Should I use Yamalube?

I'm just about to do my very first service on my recently purchased bike. Got 19k miles on the clock. Iv purchased a carb sync thingy and just about to order the filters and oil etc... Filter i'v read on here is best with the nut on the end for ease of removal. Are there any advantages of buying Yamalube and paying the price or is just a good quality oil just as good. Like my chainsaws people swear by Stihl chain oil but I use Oregon and cannot see any difference apart from the change in my pocket. Thanks for your help....

I think everyone will agree as long as the oil is made for motorcycles you're going to be fine.

Ideally it would be really nice to know what's in your bike now. If it's currently running synthetic, I wouldn't want to switch back to dino oil.
If you don't know what's in there, I would go with any quality synthetic oil (proper weight) which has JASO MA designation (means it's safe for wet clutch)

Alos make sure you get the right weight of oil for the temperature you'll be seeing. Again, synthetics have a wider range. I use regular dino oil I have used Yamalube and Castrol motorcycle specific and saw no differences.

This will be the first service I have done on the bike so I don't know what's in it. I have since posting this checked the air filter and it's brand new so the dealer I purchased it from has at least done a service before I had it. But I'm still going to do the oil so I know where I'm at with it. You don't know if your paying for the brand or if there is a real benifit.

Without starting an oil thread, IMHO, besides the K&N filter you mentioned, I'd go with at least a semi synthetic oil (I like Motul), it provides a little more protection than dino, 7100, full synthetic even more but more expensive.. The 5100 Motul (semi synthetic) is likely just a little more $ than the regular dino Yamaha oil.

At the very least, motorcycle SPECIFIC oil (as mentioned above).

DO NOT USE ENERGY CONSERVING OIL....

I have just done my first service on my recently purchased Fizzer - the original owner used dino oil (Shell Advance SX) and the 'box was clunky as heck.

I put Motul 7100 fully synthetic into it, and a couple of hundred kms later the 'box is smooth.

Each to his own, but oil in a motorcycle has a much harder life than that in a car (gearbox stresses etc) so I'd recommend the best oil your budget will allow. (a couple of dollars saved now could significantly reduce the time you can spend with her)

Cheers,
Rick

P.S. As for the filter, whilst the K&N KN-303 isn't the best, it does have the nut for easy removal. I use the Purolator PureONE PL14610 car filter - it's a bit longer and has much, much better small particle filtration, and about 30% more filter media - and costs $6 in the States! (I had to import them from the States to Australia via Amazon.com.....) Fits perfectly, the extra length doesn't get in the way and it should last 1/3 longer!

Be sure to use the aluminum foil oil catcher trick!!!!

Make a lil Al foil boat? dam? catcher? slide? (don't know what to call it) and put it above your header to keep oil from pouring onto it when you loosen the drain plug.


http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/42289-oil-change-fz6.html


Its described better there ^

TownsendsFJR1300 said:

Without starting an oil thread, IMHO, besides the K&N filter you mentioned, I'd go with at least a semi synthetic oil (I like Motul), it provides a little more protection than dino, 7100, full synthetic even more but more expensive.. The 5100 Motul (semi synthetic) is likely just a little more $ than the regular dino Yamaha oil.

At the very least, motorcycle SPECIFIC oil (as mentioned above).

DO NOT USE ENERGY CONSERVING OIL....

Click to expand...

BTW, I sent an e-mail (my original e-mail is below their response) to Motul re 300V (racing full synthetic oil) and 7100. Their response:

_________________________________________________________________

Dear Scott,

We recommand you 7100 because you can go longer miles with this product. That's what it was designed for.
We agree with you that 300V is the top product of Motul, but it is dedicated to racing. That means that the product has to be changed frequently because it's a racing application product.

Staying at your disposal,

The Motul USA staff


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [email protected] [[email protected]]
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2012 4:01 AM
To: MOTULUSA
Subject: Oil question


I'm currently using Motul 5100 in my 2007 Yamaha FZ6 (US version, non Ca model). I also have a K&P (not a K&N) filter (aluminum body/ combo oil cooler, cleanable SS filter)

I'm looking to upgrade on the next oil change to either 7100 or 300v (10w40).

Obviously the 300v is a better oil, is/can the oil change interval be extended with the 300v? (The bike is NOT taken to the race track, ridden normal with occasional high speed runs.. )


Thanks ahead of time,

Scott

I'm going to try a semi synthetic. My gear box tends to be a bit clonky so that may help it impove. I'll see how it goes. Dont mind paying the price for oil as long as your not paying for just the name. Free's up more cash for more miles :thumbup:

Stevieb038 said:

I'm going to try a semi synthetic.

Click to expand...

The Motul 7100 is full synthetic ester oil.

Now that I have seen the difference in my gearbox, I wont EVER be trying semi-synthetic or dino oil again.

Semi-synthetic is hamstrung by dino oil. If you're gonna do it, do it right, not just half-way, in my opinion.

Each to his own, but the Motul 7100 has transformed my bike, and with the larger filter I use (Purolator PureOne PL14610), I should be able to extend my oil change intervals a bit.

My thoughts anyway.

Cheers,
Rick

i tired a bunch of oils , yama lube , semi synthetic motul ,
but this is the best stuff , and it will last 10,000 KM ,
dont cheap out on oil , the high revving engines need a decent oil ,
it will also make the bike run cooler and you will see performance .
its 14 bux a bottle at wallmart , yama lube cost me more for non synthetic
Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40

Motul 5100 for me.

Very happy with it, and we change oil every 5000 kms at the most.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I change my oil every 2,000 miles because I ride spirited and it's only $20 and 15 minutes of my time. An ounce of prevention.

I've used both Yamalube and Valvoline motorcycle oil. Both cost the same but for Yamalube I have to drive 30 minutes out of my way versus 5 minutes for the Valvoline motorcycle oil.

I can't tell the difference to be honest, the bike shifts like butter with both oils.

I also use a PureOne car oil filter.

Clovis said:

I change my oil every 2,000 miles because I ride spirited and it's only $20 and 15 minutes of my time. An ounce of prevention.

Click to expand...

Half your luck - Motul 7100 is $96/4L here!

I'm going to see how it feels at 5000kms (3107mi), but I'm hoping to get 7500kms (4660mi) before changing it.

We'll see, but as most of my riding is not spirited, but rather commuting, I'm hoping the extra wont upset the bike too much!

We'll see!

Cheers,
Rick

And just like that it turns into another oil thread

I wish we could just put this baby to bed:

1. Run a full synthetic oil

The oils with the best overall value are as follows (price/performance)
A. Shell Rotella 5w-40 T6 (blue jug, full synthetic, JASO-MA certification, $22 per gal at either Wally World or Menards)

B. Mobil1 10w-40 Racing 4T (full synthetic, JASO-MA certification, $9.99 per qt at most auto parts stores)

There. Done. Conversation over

It seems like everything in Australia is expensive! I've seen the Austrialian tyre threads and OMFG! Here in the states a set of Pilot Road 3s is under $300 US Dollars.

mave2911 said:

Half your luck - Motul 7100 is $96/4L here!

I'm going to see how it feels at 5000kms (3107mi), but I'm hoping to get 7500kms (4660mi) before changing it.

We'll see, but as most of my riding is not spirited, but rather commuting, I'm hoping the extra wont upset the bike too much!

We'll see!

Cheers,
Rick

Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with Yamalube.

Clovis said:

It seems like everything in Australia is expensive! I've seen the Austrialian tyre threads and OMFG! Here in the states a set of Pilot Road 3s is under $300 US Dollars.

Click to expand...

It's all relative, wages are higher over there too.