How NOT to install frame sliders

Tailgate

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Picked up T-Rex sliders on ebay. They looked good since they had the metal inserts and Delron (yeah, I know there are better). Before installing them, I checked the torque of stock engine bolts---I was surprised that they were only about 30 foot/pounds. I carefully torqued them to 40 lbs (per service manual specs) just to get how they should feel at 40lbs and to make a preliminary check . Then, I backed the left side engine mount bolt out, installed the correct left-side (shorter) T-Rex slider and proceeded to tighten the bolt. At less than 20 ft/lbs torque I heard a "pop". Next thing I knew, tightening the bolt became wierd. It was futile; the bolt now would not torque further. I KNEW the sick feeling: trying to tighten a bolt/screw into threads that have been stripped. I removed the slider and bolt. There were about 3 threads wrapped perfectly around the slider bolt. The softer FZ6 aluminum threads gave way. Why did this happen? The frame slider bolt, when coupled with the slider itself, could not penetrate into the FZ6 threaded hole as deep as the Yamaha engineers designed it to be. The result was me trying to torque down a frame slider bolt that could only "bite" partway into the threaded engine mount assembly. With less engine mount threads to bite into,the demand was too much. Fantastic! I now have to helecoil or oversize tap thread the engine mount. Advice: don't use frame sliders with bolts that don't screw in as much as the stock bolts.
 
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Nelly

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Picked up T-Rex sliders on ebay. They looked good since they had the metal inserts and Delron (yeah, I know there are better). Before installing them, I checked the torque of stock engine bolts---I was surprised that they were only about 30 foot/pounds. I carefully torqued them to 40 lbs (per service manual specs) just to get how they should feel at 40lbs and to make a preliminary check . Then, I backed the left side engine mount bolt out, installed the correct left-side (shorter) T-Rex slider and proceeded to tighten the bolt. At less than 20 ft/lbs torque I heard a "pop". Next thing I knew, tightening the bolt became wierd. It was futile; the bolt now would not torque further. I KNEW the sick feeling: trying to tighten a bolt/screw into threads that have been stripped. I removed the slider and bolt. There were about 3 threads wrapped perfectly around the slider bolt. The softer FZ6 aluminum threads gave way. Why did this happen? The frame slider bolt, when coupled with the slider itself, could not penetrate into the FZ6 threaded hole as deep as the Yamaha engineers designed it to. The result was me trying to torque down a frame slider bolt that could only "bite" partway into the threaded engine mount assembly. With less engine mount threads to bite into,the demand was too much. Fantastic! I now have to helecoil or oversize tap thread the engine mount. Advice: don't use frame sliders with bolts that don't screw in as much as the stock bolts.
I am sorry to hear that mate,
A few guys have had to purchase longer engine mount bolts when installing sliders.
It stinks
 

reiobard

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sorry to here bud, but good to know that the bolt length will play a part in the torque spec actually working.

Good luck with the repair..
 

Hellgate

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Picked up T-Rex sliders on ebay. They looked good since they had the metal inserts and Delron (yeah, I know there are better). Before installing them, I checked the torque of stock engine bolts---I was surprised that they were only about 30 foot/pounds. I carefully torqued them to 40 lbs (per service manual specs) just to get how they should feel at 40lbs and to make a preliminary check . Then, I backed the left side engine mount bolt out, installed the correct left-side (shorter) T-Rex slider and proceeded to tighten the bolt. At less than 20 ft/lbs torque I heard a "pop". Next thing I knew, tightening the bolt became wierd. It was futile; the bolt now would not torque further. I KNEW the sick feeling: trying to tighten a bolt/screw into threads that have been stripped. I removed the slider and bolt. There were about 3 threads wrapped perfectly around the slider bolt. The softer FZ6 aluminum threads gave way. Why did this happen? The frame slider bolt, when coupled with the slider itself, could not penetrate into the FZ6 threaded hole as deep as the Yamaha engineers designed it to be. The result was me trying to torque down a frame slider bolt that could only "bite" partway into the threaded engine mount assembly. With less engine mount threads to bite into,the demand was too much. Fantastic! I now have to helecoil or oversize tap thread the engine mount. Advice: don't use frame sliders with bolts that don't screw in as much as the stock bolts.

Ouch! there is a thread out here on Heli-coils and timecerts. Your dealer should be able to help you out.
 

driver145

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Maybe that was why mine was loose in the first place... its a long story but I more or less did the same thing. Anyhow, it was on the left side and I just had my local shop machine a bolt and put it through with a nut on the other side.
 

Tailgate

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Maybe that was why mine was loose in the first place... its a long story but I more or less did the same thing. Anyhow, it was on the left side and I just had my local shop machine a bolt and put it through with a nut on the other side.
Yeah, that's an option. I'm first, though, going to hardware today to find longer hex head metric thread bolts (I need one for the other good side anyway), There might be enough good thread at the end of the hole to help the bolt "bite." If not, I'll tap it. If that doesn't work, I'll helicoil or do the bolt and nut like you did. Geesh, T-Rex has mucho frame slider sales and fantastic feedback although I only saw, I think, one from a FZ6 customer. I wonder if T-Rex only messed up with my order or with my model, the FZ6? (or maybe there's a change between the '06 and '07???). Geesh, it never ceases to amaze me how trying to do just one "simple" thing turns into a "project."
 
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Nelly

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Yeah, that's an option. I'm first, though, going to hardware today to find longer hex head metric thread bolts (I need one for the other good side anyway), There might be enough good thread at the end of the hole to help the bolt "bite." If not, I'll tap it. If that doesn't work, I'll helicoil or do the bolt and nut like you did. Geesh, T-Rex has mucho frame slider sales and fantastic feedback although I only saw, I think, one from a FZ6 customer. I wonder if T-Rex only messed up with my order or with my model, the FZ6? (or maybe there's a change between the '06 and '07???). Geesh, it never ceases to amaze me how trying to do just one "simple" thing turns into a "project."
Have you spoken to them about the ****up?
 
W

wrightme43

Were there two different length bolts? Was there a call out for two different length bolts?
 

Tailgate

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nimzotech

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Maybe that was why mine was loose in the first place... its a long story but I more or less did the same thing. Anyhow, it was on the left side and I just had my local shop machine a bolt and put it through with a nut on the other side.

Tailgate did you consider this excellent alternative?
 

Tailgate

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Were there two different length bolts? Was there a call out for two different length bolts?
Both bolts, which were already placed inside the sliders, both have threads that extend out the same exact distance. The website eBay Motors: T-Rex 04-08 Yamaha FZ6 Fazer Frame Sliders NO CUT (item 140219996470 end time Apr-05-08 12:53:03 PDT)) also displays in the ebay photo the two bolts along side each other--both identical. (I will re-look at them after I home get from work. (I want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row before I send off a complaint). I also diligently followed the one page of model specific directions that came with the sliders. see from the website page
 
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W

wrightme43

Not knocking you man. I promise. They may of shipped two of the same length bolts, or shipped the wrong length, or thier suppliers may of mislabled, or any number of things could of happened.

Its not how people handle things when they go right, its how they handle what goes wrong.
 

Nelly

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Both bolts, which were already placed inside the sliders, both have threads that extend out the same exact distance. I will re-look at them after I home get from work. (I want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row before I send off a complaint). I also diligently followed the one page of model specific directions that came with the sliders.
Good luck with the Duck shoot mate.
 

FZ1inNH

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I know the Uncaged sliders came with replacement bolts that, when compared to the stock bolts, were the same depth per side. Even if they shipped two of the shorter bolts, since you installed the shorter side first, this one should have been fine. It would have been the longer side (with a shorter bolt) that should have stripped that way. Sounds like the less expensive method to fix this is to use the fix driver145 suggested which is a great idea!
 

kvanderploeg

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I just put these same T-Rex sliders on my wife's '07 FZ6 and didn't have any problems. I didn't torque them with a torque wrench, but rather by feel. I don't tend to trust torque wrenches in aluminum, at least not the cheap ones that I have. I think I have a better feel for what kind of tightness there needs to be. A healthy dose of Loctite won't hurt either. Sorry to hear about your experience.

Kent
 

Raid The Revenge

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<Elm calms down>

Damn. I really need to go on a quest for the framesliders. I think my best place to start will be in Europe. That's where they're called, "Racing Bobbins." Sounds like that girl with the umbrella?
 
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