Koso Gauge

I am finished rebuilding a 2005 FZ6 and I can't figure out how to install my new Koso gauge. The bike was wreaked by a previous owner so I have had to guess on assembling all of the plastics, headlight/fairing, repair the tank, buy a new gauge, and service it.

Everything is done but the gauge. I have seen the horrible diagram that is supposed to be in the back of the manual (which is on order). The problem is that my wires are different. Just about none of the colors seem to match up.

If someone here who has done a Koso gauge could basically make my life easy and list what color wire to which one between the bike and meter you'd be a life saver. :bow: Trying to have it ready for my first poker run on Saturday, but that only leaves me tomorrow afternoon to figure out these wires. I will try to upload some pictures to show what I'm working with.

Also, how exactly did you guys put the magnets into the brake disk? Has anyone tried putting it in the rear disk? Any reason why it would be a bad idea?

I've rebuilt and gotten everything fixed so far thanks to all the info everyone has posted. Sorry I haven't posted before, but I've been lurking around here and learning for the past 3-4 months. I also added a pic of the bike as it is now. Had to patch the tank since the dents were so bad that it pierced holes in it, and every piece of plastic was cracked or in pieces.

Paging Wavex, please report to this this thread immediately.

Ha Ha! I actually PM'd him with the link to this thread and asked for help.

I hope I'm not breaking any rules or anything like that.

Almost forgot to mention, I PM'd him before anyone responded because it was one of his threads that made me even realize Koso was an option.

I was about to spend almost as much with an OEM replacement and was searching this site like always when I was fortunate to find his messages. It pays to use the F*n search button! I tried to search for info on the wires, but that weird diagram is all I could find and was mostly lost. I'm an IT consultant and know wiring and circuit boards, but this one has me confused.

If anyone can help me by tomorrow afternoon with even a suggestion I would be grateful.

PM me any other questions

I am finished rebuilding a 2005 FZ6 and I can't figure out how to install my new Koso gauge. The bike was wreaked by a previous owner so I have had to guess on assembling all of the plastics, headlight/fairing, repair the tank, buy a new gauge, and service it.

Everything is done but the gauge. I have seen the horrible diagram that is supposed to be in the back of the manual (which is on order). The problem is that my wires are different. Just about none of the colors seem to match up.

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The gauge included a orange/yellow sheet with what each wire on the koso gauge is suppose to be spliced to correct? Mine was, if not you can find it on Koso's site.

If someone here who has done a Koso gauge could basically make my life easy and list what color wire to which one between the bike and meter you'd be a life saver. :bow: Trying to have it ready for my first poker run on Saturday, but that only leaves me tomorrow afternoon to figure out these wires. I will try to upload some pictures to show what I'm working with.

Click to expand...

Luckily for you I found this wonderful image a while back.

Note: The FZ6 column is all correct. For the koso side just match what your gauge is. So on the yellow/orange sheet find what the wire coming from the gauge is and match up. This image may be 100% correct for yours I have a different model koso on my fz6 so I had to change up some things. Double check

Also, how exactly did you guys put the magnets into the brake disk? Has anyone tried putting it in the rear disk? Any reason why it would be a bad idea?

Click to expand...

The magnets go into the "hex" type bolts on the brake disc, should be six I think. The magnet senor is mounted to the disc break caliper bolts. As for using it on the rear the wire that comes with it isn't long enough but you could easily extend it. I don't see why it wouldn't work. My koso gauge lets me choose wheel circumference so it should be fine on the rear also.

I've rebuilt and gotten everything fixed so far thanks to all the info everyone has posted. Sorry I haven't posted before, but I've been lurking around here and learning for the past 3-4 months. I also added a pic of the bike as it is now. Had to patch the tank since the dents were so bad that it pierced holes in it, and every piece of plastic was cracked or in pieces.

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Great job so far!

Edit: Also when splicing if you want to save room just expose the wire (idk technical term) and twist them together and add some electrical tape. Solder if you wanna go even further.

Hell yes!, Im going to need this for later this year! Wavex talked me into buying a koso earlier, I will get one in July.

Cool, I don't need to help LOL

OP let us know if you have more issues...

Wavex said:

Cool, I don't need to help LOL
Ha ha! Figured the guy that gave me the idea for an after market is also a little too much like myself! Of course if that were so, then you and me both work like a slave when it comes to what is needed and badly wanted...


OP let us know if you have more issues...

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Most of those wires in the pic seem so match up, but I don't think all of them do. I could be wrong though. I will post pics of the process and if they are right, then awsome. If not, I will post my exact 2005 FZ6 model from the bike itself as well as pics of the wiring harness assembly proceess itself.

I know I haven't earned a leg to stand on at this site, but I think I have a few things to contribute. I was/am a respected member of an austrailian based site based on my old Honda silverwing and they also focus on the old CB500/650's. I have to credit them because between them and my ASE certs, I had to do something I haven't located here to get the FZ6 running again.

The bike sat for a long time and what I did get from there was that a bike running at red line of 12,000 RPM will likely not have a stator that functions in capacity to recharge the battery until 6K + RPM. Someone here said the same so I installed a new Gel battery and recharged. No joy. Did other things, but ultimitely, the trick was to take the throttle body off and try to turn the engine over. I noticed that half the valves were not moving. I immediately suspected a lack of compression. Tore it down and found that there was gasoline varnish and general crap built up and sludge held half the exhause valves open. After a cleaning, it fired up and screamed. I'm still hearing a weird squicking that stops when I twist the throttle, but not sure if it's another lack of use issue or maybe a cylinder rubbing against that engine block.

I have not even had time to finish the wiring because of other personal issues. Just got fired/laid off yesterday for the first time in my life. I have had to move everything from my works shop to my house and haen't checked the wires yet . I will post an update tomorrow I hope.

Thanks a million times to Brad!!!
I want to give proper creds but not sure how to do the whole "thanks" thing yet. I will get to it, but work, money, and survival are more importnat at the moment. I may have a lot of time on my hands, so either way I will be back shortly and try to show my appreciation.

RedsReboot said:

Most of those wires in the pic seem so match up, but I don't think all of them do. I could be wrong though. I will post pics of the process and if they are right, then awsome. If not, I will post my exact 2005 FZ6 model from the bike itself as well as pics of the wiring harness assembly proceess itself.

Click to expand...

What I did was just twist tied them and tested with the bike before electrical tape and other finishing ect. The oil light "may" be wrong so take note. Wavex had the same prob if I remember correctly? I just bypassed it cause I check my oil regularly. When I wired it up it showed "low" all the time when I knew for a fact it had enough. This was with a different model koso tho.

Rest on the fz6 side worked perfectly and fine with the gauge.

Brad said:

What I did was just twist tied them and tested with the bike before electrical tape and other finishing ect. The oil light "may" be wrong so take note. Wavex had the same prob if I remember correctly? I just bypassed it cause I check my oil regularly. When I wired it up it showed "low" all the time when I knew for a fact it had enough. This was with a different model koso tho.

Rest on the fz6 side worked perfectly and fine with the gauge.

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Thanks Brad, that means a lot more than you think because if I run into the same oil warning light issue I might have thrown a fit considering my personal frustration right now.

Same reason I won't hop back on a bike since it's been about 2 years since I laid down my old cruizer. My head is too much of a distracted mess to hop on a bike and not be at risk. I also noticed that this bike behaves very differently. Anyone who reads this and has input please chime in, but regardless of it being a long time since I've even been riding. I have definitely noticed this bike wants to go faster on it's own. What I mean is that I don't even have to touch the throttle to get it going. It starts doing more than rolling if I simply let off the clutch very gently. Maybe this is one of my new,"' get used to the fact that this is one of those "Rice Rocket"differences"'' (Imean no disrespect and will apologize if I offend anyone) moments, but this bike in first gear with no hand on the throttle rolls more than twice as fast as my old cruiser!

Maybe it has just been too long since I've been riding, but even starting out with my old cruiser and zero experience, that bike seemed fairly natural to me since I grew up with and still prefer manual transition vehicles. This bike seems to feel like it wants to run away like a madman in first and I barely felt comfortable pulling my legs up to the pegs without a straight travel path on smooth pavement. Anyone can see the mud on the tires in my pics and guess it's not on good terrain at the moment, but I still worry that I should look at the cables or something to be sure I'm not about to kill myself.

Also, just a quick "yes,no, or use the search button", anyone have feedback on using synthetic royal purple in the bike? I know it's asking for it to run my old silverwing with synthetic because the clutch plates are wet and the synthetic lub ends up making the bike slip out of gear in a dangerous way. So with these bikes it's ok? They don't share a similar lubrication system? By all means, this is mostly a stresed out rant and please just point me to a linked thread if it's been answered. No need to remind me if I'm being an dumb*ss, but please correct me if it's already explained. I may have missed it with my own personal issues and not thinking clearly...