How to prepare and paint plastic

zg fazer600 · Oct 20, 2011

I finally started working on my part - front upper body - I'll call it nose because it's easier to write.

So,
1) I took sand paper 400 and went through nose

2) I took sand paper 600 and went through nose

3) I took sand paper 1000 and went through nose

After these three steps, my nose was smooth but without shine.

4) I took polishing kit and polished nose with sponge extension.
5) After that I took another extension - for smoother polishing and polished nose once again.

I saw somewhere, is recomended to use sand paper dipped in water, but that was unpractical for me. In stead of that I took wet mop and cleaned after a while... This way it was easier to figure out missed spots.

Here are before and after pictures:

zg fazer600 · Oct 20, 2011

Re: How to prepare and pain plastic

And after pictures:

zg fazer600 · Oct 20, 2011

Re: How to prepare and pain plastic

After polishing the nose is shining, after sand paper it was "just" smooth...

Nelly · Oct 20, 2011

Re: How to prepare and pain plastic

Good work,
Are youkeeping it white?

zg fazer600 · Oct 20, 2011

No it will be blue, because my fz6 is from 2005y. I'll put photos after the plastic primer and paint job. I believe it will be done at the end of the week.

Nelly · Oct 20, 2011

So the white colour is the base coulour of the plastic?

Nelly

zg fazer600 · Oct 20, 2011

Yes, the white is base colour. I bought the part with base colour on it... But the treatment wasn't very good, the surface was rough. But and if the base colour wasn't on it I would do the same treatment.

zg fazer600 · Oct 21, 2011

One more thing, I spent 4 hours on sanding and polishin together...

Driftboat · Oct 21, 2011

I started doddling around with repairing Cowlings , bought fiberglass all to the way to a paint gun , then my father fell ill and i got out of it , going to start up again this winter for a hobby.

zg fazer600 · Oct 21, 2011

Driftboat said:
I started doddling around with repairing Cowlings , bought fiberglass all to the way to a paint gun , then my father fell ill and i got out of it , going to start up again this winter for a hobby.

Good luck! :thumbup:

zg fazer600 · Oct 23, 2011

Oh fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck.

Here is one advice - do not polish plastic before plastic primer, hahahaha.
I polished plastic so much that I was overpleased how smooth everything is and how I can see my reflection when watching...but that maybe wasn't so good idea.

When I started spraying plastic primer he just slipped off.

Well, now everything from the start with important new lesson - polishing after plastic primer and colour...

News comes after the new old first stage - sanding...
:rockon:

ChadK_FZ6 · Oct 23, 2011

hmm I think i might have to paint my bike white

Wish I had the newer black frame and wheels but the white and silver would work too.:thumbup:

zg fazer600 · Oct 23, 2011

ChadK_FZ6 said:
hmm I think i might have to paint my bike white

Wish I had the newer black frame and wheels but the white and silver would work too.:thumbup:

Good luck with the job. Upload the pictures so we can admire your work.

SweaterDude · Oct 24, 2011

the key with painting anything is "scoring" or "keying" whatever you wish to paint. before primer use a mildly smooth 600-800 grit paper, then after first primer, 800-1000 the piss out of it to make smooth, then second primer or first top coat, then 1200-1600 to make really nice then final coat(s), give it a polish and wax and you can eat off it. wetting the paper will make it smoother but i would only wet 800 grit and higher it will also make the paper last slightly longer. *dont get it too we though*:spank:. i sanded and primered my whole car this way before painting it. i primered with cans and finished with a gun and it looks great. no pics cuz i sold the car sorry

zg fazer600 · Oct 25, 2011

SweaterDude said:
the key with painting anything is "scoring" or "keying" whatever you wish to paint. before primer use a mildly smooth 600-800 grit paper, then after first primer, 800-1000 the piss out of it to make smooth, then second primer or first top coat, then 1200-1600 to make really nice then final coat(s), give it a polish and wax and you can eat off it. wetting the paper will make it smoother but i would only wet 800 grit and higher it will also make the paper last slightly longer. *dont get it too we though*:spank:. i sanded and primered my whole car this way before painting it. i primered with cans and finished with a gun and it looks great. no pics cuz i sold the car sorry

Thank you for advices although now is a bit late for anything new...
I tried sanding after plastic primer bat didn't go well. After plastic primer surface was like from silicone masks from cell phone - smooth but stucking when you go over it with your finger. And I had a feeling that I'm peeling of the primer with sand paper so I gave up from that step.

zg fazer600 · Oct 25, 2011

And the last step....
Yesterday I finished the last phase - plastic primer with two coats of colour.
Considering that I took acril colour shy was high, and the nose looked very good.
But this morning I wanted extra shy so I started polishing.
Result of that was removing the paint.

I thought that it might have something to do with the extension for polishing, so I took extension for very fine polishing. With that extension I didn't remove the colour, only shy....

So afterall, I gave up from polishing at the end totaly, and after a sanding of damaged parts placed one more coat of colour.

I'm not unsatisfied how it looks now, but on some parts you can see the diference between factory parts and this one...
Here are the pictures before last coat.

tejkowskit · Oct 25, 2011

Looks nice! What brand paint did you use?

FinalImpact · Oct 25, 2011

Hey, I thought I'd add the following and most important is Step One! Beyond that you found out what happens when a smooth glossy surface is painted. Sorry. . .

1) Wipe with Prepsol to remove, silicone, grease, oils, finger print oils.
Why; because sanding them smears and embeds the oils in the surrounding finish which later makes defects, blisters, lifting, bubbles. Hint: lacquer thinner can be used but it can eat plastic, dissolve like paints -> lacquer

2) sand paper 320
3) sand paper 400
4) Wipe with Prepsol degreaser, wipe with tach cloth
5) Primer
6) Block sand 600
7) Fill coat as needed if you went through primer. Repeat Block sand 600. Cure as needed.
8) Wipe with Prepsol degreaser, wipe with tach cloth
9) Apply Base coat/Top coat according to manf instructions
10) Cure new finish (wait)

11) Wet sand, starting with 800 grit (use only wet/dry paper and mild soap)
12) Wet sand, 1000
13) Wet sand, 1200 / 1800 / 2000 if you want a mirror
14) Polish with cutting compound / clean all residue
15) Polish with Swirl and haze remover / clean all residue
16) Apply sealer as recommended by paint manf.
17) Apply wax after paint is cured fully as it will out-gas solvents for months some times and you don't always want to seal them in.

18) Admire mirror finish! :thumbup:

There is allot to it, this is just a guide to make you think!

zg fazer600 · Oct 25, 2011

tejkowskit said:
Looks nice! What brand paint did you use?

I'm not sure because I asked men from colourshop to make me the same colour I have on my fazer. I found the colour code on web....

zg fazer600 · Oct 25, 2011

FinalImpact said:
Hey, I thought I'd add the following and most important is Step One! Beyond that you found out what happens when a smooth glossy surface is painted. Sorry. . .

1) Wipe with Prepsol to remove, silicone, grease, oils, finger print oils.
Why; because sanding them smears and embeds the oils in the surrounding finish which later makes defects, blisters, lifting, bubbles. Hint: lacquer thinner can be used but it can eat plastic, dissolve like paints -> lacquer

2) sand paper 320
3) sand paper 400
4) Wipe with Prepsol degreaser, wipe with tach cloth
5) Primer
6) Block sand 600
7) Fill coat as needed if you went through primer. Repeat Block sand 600. Cure as needed.
8) Wipe with Prepsol degreaser, wipe with tach cloth
9) Apply Base coat/Top coat according to manf instructions
10) Cure new finish (wait)

11) Wet sand, starting with 800 grit (use only wet/dry paper and mild soap)
12) Wet sand, 1000
13) Wet sand, 1200 / 1800 / 2000 if you want a mirror
14) Polish with cutting compound / clean all residue
15) Polish with Swirl and haze remover / clean all residue
16) Apply sealer as recommended by paint manf.
17) Apply wax after paint is cured fully as it will out-gas solvents for months some times and you don't always want to seal them in.

18) Admire mirror finish! :thumbup:

There is allot to it, this is just a guide to make you think!

Aaaaa, where were you a week ago????

I believe I had a bit short process... I should do more sanding, cleaning...
But, now I learned the lesson for the next time...

How to prepare and paint plastic

Junior Member

Junior Member

Junior Member

International Liaison

Junior Member

International Liaison

Junior Member

Junior Member

Junior Member

Junior Member

Junior Member

Junior Member

Junior Member

Broke-zillionaire

Junior Member

Junior Member

Gold Member

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone

Junior Member

Junior Member

Similar threads