Fz6 r6?

SteelRain · Jun 20, 2012

IfI wanna pull the front wheel up on my 07 fz6 I have to damn near redline it in first dump the clutch and as I don't like punishing my bike like that I figured I'd look for better solutions. My buddys 02 r6 can pull the front wheel up with minimal clutching and all we have for mods are slip ons.

My question how can i get my fz6 to preform like the r6 its supposedly so closely related to. Can you take it to a yami dealer and have the "detuned" motor retuned to r6 specs any advice would be helpful Id like more low end torque and gain or maintain my top end power any advice on cheap mods would be welcome as well. Just wanna wheelie easier Thanks fellas

ChevyFazer · Jun 20, 2012

SteelRain said:
IfI wanna pull the front wheel up on my 07 fz6 I have to damn near redline it in first dump the clutch and as I don't like punishing my bike like that I figured I'd look for better solutions. My buddys 02 r6 can pull the front wheel up with minimal clutching and all we have for mods are slip ons.

My question how can i get my fz6 to preform like the r6 its supposedly so closely related to. Can you take it to a yami dealer and have the "detuned" motor retuned to r6 specs any advice would be helpful Id like more low end torque and gain or maintain my top end power any advice on cheap mods would be welcome as well. Just wanna wheelie easier Thanks fellas

If doing wheelies is your main goal the cheapest way to get there would be a 15t counter shaft sprocket. The fz6 will power wheelie quite well in 1st bone stock though. Hold the rpms between 5-6k them go wide open and it will pull the front wheel up very quick.

As far as making it perform close to a r6, well that's a different story. I looked deep into this myself a while back and what came up with was wanting to install r6 cams and a r6 head gasket. It still won't have the same power the r6 does but it would be closer.

Chri5 · Jun 20, 2012

my understanding of the 'detune' (although i maybe wrong) is the ECU, Injectors, cams, and clutch are different its cheaper to buy a used r6 engine (from a lightly crashed r6) and ecu than pay the labour etc on getting all the bits and fitting them

changing your front sprocket is the easiest way to wheelie

sQuijeW · Jun 20, 2012

buy an r6....

Chri5 · Jun 20, 2012

sQuijeW said:
buy an r6....

or that :BLAA:

kennedyted · Jun 20, 2012

not to be a jackker.....but will an r6 motor fit in an fz6 w/o alot of modding, would seem to me mounting points would be dif and the engine becomes part of the frame does it not ?

outasight20 · Jun 20, 2012

Don't forget the FZ6 is also about 50 pounds heavier than the R6. Add that to the ~25 less HP and it becomes clear that the cheapest solution is to just buy an R6. Or just get a Busa and be done with it.

ste · Jun 20, 2012

kennedyted said:
not to be a jackker.....but will an r6 motor fit in an fz6 w/o alot of modding, would seem to me mounting points would be dif and the engine becomes part of the frame does it not ?

no even if you managed to fabricate mounts you would need a new ecu, but if you prepared to spend the money that you get a new r6 for then you could possibly get it to work

SteelRain · Jun 20, 2012

ChevyFazer said:
If doing wheelies is your main goal the cheapest way to get there would be a 15t counter shaft sprocket. The fz6 will power wheelie quite well in 1st bone stock though. Hold the rpms between 5-6k them go wide open and it will pull the front wheel up very quick.

As far as making it perform close to a r6, well that's a different story. I looked deep into this myself a while back and what came up with was wanting to install r6 cams and a r6 head gasket. It still won't have the same power the r6 does but it would be closer.

Thanks Chief appreciate your input I havent been able to power wheelie but I might have been sitting at the wrong rpm you have pretty good control when you go wide at 6 grand?..Did you ever end up doing anything more to your bike after all your diggin and how much does that sprocket run?

Chri5 said:
my understanding of the 'detune' (although i maybe wrong) is the ECU, Injectors, cams, and clutch are different its cheaper to buy a used r6 engine (from a lightly crashed r6) and ecu than pay the labour etc on getting all the bits and fitting them

changing your front sprocket is the easiest way to wheelie

Thanks for the advice too man my only question is changing that sprocket how much top end would i lose I only get up to 135 top speed the way it is i don't wanna lose anymore

kennedyted said:
not to be a jackker.....but will an r6 motor fit in an fz6 w/o alot of modding, would seem to me mounting points would be dif and the engine becomes part of the frame does it not ?

Don't worry about it man i was gonna ask the same question has anyone tried this if so what difference did it make I know buying an r6 would be the best way but obviously if i wanted the r6 i would have gotten it instead of the fz6.

outasight20 said:
Don't forget the FZ6 is also about 50 pounds heavier than the R6. Add that to the ~25 less HP and it becomes clear that the cheapest solution is to just buy an R6. Or just get a Busa and be done with it.

lol It slipped my mind after I logged out and walked away from the computer it occured to me that the fz6 was fifty lbs heavier and I looked like an idjit that leaves me with the question where does she pack all that weight. is it just that they used heavier parts when they manufactured it

last but not least any cheaper performance mods all iv done so far is the the two bros slip on and im brand loyal and they don't have heaaders or mid pipe for the 07?

DownrangeFuture · Jun 20, 2012

Losing top end should matter too much. I mean, we're not on the track right? Or do you routinely cruise at 135? Acceleration is what you're looking for and changing the sprocket will give you that.

As far as the weight, it's just that you save money by building parts out of steel and such, instead of high grade aluminum. It's a cheaper bike.

Performance wise, there isn't a whole lot. This isn't a super sport after all. This is a sport commuter. Think of the FZ6 as a mustang GT and the R6 as a 911. It's for people that want a sport bike, but don't want to sacrifice comfort.

But to say that it's a "de-tuned" R6 would be a misnomer. Even the bore and stroke are different. There are few things that are common to the two engines. Honestly man, if you're wanting to keep up with your buddy and that's the most important thing to you; sell the FZ6 and buy a R6. You'll be happier, and probably spend less money that way.

Of course, if you know what you're doing, the FZ6 comes right up in 1st - 3rd. There are plenty of youtube videos that prove that point.

ChevyFazer · Jun 20, 2012

SteelRain said:
Thanks Chief appreciate your input I havent been able to power wheelie but I might have been sitting at the wrong rpm you have pretty good control when you go wide at 6 grand?..Did you ever end up doing anything more to your bike after all your diggin and how much does that sprocket run?

Thanks for the advice too man my only question is changing that sprocket how much top end would i lose I only get up to 135 top speed the way it is i don't wanna lose anymore

Don't worry about it man i was gonna ask the same question has anyone tried this if so what difference did it make I know buying an r6 would be the best way but obviously if i wanted the r6 i would have gotten it instead of the fz6.

lol It slipped my mind after I logged out and walked away from the computer it occured to me that the fz6 was fifty lbs heavier and I looked like an idjit that leaves me with the question where does she pack all that weight. is it just that they used heavier parts when they manufactured it

last but not least any cheaper performance mods all iv done so far is the the two bros slip on and im brand loyal and they don't have heaaders or mid pipe for the 07?

Yeah it's pretty easy to control, once it starts coming up you have to back off just a bit to keep it up with out going over, but if you back off too much it will drop. But as far as my bike goes I've gutted my cat, made my own exhaust, air box mod and played with the CO adjustment. Nothin too drastic but I'm moving a lot of air, the cam and head gasket will come at a later date and when they do I will have a pc3 put on and it dyno tuned the right way.

outasight20 · Jun 20, 2012

SteelRain said:
lol It slipped my mind after I logged out and walked away from the computer it occured to me that the fz6 was fifty lbs heavier and I looked like an idjit that leaves me with the question where does she pack all that weight. is it just that they used heavier parts when they manufactured it

Yeah, it's a cheaper bike as DownrangeFuture said, so they saved money by making some of the components heavier. In general, less weight means more money.

I had a 15T sprocket on my bike for a while and loved the low end power, but I got sick of the 12% speedo error and high rpm's on the highway. It was very easy to power wheelie in 1st gear with that sprocket though.

Ended up changing to a 17T sprocket as I do a lot of highway riding. Now my speedo is within 1% at all speeds and my rpm's on the highway are down significantly. That combined with my custom 22 ounce bar ends makes the bike smooth as butter cruising down the interstate. Only downside is now it is a lot harder to power wheelie, but it can still be done. I try to keep my squidliness down anyway. I can't afford another ticket, or worse, an accident.

SteelRain · Jun 20, 2012

outasight20 said:
I had a 15T sprocket on my bike for a while and loved the low end power, but I got sick of the 12% speedo error and high rpm's on the highway. It was very easy to power wheelie in 1st gear with that sprocket though.

How much did those sprockets cost and cant you do something with the speedo to dial in the accuracy?

ChevyFazer said:
Yeah it's pretty easy to control, once it starts coming up you have to back off just a bit to keep it up with out going over, but if you back off too much it will drop. But as far as my bike goes I've gutted my cat, made my own exhaust, air box mod and played with the CO adjustment. Nothin too drastic but I'm moving a lot of air, the cam and head gasket will come at a later date and when they do I will have a pc3 put on and it dyno tuned the right way

Ok bear with me here i got some questions. After you got her stood up you can shift right Ive been practicing a little with a dirt bike I'm just a little nervouse about upgrading to a much heavier bike.

Whats this airbox mod I keep seeing all over the forum

Does gutting the cat give you more torque/better sound I was toying with the idea of doing that myself or eliminating it altogether but I was afraid of losing back pressure. Lastly what size pipes are your running for your headers and midpipe what differences have you noticed. I don't wanna do to much and have the bike running lean tho.

DownrangeFuture said:
Losing top end should matter too much. I mean, we're not on the track right? Or do you routinely cruise at 135? Acceleration is what you're looking for and changing the sprocket will give you that.

As far as the weight, it's just that you save money by building parts out of steel and such, instead of high grade aluminum. It's a cheaper bike

Good point lol Believe it or not my bike actually hangs in there with my buds r6 and I figured it was from trying to make a cheaper bike just wasnt sure. I've done some research I'm so used to my fz6 its the only streetbike ive ridden that when i sat on my friends gixxer750 and went to stand it up of the kick stand I damn near threw her onto the other side lol.

Thanks for the pointers everyone!!!!

ChevyFazer · Jun 20, 2012

SteelRain said:
How much did those sprockets cost and cant you do something with the speedo to dial in the accuracy?

Ok bear with me here i got some questions. After you got her stood up you can shift right Ive been practicing a little with a dirt bike I'm just a little nervouse about upgrading to a much heavier bike.

Whats this airbox mod I keep seeing all over the forum

Does gutting the cat give you more torque/better sound I was toying with the idea of doing that myself or eliminating it altogether but I was afraid of losing back pressure. Lastly what size pipes are your running for your headers and midpipe what differences have you noticed. I don't wanna do to much and have the bike running lean tho.

Good point lol Believe it or not my bike actually hangs in there with my buds r6 and I figured it was from trying to make a cheaper bike just wasnt sure. I've done some research I'm so used to my fz6 its the only streetbike ive ridden that when i sat on my friends gixxer750 and went to stand it up of the kick stand I damn near threw her onto the other side lol.

Thanks for the pointers everyone!!!!

I've never tried to shift while doing a wheelie but I imagine it wouldnt be too hard.

The air box mod is basically opening up the hole where the airbox inlet is. It makes it a little easier for the engine to breath and frees up some top end power while giving it a more throatier sound. And gutting the cat does kind of the same thing, not a very big gain but it all adds up. As for my exhaust it's all stock pipe until the muffler then I have 2 2 3/4 pipes for my outlets. Heres a link to it http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/40828-machine-gun-exhaust.html
With all of the things I've done to my bike I lost some tq but it will really scream above 7k.

SteelRain · Jun 20, 2012

ChevyFazer said:
I've never tried to shift while doing a wheelie but I imagine it wouldnt be too hard.

The air box mod is basically opening up the hole where the airbox inlet is. It makes it a little easier for the engine to breath and frees up some top end power while giving it a more throatier sound. And gutting the cat does kind of the same thing, not a very big gain but it all adds up. As for my exhaust it's all stock pipe until the muffler then I have 2 2 3/4 pipes for my outlets. Heres a link to it http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/40828-machine-gun-exhaust.html
With all of the things I've done to my bike I lost some tq but it will really scream above 7k.

Dude......read through the thread looked at the pictures went to youtube found the vid.....Love it. You did good work man you painted her matte like you were planning yet? I love the sound of it is definately unique. Probbably gonna get the kn filter and do the box mod sometime in the next week or so just need to get paid first maybe gut the cat this summer maybe not. You think I would need to consider rejetting or anything after the slip ons, airbox mod and aftermarket filter. It might be running a little lean with all that air i would think? Idk either way thanks a million bro I'm headed to fort benning for some training going active after four years and a tour in iraq in the guards if i get stationed down there I'll have to see that beast in person lol thanks again bro

ChevyFazer · Jun 20, 2012

Thanks a lot man always nice to hear!!! and no I left it polished, but I've been thinking about painting it here lately. As for the sound it sounds quite different now I've actually had it apart twice since then reworking it to try and "tune" it for a deeper sound with out that high pitch scream. It's still loud as hell just deeper. And yes it would be running real lean if I hadnt messed with the fueling, but on our bikes there is a setting preloaded into the ecu called the CO adjustment where you can richen or lean the mixture a little, in no way is it as good as a power commander and a good dyno session but I've got it running fairly good by playing with the CO adjustment. I've put about 10,000 miles on like this with. O issues so I'm finding it hard to justify spending $600 on a pcIII and a dyno tune when all seems good lol.

And by the way good luck during training and thank you for your service!!!

SteelRain · Jun 20, 2012

ChevyFazer said:
Thanks a lot man always nice to hear!!! and no I left it polished, but I've been thinking about painting it here lately. As for the sound it sounds quite different now I've actually had it apart twice since then reworking it to try and "tune" it for a deeper sound with out that high pitch scream. It's still loud as hell just deeper. And yes it would be running real lean if I hadnt messed with the fueling, but on our bikes there is a setting preloaded into the ecu called the CO adjustment where you can richen or lean the mixture a little, in no way is it as good as a power commander and a good dyno session but I've got it running fairly good by playing with the CO adjustment. I've put about 10,000 miles on like this with. O issues so I'm finding it hard to justify spending $600 on a pcIII and a dyno tune when all seems good lol.

And by the way good luck during training and thank you for your service!!!

Yeah definately am in love with the sound I get from my two bros system although I kinda liked your higher pitched sound I'd love to hear the updated decibles tho haha. You think itd be a waste to get it rejetted after i cut out the airbox and get the filter in there cause I don't know the first thing about fuel mapping nor do I have a juice box that would let me get into the ecu and switch mess with the CO adjustment like your talkin about.

and now problem I loved iraq first time around figured I'd give reg army a shot and see how I feel about it

ChevyFazer · Jun 20, 2012

It's always worth it to have the right fuel going in for the amount of air it's moving, and "rejetting" is for carbed bikes vs the fz6 being fuel injected but same idea. The CO adjustment is actually built into the bike so it's free all you have to do is ground out a wire in the main wiring harness so nothing is needed but your time and some effort.

Here's some links to some threads about it
http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/30125-enable-co-adjustment-usa-only-lean-richen.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/4809-dyno-tune-co-adjustment-leo-vince-18.html

FinalImpact · Jun 20, 2012

I've come to the conclusion that learning to clutch it is a nescessity for gear changing as the 1 ~ 2 split drops Rev's about 46%. Seeings how we need it at max torque you better be ready to take it to the point of/edge of no-return bang 2nd and then slip a bit to hold on. . . . I've done some surprisingly long 1st gear wheelies w/out clutchin it but drop it on the 1 ->2 as it simply runs out of tq.

If I were after more power; CPU unleashed would likely be my first stop. You need control of the ignition timing too, so give it some thought. But between this and exhaust you're out 12k and still no cams so the question is, is it worth it? PS I know you can drop the cams in and they "will bolt in" but do the valves have the proper springs for the new rates? And have you gained anything if you don't have the headers and ECM to use the new power band?

FinalImpact · Jun 20, 2012

ChevyFazer said:
It's always worth it to have the right fuel going in for the amount of air it's moving, and "rejetting" is for carbed bikes vs the fz6 being fuel injected but same idea. The CO adjustment is actually built into the bike so it's free all you have to do is ground out a wire in the main wiring harness so nothing is needed but your time and some effort.

Here's some links to some threads about it
http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/30125-enable-co-adjustment-usa-only-lean-richen.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/4809-dyno-tune-co-adjustment-leo-vince-18.html

Been wondering where you found that!!! :thumbup:

Fz6 r6?

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