into a 10 day road trip

Did you smell anything burning with this "puff" sound?

Any chance you have access to a hand held multimeter?

Because all of the effected items appear to have their own ground I'm going to say 6 grounds didn't open all at once. The next most logical stop if the pod fuses are good is the flasher relay. Can you get someone to grab you flasher relay? But this doesn't explain the loss of brake light.


With a DC volt meter you can turn the key on and confirm that one side of the flasher relay (unplug relay) has 12V. If not, somewhere between the relay and the fuse you lost power.

Same is true of the brake lights. One side the hand brake switch should have power with the key on. I menthion this one as the spades are nearly exposed and its easy to check. If not, somewhere between the switch and the fuse you lost power. IF it has power, pull the lever in and and continue to measure the voltage. Does it stay at 12.XX volts? If it does and DOESN'T drop at ALL (Example 12.45V brake off, 12.45V brake on) so both sides of switch are the same voltage, then you have no load. Meaning the bulb burned out, or there is an open between the switch and the brake light. If it drops a huge amount, then you have a short after the switch.

Get meter and we can narrow this down quickly. . .

All hands on Deck! Thanks Guys!

subaron said:

Just checked fuses. They are all good!

The tail and license light work.
The headlight works hi and low
Horn works.
Marker lights work.

Hazzard lights don't work
Turn signals don't work.

Could it be the signal controller/relay? If so how do I check?

Any other quick things that I can check?

Click to expand...

So the brake light works? If so, get a new flasher relay or trade with your friends for a quick test. Even an auto one could be used for quick test with two jumper wires!

did you check every single fuse? my turn signals stopped working oncec and it happened to be a un-relevant fuse that had popped.

FinalImpact said:

Did you smell anything burning with this "puff" sound?

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No

FinalImpact said:

Any chance you have access to a hand held multimeter?

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No, but I can buy one. Wouldn't know how to use it though.

FinalImpact said:

The next most logical stop if the pod fuses are good is the flasher relay. Can you get someone to grab you flasher relay?

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I asked a buddy with a 1999 R1 to pop by after work to see if the relay is swapable. That way we can check the flasher relay.

FinalImpact said:

But this doesn't explain the loss of brake light.

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The brake light works fine

FinalImpact said:

With a DC volt meter you can turn the key on and confirm that one side of the flasher relay (unplug relay) has 12V. If not, somewhere between the relay and the fuse you lost power.

Click to expand...

Ok. Is there a crash course on using the DC volt meter? I will youtube. I like the idea of checking the flasher. Brake light is fine btw.

Thanks for the help. Much appriciated. I will still go on the trip flashers or not. But I would like flashers and more importantly I want to know something else won't fail. I am about to do a +-6000km round trip!

zacbkennedy said:

did you check every single fuse? my turn signals stopped working oncec and it happened to be a un-relevant fuse that had popped.

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I took out every single fuse under the right pannel and looked it. I even replaced a couple with brand new fuses. I will do look through again. I even checked the tail fuse in the yellow compartment next to main fuse.

pookamatic said:

Well... at least they didn't stop working 8 hours into a 10 day road trip

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I wish they did 8 hours after the trip! Right now if the GF notices I am not using the flashers from her bike, the trip would be jeapordized! It will be a hard convincing! :spank:

FinalImpact said:

So the brake light works? If so, get a new flasher relay or trade with your friends for a quick test. Even an auto one could be used for quick test with two jumper wires!

Click to expand...

Yes I will be trying this in about an hour.
Would it be possible to test the power to the relay by putting a bulb that can handle 12v and see if it lights up?

subaron said:

Yes I will be trying this in about an hour.
Would it be possible to test the power to the relay by putting a bulb that can handle 12v and see if it lights up?

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You can get a cheap 12 volt test light which is what I use 90 percent of the time to do trouble shooting Bike and auto electric. If I'm looking for specific voltages then I'll use a DVM (Digital Volt Meter)

Is your bike a naked bike and do you know where your flasher is?

subaron said:

Yes I will be trying this in about an hour.
Would it be possible to test the power to the relay by putting a bulb that can handle 12v and see if it lights up?

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Yes, when you grab the relay pick up a 12VDC test lamp. Usually pointy on one end and an aligator clip on the other with 12V incandescent lamp in the middle. If it has power between the two junctions the lamp lights.

On a 12Vdc system you look for potential energy between GND GROUND and the source.

Example 1:
The battery terminals " + " and " - " = Light On!

Example 2:
Battery terminal " - " to one side of fuse top => " + " = Light On (w/Key on)

Example 3:
Battery terminal " - " to one side of flasher relay => " + " = Light On (w/Key on).

Picture this: between the battery and a running light are are two wires. One leaving the battery + and headed to the lamp and one returning from the lamp to the battery ( - ). Lets call the power side (+) Strand A and the Negative side (-) Strand B. If you measure the from one end of Strand A to the other end of Strand A there is no voltage as the wire is one piece so there is no difference in potential. If you place a test lamp across this same section of wire it will not light. HOWEVER - if you cut the wire and measure from the Battery (+) side to the open break in the wire while the lamp is in the circuit, the light will light as there is voltage drop across the break.


Note: When test lamp is across the Battery it will be the brightest. If its NOT that bright anywhere else find out why! as you have lost energy somewhere!

Sorry haven't had access to the net since I started my trip last Friday. Late Friday I realized that the flasher relay is missing. Probably fell of somehow. Used hand signals the entire trip.

Now going to buy a used flasher relay on eBay. Wondering of anyone can confirm the model number on the relay. Research shows its a demos fe246bh!

Please let me know!

subaron said:

Sorry haven't had access to the net since I started my trip last Friday. Late Friday I realized that the flasher relay is missing. Probably fell of somehow. Used hand signals the entire trip.

Now going to buy a used flasher relay on eBay. Wondering of anyone can confirm the model number on the relay. Research shows its a demos fe246bh!

Please let me know!

Click to expand...

$8.95 can't beat it!
Super Bright LEDs - Electronic LED Flashers Specifications

LF1-S-Flat

And this will work with stock signals?

And I'd I was to change to led bulbs/signals it will maintain the correct rate?

Also is that female plug a direct fit?

Thanks

subaron said:

And this will work with stock signals?

And I'd I was to change to led bulbs/signals it will maintain the correct rate?

Also is that female plug a direct fit?

Thanks

Click to expand...

Yes will work with LED or OEM lamps or combination LED and OEM. I believe it is a direct plug in from someone else that ordered that same unit.

Bought a universal electronic flasher relay from Canadian tire (product number 20-1032-0) made by Tridon. Cost $9 plus change

Works perfectly with the bike. But original plug needs to be spliced and connected directly to the flasher.

Hopefully this helps someone in the future.