Oxford Hot Grips

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Bit the bullet after this morning's chilly ride. Thought I'd post a few pics and details.

Packaging is great as is the instructions. The grips are a tad oversize in internal diameter so you can slip them on easily and test your lining up before gluing on. The way I've positioned them is the only way I can see them working whilst clearing everything. I wanted to have the protruding section underneath, but it hits your thumb.

I was impressed with how discreet it looks compared to the older version of these (with the rotary switch).

I've only installed the grips at the moment, just customising the switch mount and installing the relay so should be done tomorrow. Will post more pics then, and a ride review after I give them a workout. Can't wait!
 
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Wolfman

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Bit the bullet after this morning's chilly ride. Thought I'd post a few pics and details.

Packaging is great as is the instructions. The grips are a tad oversize in internal diameter so you can slip them on easily and test your lining up before gluing on. The way I've positioned them is the only way I can see them working whilst clearing everything. I wanted to have the protruding section underneath, but it hits your thumb.

I was impressed with how discreet it looks compared to the older version of these (with the rotary switch).

I've only installed the grips at the moment, just customising the switch mount and installing the relay so should be done tomorrow. Will post more pics then, and a ride review after I give them a workout. Can't wait!

You can mount the switching unit on your bars...

View attachment 29293

:thumbup:

Dont glue on your grips...you dont need to...better to secure them with wire...like you do with race bike grips...Then you can transfer the grips to another set of bars...

Once they are glued, you cannot get them off without damaging the heating coil...
 
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Bikebiz

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Hey thanks man, I was actually thinking using that mount but off the brake reservior. But looks like it would fit well on the left as you've done.

Hey doesn't your left thumb hit the protruding rubber/wire section there?
 

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Dont glue on your grips...you dont need to...better to secure them with wire...like you do with race bike grips...Then you can transfer the grips to another set of bars...

Damn, about 20mins too late :)
 

Wolfman

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Hey thanks man, I was actually thinking using that mount but off the brake reservior. But looks like it would fit well on the left as you've done.

Hey doesn't your left thumb hit the protruding rubber/wire section there?

Nope, that "wire" is actually underneath the switchblock, and out of reach...it's just the angle of the photo that is misleading your eye!

Damn, about 20mins too late :)

Dont worry, i found out the hard way too....they should say something about it in the instructions....

one more tip...wire them up properly, so they go off like they say they do when you take the keys out the ignition...otherwise they stay on while bike is parked, if you dont turn them off manually before turning off the bike...

result will be a flat battery! another one learnt the hard way....

:thumbup:
 

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Cool. According to what I've read, I simply use a 12VDC auto relay and wire it inline with the power, and then connected to a switching power supply from either the headlight or whatever I can find up front.
 

alanrim

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Cool. According to what I've read, I simply use a 12VDC auto relay and wire it inline with the power, and then connected to a switching power supply from either the headlight or whatever I can find up front.

You have the naked so no need for a relay, you can pick up the supply to the headlight near the headlight relay, and run the heated grip wiring straight from this. The headlight relay is rated for twin headlights, so with the naked the relay and wiring has enough capacity for the heated grips.

I bought some connectors, broke into the headlight circuit and soldered a fused flying lead into the loom. I made the flying lead is the right length to lay the connector in the thin bit of the underseat tray (near shock). The heated grip wiring then plugs into this connector. Any problems with the grips or if I want to power something under my seat I can just unplug the heated grip wiring.
 
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Cloggy

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This is where mine was mounted:


IMG_1964.JPG



Unfortunately the controller broke after a year and a half and the dealer and Oxford replaced it free of charge, they moved it to the same place wolfman has it fitted, but I'm not going to complain as it was done for free :thumbup:
 
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Well managed to finish the install. After trying a few dozen times with loom routing and positioning, it dawned on me that there could be enough space on the dash bracket to mount the controller.

There's JUST enough room for it, so in she went. Looking nice and factory now, loving it. Thanks for the info on the wiring - I just connected direct to the battery so will go in and sus out the headlight wire now. Cheers.

PS the biggest issue of the installation was where to store all the extra length of looms they give you. Because the battery is up front, you only need really short runs. I may shorten the power loom once I tap switching power.
 
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My multimeter is out of batteries and takes a strange one, can anyone tell me if they know which I tap? I'm guessing striped brown wire on the very left hand one but can't confirm......
 

Wolfman

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Man, you must have small hands...is the controller hard to get to, where you have it?

:thumbup:
 

alanrim

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My multimeter is out of batteries and takes a strange one, can anyone tell me if they know which I tap? I'm guessing striped brown wire on the very left hand one but can't confirm......

Green wire when it is near relay, can't remember which relay it is, but think it was over to right hand end.


*EDIT*

Just looked at your picture, it is the green wire coming out of the third relay from left.
 
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Bikebiz

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J - haven't tried the buttons with gloves yet but seem easier to access (and are larger) than the dash buttons. Hopefully should be right.
 

cambjones

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You have the naked so no need for a relay, you can pick up the supply to the headlight near the headlight relay, and run the heated grip wiring straight from this. The headlight relay is rated for twin headlights, so with the naked the relay and wiring has enough capacity for the heated grips.

I bought some connectors, broke into the headlight circuit and soldered a fused flying lead into the loom. I made the flying lead is the right length to lay the connector in the thin bit of the underseat tray (near shock). The heated grip wiring then plugs into this connector. Any problems with the grips or if I want to power something under my seat I can just unplug the heated grip wiring.

Hey Alanrim, you don't have any pics of this do you by any chance... I am a complete muppet when it comes to electrics.

I have a naked FZ6 so I want to do exactly what you have done here, but I don't know how to "brake into the headlight circuit and soldered a fused flying lead into the loom"

I looked in the manual but it didn't seem to have any wiring diagrams.

Thanks for any help/pic anyone might have that shows how to do this...!!
 

alanrim

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Sorry don't have the FZ anymore.

Look at post #12 the picture shows the headlight relay, which is the third from left. See the chunky green wire, that is the switched wire that powers the headlight circuit.

I bought some connectors the same as used on battery optimisers and the heated grips. They are often known as Tamiya connectors, like these Tamiya Connectors x3 Pair - Male/Female on eBay (end time 23-Dec-10 21:15:24 GMT) you can also get them at Maplin in UK. I also bought some two core flex from an automotive store, and some self amalgamating tape.

I stripped a bit of the wiring loom sheath to allow me to get to a bit more of the green wire.

Using a sharp knife I stripped a short section of insulation from the wire.

The feed wire that comes with the heated grips, I cut the red ring off and left a short length of red wire to allow the fuse to sit near the relays, the black wire I connected to a bolt in the frame somewhere to the left of the relays.

The wires from the fuse and frame I cut to neatly reach into the section of the under seat tray on the left of the bike, to these wires I fitted a tamiya connector. The red wire was soldered to the green headlight wire and insulated with some insulation tape, the loom and new fuse were affixed using the self amalgamating tape.

I now had a connector under the seat that became powered when the headlight was on.

I made up a lead using the two core flex to route along the frame and up to the heated grip controller. This lead had the corresponding tamiya connectors to plug in under the seat, and to the heated grip controller.

I used sticky back tiewrap bases to keep the cable route in place.

Great thing is that if you want to take the grips off just unplug under the seat and the bike is almost back to standard.
 

cambjones

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Thanks Alanrim!!! that is really helpful. I think I understand what you did. I'll give it a go and see what I can achieve!!

I really appreciate the detail you went into!!!

Cheers mate!
 

cambjones

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OK I had a look under the seat of my FZ6N and.... :( it looks nothing like that pic above... mine is a complete mess.. I think mainly because of the Power Commander (stuff) that make all the connections look a mess.. I could not find the fat green wire... but may be because it is so Fing cold today.

Anyway I'll have another crack tomorrow and maybe post a pic of my 'mess'

I feel so inept... need to look to my inner man skills.
 

alanrim

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Take the seat off then remove the cap head bolt that holds the left hand cover, remove the cover and you will find the relays
 
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