How to run in a new motor

I'm 400km into my new FZ6N and thought I'd ask the communities how one should run in the motor. I ask before I get too far into the first 1000km.

I've heard (like usual) two stories. Keep the revs low (under 8k), giving it variety without sticking at one figure

Then there are others who say to give it a thrashing to teach the motor.

To me, the first mostly makes sense with the occasional fang (bit of both worlds above)

Make sure you vary the throttle often. Long idleing is NOT GOOD.

I prefer lots of heat cycles (run it, let it cool down, run it again).

I change the oil/filter within 50 miles and again at the recomended mileage( its cheap insurance fi you plan on keeping the bike). DO NOT SIT IN TRAFFIC with the engine idleing, just turn it off (if safe).

I did a semi- Motoman break in method on my FJR (the FZ6 I bought used-already broken it) and ran it pretty hard. The redline on the FJR is considerably lower than the FZ, (9K RPM) so I ran it to approx 8K RPM. Its never burned a drop of oil since new and no internal engine problems (TPS re-call-unrelated).

I don't think I'd run the FZ to 14,000 RPM but some short, fairly hard accelerations help seat the rings and won't hurt anything.

DO NOT USE FULL SYNTHETIC OIL( or semi synthetic) until fully broken in.
I'd wait until at least 5,000 miles personally before switching..

The first 100 miles are the most important (IMHO) so your probably past that already. Varying the RPM's still at this point still wouldn't hurt...

The engine is very well built and shouldn't have a problem no matter how you break it in. With that said, my 07 FZ was broken in by a teenager learning to ride, ridng very slow, motor getting hot, low RPM's (ahhhh) however it doesn't burn a drop of oil either and runs very good. I did change the oil and filter as soon as I took ownership of it...

Congrats on the bike, ride safe...

I totally agree with your take and what you said. TownsendsFJR1300 said it all.
Irregardless of how you run it, the important thing is to let it warm up! (Low revs until it is up to operating temperature) My Fazer sees 100 mph or more each time that I ride it but I ALWAYS let it get up to operating temperature before I turn any appreciable revs. (It has never used any oil) The fist several miles are most important. I once read where some engineer from General Motors said: It's not the miles that break an engine in - it's the heat-up and cool-down cycles that are important. I suppose these cycles let the dissimilar metals and their associated gaskets and fasteners "mate up" for a long and happy life of many years together. You're on the right track. Don't worry, just enjoy!

TownsendsFJR1300 said:

DO NOT USE FULL SYNTHETIC OIL( or semi synthetic) until fully broken in.
I'd wait until at least 5,000 miles personally before switching..

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I usually agree with most of your advise, but in this case I have to point something out: there is nothing wrong with using synthetic oil for a break in period. Several car and motorcycle manufacturers ship straight from the factory with synthetic oils.

Shamus McFeeley said:

I usually agree with most of your advise, but in this case I have to point something out: there is nothing wrong with using synthetic oil for a break in period. Several car and motorcycle manufacturers ship straight from the factory with synthetic oils.

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Yes they do and most new engines are not like the old one's that take much more breaking in...

The synthetic's work extremly well and using it on a new engine (IMHO) prevents or at least slows the piston rings from seating fully. The gear box, clutch, etc, isn't nearly as critical as the rings/bore. That's the reason for the various RPM's when new. Once/if the bore is glazed over from improper break in, you'll probably have an oil burner.

I'd rather dump regular oil at 50 miles (and see all the nice silver particles come out and again at the factory recommended mileage then leave them floating around for 5,000 miles with synthetic.. But thats just my opinion...

And yes, I agree with deeptekki and forgot, let it warm up!!!

The most important part of the break in process is going to be how well the rider controls his/her right wrist, and RPMs are very important in that process.
While the break in process is not as severe as it was for engines 15+ years ago, we know that it still exists, because our owners manual tells us so. The machining and bore honing processes have changed over time, but popular opinion remained the same. The problem I find is that many of the truths from that era have carried over into today, where they are now myths.

If anything, synthetic oil should provide a better break in process due to the fact that it will maintain viscosity and resist shear better than conventional oil, while still allowing your ring(s) to bores(s) clearance(s) wear in. Cost is always going to be a factor, so a synthetic oil change after 100 miles is going to be much more expensive than using conventional oil. There is no reason at all to let any oil stay in your motorcycle for 5,000 miles, especially if you have a shared sump.

Although this refers to marine applications, this explains it all very clearly:
Bore Glazing

I agree with most of your post however the bike (at least in the US) come's with regular oil, not synthetic, from the factory.

The manual, gives criteria RPM's, etc on break in based upon how the bike was delivered (with non-synthetic oil).

I stand by statement as I respect what you believe.

To the original poster, do your research and decide for yourself.

Re: Another opinion. . . .

Something that was mentioned breifely in here which is equally important for long engine life. . . .

- Warm it but not for too long - maybe 4 minutes and ride so everything comes up to temp and it doesn't run too rich for too long. Cold engines run rich which means more fuel is being added to the burn which rinses the cylinder and piston of oils.

- Vary the throttle, no steady states. Oil slings in patterns at various RPM's. Changing the RPM, throws oil into more places and provides more uniform cooling.

- DON'T LUG A NEW ENGINE! This increases the load on the piston skirt/cylinder wall, increases cylinder wear, increases wrist pin and connecting rod bearing loads, and it offers little cooling. An engine that is rev'd through the gears gets more oil and engine coolant circulation plus better lubrication to all parts.

- As stated, allow it warm before tach'ng it at 10k!

The rest is up to you!

IMO: Change the oil in the first 250 miles, then again at 600. Get the particles out of circulation and cheap Dino oil is fine for this.
It's OK to Rev it. I personally wouldn't take it too 14k, but an occasional short run to 10 or 11 after its got 50miles on it is OK. No sustained high RPM!
By 250miles, I'd have it 12. My logic is parts do stretch. If your intent later in life is to tach it at the Redline then work your way up there slowly. What you don't want to do is never take it over 6K for 4000miles and then hammer it 14K because its "broken in" and expect everything to be OK. Use some common sense. Weight lifters don't pick up 500lbs on day one. You build up to maximum potential. Hint, its just an analogy! . . .



* Lug - "lugging" the engine as riding with the RPMs below the engine's optimal (or most efficient) power band. Riding in too high of gear such as to cause hesitation or bucking. Pulling hills in 5th and 6th gear at low speeds like 40mph.. .. .. These are all hard on new engines and transmissions. . . .

not to high jack this thread but i just bought a 2008 fz6 with 200 miles on it. Based on what you said i should change the oil at 250 miles. What should i change the oil to; the normal oil or the break in oil? and what weight oil to use also?