Hid installed need help

Just installed my HID from DDM Tunning looks amazing will post a pic soon i have the SV2 front end so just the 1 H4 bulb. Problem is the H4 bulb i had the High and Low beam functioned properly but now with the HID in the high beam doesnt work. Any ideas??????

Did you install a high/low harness with relay?

That HID change lo to hi beam is by changing the position of the lamp. Make sure the lamp is not bound from moving.

its the H4 kit from DDMtuning ill post a link in a sec

HID Kits, BMW Aftermarket Bumpers & Lighting, DEPO - DDM Tuning


i did the 55w, 8000k

Motogiro said:

Did you install a high/low harness with relay?

That HID change lo to hi beam is by changing the position of the lamp. Make sure the lamp is not bound from moving.

Click to expand...

i did press on the platform the holds the ligh and it freely went up and down

Do you have the headlamp circuit modded for low beam shutoff when the high beam is active or does the low beam remain on when the high beam is on?

im not sure i do know with the H4 the low beam hit the ground and spread the light and the high beam centered the light high and narrowed the beam. so im guessing yes the low cuts off. what should i look for wiring wise

Cameronhall said:

im not sure i do know with the H4 the low beam hit the ground and spread the light and the high beam centered the light high and narrowed the beam. so im guessing yes the low cuts off. what should i look for wiring wise

Click to expand...

If you've wire it per instructions it should work. Could be many things. Wish I could be there to help...

Double check wiring....?

will do, ill post after check

tested factory plug. low beam on, low beam wire shows 12, High beam wire shows 0, common 0-. high beam on, low still has 12, high has 12, common 0-


so the low bean does not cut off when high is on. what does that mean????
all other wiring is 100%

Cameronhall said:

tested factory plug. low beam on, low beam wire shows 12, High beam wire shows 0, common 0-. high beam on, low still has 12, high has 12, common 0-


so the low bean does not cut off when high is on. what does that mean????
all other wiring is 100%

Click to expand...

I'm not sure but there may be logic on the controller that does not allow the solenoid operation until the low beam is off. This might be the problem. Does the unit get power from the low beam or does it wire to the battery for it's power?

Normal H4 switching shuts off the low beam when the high beam is active so there is a possibility that if this HID kit uses only the headlamp wiring for power source that the there is a logic problem because the lo beam is staying powered.

https://www.ddmtuning.com/support/index.php?_m=downloads&_a=viewdownload&downloaditemid=11&nav=0,1

here is the installation guide. If you look through it, there is a black two pin connector with a black and red wire that is for the high-low switch. When I connected the two together, the black pin pushed itself out of the male connector. I'm going to check that next. And by the way it is freaking bright as SHIP!!!! Thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it, will update soon.

I have the same vs2 kit. Did you order the hi/low kit or just the low kit?

The problem with 8000k is, even though there is much greater light volume, you've essentially lost some of the perception of light due to it being in the warmer spectrum.

If you can, chuck some 6000k bulbs in and see the difference!

I've got 55w 6000k in both my cars, and the light output is simply amazing.

I'll be sticking HIDs in my bike first chance I get!

Cheers,
Rick

I've looked at the installation guide and I believe you may have a logic problem in the controller. Power for the HID assembly is derived directly from the battery.
This means that the unit is most probably using the original low and high beam voltages for the controller. I would cut the black with yellow tracer (low beam) wire and make a jumper. Start the bike with the jumper attached so there is voltage as there is now.

Turn on the high beam and remove the low beam jumper. If you now have the high beam you need to resolve your low beam switching to turn off when there is a high beam. This is the normal switching for any dual filament H4 lamps to prevent overheating during high beam operation. The FZ6 faired version did not use this type switch because of the left and right bulb set up so if you went naked and ran a single or dual H4 you should do the headlamp mod to have proper switching.

Test your unit to see if eliminating the low beam signal during high beam lets the HID switch properly and if it does get back to me.

wlay00 said:

I have the same vs2 kit. Did you order the hi/low kit or just the low kit?

Click to expand...

the HI/LOW ive installed the same kit on 3 occasions no problems.

i called tech support this morning. the first question at hand was the black and red wires that connect in a 2 pin harness (which is used to pull and retrack the bulb). Q: Is the red wire hot when the high beam switch is on? A: YES 12.3 volts. He said the bulbs magnetic mechinism must not be functioning properly and the bulb is bad. free return policy under warranty. great!!!! but how long is that going to take? A: A while..........:banghead:

after futher testing, my ? is the red wire is hot when the high beam switch is on, but when i switch to low the red wire still shows hot!

im going to try your jumper idea now and see what happens

mave2911 said:

The problem with 8000k is, even though there is much greater light volume, you've essentially lost some of the perception of light due to it being in the warmer spectrum.

If you can, chuck some 6000k bulbs in and see the difference!

I've got 55w 6000k in both my cars, and the light output is simply amazing.

I'll be sticking HIDs in my bike first chance I get!

Cheers,
Rick

Click to expand...

agreeded... the website said the Kelvin rating was a step down. so that the 8000k should be closer to the 6000k, and the 6000k would be closer to the 4000k so thats why i went with the 8000k.

Cameronhall said:

i called tech support this morning. the first question at hand was the black and red wires that connect in a 2 pin harness (which is used to pull and retrack the bulb). Q: Is the red wire hot when the high beam switch is on? A: YES 12.3 volts. He said the bulbs magnetic mechinism must not be functioning properly and the bulb is bad. free return policy under warranty. great!!!! but how long is that going to take? A: A while..........:banghead:

after futher testing, my ? is the red wire is hot when the high beam switch is on, but when i switch to low the red wire still shows hot!

im going to try your jumper idea now and see what happens

Click to expand...

According to tech support the magnetic mechanism (called a solenoid) is not functioning. Disconnect the solenoid wire (red) and see if the lamp changes position...If there is 12 volts present on the control wire (red) and you unplug it. There should be a change in the lamp position.

Yes try the first test I told you about. If the plug they give you uses both hi and lo signals from your 3 wire headlight then they must be using the low beam as a logic control because they are not using it to power the unit.

The logic circuit may need the low beam signal to fall to zero....

IT WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



i did the jumper as motogiro said and noticed that the low beam had no volts when the switch was set to low beam, testing the high beam wire it had 12 volt!!!! WTF

so i put another jumper on the high beam wire swapped them and BAM it works!!!!!


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MOTOGIRO
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